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It looks like I'll have the engine out this winter/spring for a clutch + flywheel replacement. I've read a bunch of other threads, and I've assembled a list of "while you're in there" items. Am I missing any other logical (or related) maintenance tasks?
NOTE: I have recently replaced plugs, wires, caps, rotors, fuel filter, engine mounts, belts.
My "To Do" list:
Clutch Kit: Disk, PP, Release Bearing (w/ new screw hw)
DM Flywheel (w/ new screw hw)
Crankshaft seal (rear)
Needle bearings (for clutch release fork)
Oil pressure sender (mine is dead)
Hydraulic Lifters (I'm getting some intermittent clacking after sitting for a while)
The phrase "while I'm in there" can be a concern for you wallet.
Unlike older 911 one does not need to remove the engine to service a clutch or transmission on a 993, saving a huge number of labor hours for the job. None of the other things you have on your list compel an engine removal. Removing an engine involves disturbing lots of stuff that may not be best disturbed, fuel line, electrical harness, vacuum lines, oil lines, etc.
If someone is doing the work for you be sure to get a quote that breaks out the parts cost and labor hours by task so you can tell that it all seems reasonable.
Andy
The shop I'm using works on a lot of air-cooled 911's, including race prep and full rebuilds. I did ask if engine removal is strictly necessary. While the clutch job can technically be done without an engine drop, the removal allows them to save time on the installation and lets them better assess other related items that may/may not need attention. They said it allows them to ensure the job is done 100% properly, and I believe that this is their goal.
And to reinforce the value: their labor charge with the engine drop was less than another indie shop that wanted to do the job with the engine in place.
Clutch slave is a good idea as posted. Your list looks pretty complete. Engine bay sound mat perhaps and of course any rubber fuel lines that are accessible.
The master is way easier to change at a later date than the slave as it sits under the pedal assembly. I don't think it's necessary to do it at the same time, I think people do because they want that silky smooth clutch pedal (and it's not outrageously priced either). I did both at the same time this summer and it's been a great improvement.
Good list. I agree with uniquenamehere - clutch master is easily done at a later date if needed. Also +1 to the recommendation to replace the sound pad. I wish I would have done that when my engine was out.
Having actually removed an engine on a 993, I don't think there is a meaningful increase in the risk of damaging the items Andy mentions, especially if a well qualified tech is doing the work. Porsche designed the engine to come out fairly easily. It's not like there are a lot of single use plastic clips or anything like that. Even wanna-be mechanics like me can do it on jack stands without breaking stuff.
Agreed. Master cylinder is not necessary at this time, per se, and has nothing to do with benefiting from pulling the motor and trans. That silky smooth clutch is most likely to be gained from the clutch replacement itself, that you are already doing anyway. Just went through this on my motor/trans drop. Master not replaced, and clutch feel is like new.
Yes this is a slippery slope because once you have the motor and trans out, there are so many things that are easy to get to that are otherwise much more troublesome. You want to leverage all the labor to R&R the motor/trans.
"To Do" list potential additions/clarifications in blue:
Clutch Kit: Disk, PP, Release Bearing (w/ new bolt hw)
DM Flywheel (w/ new bolt hw)
Crankshaft seal (rear)
Needle bearings (for clutch release fork shaft)
Clutch fork
Clutch fork shaft
Guide tube
Trans input shaft seal (behind the guide tube)
Slave cylinder and flex hose
Oil pressure sender (mine is dead)
Breather housing gasket
Breather hoses
Hydraulic Lifters (I'm getting some intermittent clacking after sitting for a while)
Valve Cover Gaskets + hw
Valve adjustment for those without hydraulic lifters.
Timing Chain box cover Gaskets (after the just the covers, this gets much more involved)
Power Steering Pump Belt
Engine pad?
Sensors - Cylinder head temp, flywheel (aka crank)
Powder coat engine tin? (sliding down the slope....)
And so on...
These are just a few thoughts, but it can go on much further. I basically did about everything one could on my 3.6 motor recently while I had it out to address cylinder base seals.
Depending on how many miles are on your car, it's a good opportunity to remove the axles, install new CV boots, and re-pack with fresh grease. Pretty easy job and the boot kits are cheap. I did this when I R&R'd the engine.
11-28-2017, 12:23 AM
While You're In There: Clutch Replacement Edition
