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Old 10-31-2017, 01:49 PM
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Cactus
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Default Valve Cover Gasket/Timing Chain Gasket/Hardware

Just curious if there is a kit with all the gaskets and new hardware or do you have to buy everything ala carte?
Old 10-31-2017, 03:06 PM
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P-daddy
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Ryan- IIRC Autohauz or Pelican has a kit you can buy with mostly all but not everything. I wanted all OEM so I sourced all the parts a la carte through Sonnen.
Old 10-31-2017, 03:48 PM
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jscott82
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I was advised to use Wrightwood racing viton gaskets over OE.

Patrick Motorsports sells them, I think they are 2 separate kits, 1 kit for valve covers, 1 kit for timing chain.

Just my 2c...
Old 10-31-2017, 07:55 PM
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95_993
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Curious about doing timing cover gaskets this winter as well. I'd like to try doing it without pulling the crank pulley. I've heard it can be done.
Old 11-01-2017, 08:05 PM
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this thread died a quick death. Guess its a la carte....
Old 11-01-2017, 08:24 PM
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P-daddy
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VC Bolts: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/90006723802

VC Gasket Set: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/99310590200

Timing Cover Gasket Set: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/100912180

Or contact your trusted shade tree wrench
Old 11-01-2017, 11:54 PM
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Originally Posted by P-daddy
VC Bolts: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/90006723802

VC Gasket Set: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/99310590200

Timing Cover Gasket Set: http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/100912180

Or contact your trusted shade tree wrench
Thank you sir
Old 11-02-2017, 03:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 95_993
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Curious about doing timing cover gaskets this winter as well. I'd like to try doing it without pulling the crank pulley. I've heard it can be done.
Why? - the crank pulley is a piece of cake to remove and install, and with everything out of the way, you can property torque all the holdown nuts.

Oh, a few hints as well:

- you will have some of the nuts come with the studs when taking the chain covers off. Remove the nuts and install the studs back with locktite. You do not want to install them like you took them out, you will be forcing the stud to turn inside the rubber seal and the torque might not be right.
- get a GOOD torque wrench, hopefully calibrated - 7ft-lbs is really small. I have a small Snap-on that I use.
- I use a light coat of Curil-T on the gaskets as added protection because often the channels the gasket runs in on the covers are rough, so everything helps

Cheers,

Mike
Old 11-02-2017, 07:50 AM
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Thanks Mike
Old 11-04-2017, 12:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike J
Why? - the crank pulley is a piece of cake to remove and install, and with everything out of the way, you can property torque all the holdown nuts.

Oh, a few hints as well:

- you will have some of the nuts come with the studs when taking the chain covers off. Remove the nuts and install the studs back with locktite. You do not want to install them like you took them out, you will be forcing the stud to turn inside the rubber seal and the torque might not be right.
- get a GOOD torque wrench, hopefully calibrated - 7ft-lbs is really small. I have a small Snap-on that I use.
- I use a light coat of Curil-T on the gaskets as added protection because often the channels the gasket runs in on the covers are rough, so everything helps

Cheers,

Mike
What Mike said...try to get a good quality torque wrench, where the desired torque spec falls within +/- 20% of the operating parameter; such as this 40-200 in/lb wrench.

7 ft/lbs = 84 in/lbs.

https://www.ebay.com/i/112615945502?...D1354298005961
Old 11-04-2017, 01:01 PM
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Question on the cam-chain cover gasket project, gents:

A wrench (whom I don't know well at all) told me that one doesn't just replace the housing gasket, but a "seal" or such inside as well, as this is "required" since it's this inner "seal" that's likely doing most of the leaking, and thus adding to the work the housing seal is trying to do?? Can someone shed light on this for me as I've never had to go in there? I'm contemplating getting this done so clarity on this would be greeeaaaat! TIA guys!

Edward
Old 11-04-2017, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Edward
Question on the cam-chain cover gasket project, gents:

A wrench (whom I don't know well at all) told me that one doesn't just replace the housing gasket, but a "seal" or such inside as well, as this is "required" since it's this inner "seal" that's likely doing most of the leaking, and thus adding to the work the housing seal is trying to do?? Can someone shed light on this for me as I've never had to go in there? I'm contemplating getting this done so clarity on this would be greeeaaaat! TIA guys!

Edward
Hmm interesting. You should clarify with this wrench which seal specifically. I’m thinking this one here in the photo he may be referring to. I did the 2 cover seals. Make sure the mating surfaces are smooth and clean.


Old 11-27-2017, 11:43 PM
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when doing the timing chain gaskets, is it important to replace everything in the "kit"? Or just the gaskets themselves?

Old 11-28-2017, 04:54 PM
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At least the Rubber O-rings, I did mine without removing the crank pulley, used the finger torque wrench, but I do have a super expensive German mini torque wrench.
Old 11-28-2017, 11:31 PM
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Originally Posted by P-daddy
Hmm interesting. You should clarify with this wrench which seal specifically. I’m thinking this one here in the photo he may be referring to. I did the 2 cover seals. Make sure the mating surfaces are smooth and clean.
The o-ring and seal on the backside of the timing box where the cam enters is a known culprit as well as the gasket where the box mates with the case. And yes, the Wrightwood kits have the best collection of seals, gaskets and o-rings.

It's all thoroughly described in the link below. Note, that removing the timing boxes to get to these o-rings and gaskets will require re-timing the cams.

I borrowed some diagrams from that thread for illustrative purposes.

https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...t-o-rings.html




Last edited by Super90; 11-28-2017 at 11:47 PM.


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