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Intro
This is my upgrades, repairs, and restoration log I have done on my 97 993 Coupe.
I am an engineer, builder, and creator of things. I grew up working on 2 and 4 stroke dirt bikes and modded my cars when I was younger and had time. I have rebuilt a few engines, so not afraid of wrenching. Back then all I had was shop manuals. How different it is now with great boards like this help us amateur hacks to get dirty jobs done. My current project is a well sorted and cared for 97 993 Coupe "driver" I picked up locally this summer. More about her here: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ownership.html https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...e90f874fb6.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fbc75aa780.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...746fd3ddc3.jpg Last Update: 993RS heater blower delete/heater bypass upgrade Projects Done:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c938e4721f.jpg Change Log: 2018 Sept 27: Added pics from Elephant bushing install, strut and arb removal Oct 2: Added pics from PSS9 front strut, front control arm, and M030 ARB install Oct 7: Added pics from PSS9 rear strut and toe control arm install Oct 8: Added pics from Canonball Coffee Run Nov 22: Added pics from PS belt install Nov 23: Added pics from PS reservoir replacement and PS fluid flush Jan 9: Added pics from Rear Suspension Overhaul, Tie Rods, Motor Mounts, Cosmoline Clean Up April 9: Added pics from head unit and component speaker install May 18: Added pics from clock spring repair/install 2019 March 4: Added pics from spark plug wire replacement March 18: Added pics from clutch master and slave cylinder replacement |
Control arm repair- Step 1: Remove control arm
I started with repairing my control arm bushings with a the install of a new set as I had an annoying 50mph shimmy that got pretty old after a few days driving her on my commute to work.
Tools needed to remove the control arm 19MM socket 19MM wrench 18MM socket 18MM wrench 10MM socket 10MM wrench Breaker bar or a 1/2" ratchet Ball joint separator Procedure: 1. Turn your steering rack so you can get easier access to the front of the control arm https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...0a667aac6e.jpg 2. Remove the plastic air deflector attached to the control arm with a 10MM socket and wrench https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...13411e5c0d.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...54803f57f4.jpg 3. Remove the nut that attaches the knuckle to the control arm with a 18MM wrench https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...46044c2420.jpg 4. Remove the bolts that attach the control arm to the frame with a 19MM socket. I used a 1/2" ratchet as the bolts were torqued on pretty tight https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...4239df23ab.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b86a9475da.jpg 5. Detach the knuckle from the control arm with a ball joint separator. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d49f6034c0.jpg 6. Wiggle the control arm and will come out. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...54e00383c0.jpg |
Control arm repair: Step 2: Remove bushings
Getting the bushings out was a PIA. The instructions by Elephant and FDM for the Walrod PU bushings make it look so easy.
Here are their guides for reference https://www.elephantracing.com/suspe...80%&height=95% http://fdmotorsports.net/Control%20A...%20Install.pdf I would say on the second arm it came out much faster as I figured out what not to do the second time around. I will include some of those tips below that was missing in the above instructions. Tools needed: Propane torch Channel locks Hammer Chisel set Drill and 3/8" bit A beer and a lot of patience!!! 1. Put the control arm in a vise. Heat the steel inner sleeves and use channel locks and twist them off. Like what the instructions say, heat them until the rubber starts smoking. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...aa9572a944.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...848e432e7f.jpg 2. Use the drill and make two 3/8" slots in the rubber 90 degrees apart so that there is a gap from the center to the outer steel ring of the bushing. Then use a saw to take the rubber section out so there is only 3/4 of the bushing is left in the bushing. Initially tried to directly saw into the rubber to get to the outer steel ring per the instructions. This was a futile effort. The drill blasted through the rubber easily down to the outer steel ring in seconds. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b80c596c46.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...64421f6496.jpg Use the jab saw to saw into the outer steel ring almost to the control arm so there is two notches approximately book ending the section you removed from the bushing. I tried to use the hack saw per the instructions and found it too flimsey. The sawzall blade of the jab saw makes the job of cutting out the rubber and cutting into the outer sleeve much faster. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fbdc100cef.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...517fc7b51c.jpg 3. Use the chisel and start to hammer out the 90 degree section out of the bushing. This is where you need extreme patience. Eventually it will curl down easily and once you get the half way the entire bushing will pop out. The craftsman set is nice as it has a few different ones you can use to get the curl going from starting with the small ones to eventually the bigger ones... I found that the 90 degree section was much easier to bang out than just just working on one of the notches that the instructions call out. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...5b0e8d2e22.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ac0fe18382.jpg 4. Use the chisel and hammer away at the lips of the forward bushings per the instructions. With another beer and patience they will come out... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...996da6c744.jpg 5.Success the bushings are finally out! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7d38e2b8f9.jpg |
Control Arm Repair: Step 3: Clean/Polish the arms
Given the bushings and control arms are out I decided to take off the 20 year old cosmoline and try to return the arms to their natural aluminum finish. Since it was the weekend none of the media blasters were open so I used a drill with a fine wire wheel as well as a fine wire brush and some sweat to polish the arms.
I tried different brushes starting with nylon, brass, and eventually steel. The cosmoline is tough and so the fine wire wheel and brush were the only ones that had enough abrasive action to remove the cosmoline. I am pleased with the results. Control arm coated with cosmoline and one without... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...19a48985c1.jpg Both polished... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...a48d2d90b2.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c150bfc9b7.jpg Next up bushing install... |
Great diy and pictures, nice work!
Pro tip - when reinstalling the arms, load the suspension fully before tightening the arms beyond finger tight. Not just to ensure the bushings are oriented correctly but also to ensure the tab stays perfectly slotted into the notch. Loading the front can be tricky on jacks, I ended up rolling the front up on ramps and then jacking the rear up to get enough weight on the front. |
Nice work!
I'm intimately familiar with the joys of replacing these bushings - I've rebuilt a few dozen sets over the last ten years or so... Andreas |
Nice DIY, really helps guys like me who have never attempted this understand what is involved when deciding if they want to do it.
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Since you're also in the bay area, why didn't you let ER handle the bushings by dropping the control arms to their shop?
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Very nicely done and documented!
I may take this on as a winter project. |
Originally Posted by sacman
(Post 14475019)
Since you're also in the bay area, why didn't you let ER handle the bushings by dropping the control arms to their shop?
OR Remove your control arms and ship them along with your (Walrod, (rennlist member) bushing kit to , (AOW162435, Andreas, rennlist member) for old bushing removal, finish, and fitment of new bushings. See bottom of his signature block in post # 6 above. Nice! |
Guys... behind with posting my progress. Here is an update...
Last week attempted to install the Elephant sport bushings with my table vise. Had my first DIY #fail. I used my car jack handle as a lever to crank down my cheapo vise to push the rear bushing in. Well my vise broke from the torque. Luckily it broke on the bolt so was able to recover my vise minus it not being able to open as wide anymore... https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d44c938b0e.jpg After that setback asked Chuck @ Elephant Racing to push in my bushings for me for a nominal service fee. Had him also check out my front ball joints and toe control arm ball joints. He found some issues with them so he installed a new pair of lemforder ball joints along with my bushings, and ordered a new pair of OEM toe control arms. Got some tips and tricks to install the control arms, tie rods, and sway bar bushings so all in all time well spent. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...64fd361248.jpg Here is one of his project cars in his shop... https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7978366c5d.jpg Now that I got my control arms ready, next step is to install my PSS10 kit! |
Nice work! And thank you for sending out the sleeves. :thumbup: Andreas |
While you're attacking this, and if ya don't have one, might wanna strut tower brace. Elephant, Rennline etc have them. :-)
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Step 2: Removing OEM Struts and Anti Roll Bars
The Step by Step PSS10 Installation Guide is great.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...tallation.html A veteran RLister shared with me a Bilstein HD DIY install guide that was also very good. Using those two guides and the Bentley guide made the removal process pretty straight forward. Attached are a few extra steps/hacks I did that were not documented in the guides... 1. Loosening the top hat on the front strut is a big PIA. I used my floor jack handle (the same one that broke my vise) and some sockets to improvise an allen key with a massive breaker bar. This made it really easy to loosen the nut... https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...48e0b6d55b.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...01fa82c01d.jpg 2. Since I had stock struts that were not modded before, the brake lines fed through the strut. In the Bilstein HD DIY guide it shows you how to cut the strut so you can keep the brake lines intact so you don't have to bleed your brakes, which I didn't want to do as I just power flushed and bled my brakes. To do this you need to detach the front drop link from the carrier so you can get the dremel in position to cut the strut. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...cc62ca2db3.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ae3ffbf8f0.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...caa85c9b94.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...fb92dda813.jpg 3. Removing the various plastic bits that attach the brake sensors to the strut is easy to do with a punch and a bent nail. Using those things I was able to get behind the nubbin that held the plastic bits and push it out enough so I can pull out the nubbin with some needle noise pliers. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...3ec3072265.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...ccad98e7ba.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...f3668fb376.jpg 4. Removing the front ARB (anti roll bar) was a bigger PIA. After loosening the brackets that hold it down, I used some WD-40 and through force and perseverance got the bushing out. I started with the passenger side first and then went to the driver side afterward. That was a good decision as the passenger side has more room to get behind the bushing to push it out which helped give enough play in the ARB to push out the driver side one later. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...7561e8d56e.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...62ac96ebd3.jpg 5. I was able to just remove the airbox cover to get to the rear passenger side strut mount. The space it tight, but if you have a ratchet with small teeth it will eventually come out. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...c66b501b09.jpg With all of that done, then following the steps in the PSS10 DIY guide you dissemble the old... https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...d54dc3e8d4.jpg and reassemble the new... https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/rennlis...b1c30cd39f.jpg Now I am ready for the ARB and PSS10 strut install! |
Good progress - nice work!
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