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Possible Tiers of 993 Engine Rebuilding/Upgrading

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Old 08-30-2017, 03:21 PM
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Spyder_Man
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Default Possible Tiers of 993 Engine Rebuilding/Upgrading

As my 993 continues to rack up the miles (nearly 190k) and leak oil, I spend my time wondering just what it will all cost me to drop the engine and get things sorted out. I've been reading various threads here on RL and speaking with a few knowledgeable folks about the myriad options. At a minimum a reseal, top-end job, and clutch/flywheel replacement are needed for my car (plus new plug wires, distributor rebuild, new engine pad...).

I'm wondering if the community here could help distill down these possible options and provide a sense of labor hours and part costs for each tier? For the sake of this thread let's ignore the transmission stuff for right now too since that just adds more variables. And yes I've read plenty on how a transmission regearing adds more performance per $ spent than a 3.8L build, so let's not rehash that here. I'm more interested in getting a sense of the differentials between the costs and resulting performance for the different tiers of possible work.

Tier 1: 3.6L Back to stock - minimum of a reseal and top end (maximum full rebuild) using OEM parts, but keeping it all aimed at stock 3.6L 993 specs.

Tier 2: 3.6L Better than stock - minimum of a reseal and top end (maximum full rebuild) using better than OEM and OEM parts, but keeping it all aimed at stock 3.6L 993 specs.

Tier 3: 3.6L Better than stock with TPC Supercharger - minimum of a reseal and top end (maximum full rebuild) using better than OEM and OEM parts, while also installing a TPC Suppercharger kit.

Tier 4: 3.8L RS-tribute - full rebuild with parts replaced with better than OEM parts to upgrade displacement.

Tier 5+: Trophy's level of engine work - no need to get into that since it's well beyond my (even fantasy) budget and he's already documented it so well is his thread.

Keep in mind my particular 993 is a '95. I know some modifications are easier/harder based on differences in model years. Thanks in advance...
Old 08-30-2017, 03:38 PM
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pp000830
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How about "engine in" find what is really leaking and fix the stuff that drips on the exhaust or puddles on the floor and be done with it. $150 to $400 +/-?
Old 08-30-2017, 03:50 PM
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Spyder_Man
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Originally Posted by pp000830
How about "engine in" find what is really leaking and fix the stuff that drips on the exhaust or puddles on the floor and be done with it. $150 to $400 +/-?
Already did that. What's leaking requires the engine out.
Old 08-30-2017, 04:50 PM
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Kika
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I did roughly a tier 2.5, mostly stock 993 parts, but added RS cams and Steve Weiner ECU flash.

The cost over and above just the rebuild was the cost of the ECU and Rennsport flash. alignment of the timing chains and the beveled edge on the original cams forced me to replace them. No doubt it was a pretty penny, but I am very happy with the results and intend to keep this car for a long time.

I did not have the crank case opened up. Flywheel and clutch had been done previously, so I did not have to get into any of that this time around, although there were a few other miscellaneous items like Idle stabilization valve and some Varioram components that needed replacing.
I anticipated costs for "while you are in there" and other stuff that revealed itself once everything was opened up.

labor hours for the top end was 40 hours. There were some add-ons, like new sound pad, clutch master cylinder and kinematic clutch lever that I also had installed, that were above the 40 hours.
Old 08-30-2017, 05:12 PM
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chsu74
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Originally Posted by Kika
I did roughly a tier 2.5, mostly stock 993 parts, but added RS cams and Steve Weiner ECU flash.
This and should you have additional budget in the future; regear which will be plug and play.
Old 08-30-2017, 05:19 PM
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John McM
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I saw an estimate for Tier one. Labour was 44 hours, of which 15 was taking the engine out and reinstalling it.

If your engine is like my 964, then other costs will be gaskets, rings and head work, which may require some new valves.
Old 08-30-2017, 05:55 PM
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So guessing your "Case Through Bolts" are the culprit?
Old 08-30-2017, 05:56 PM
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Thanks for the responses thus far. Sounds like Kika's 2.5 OEM + RS Cams & chip tuning are a popular approach. How much of a performance gain relative to stock did you experience?
Old 08-30-2017, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Gbos1
So guessing your "Case Through Bolts" are the culprit?
Chain housing gasket o-ring was the diagnosis. Since then it seems like leaking might have increased so there might be some of that too.

I've had the valve cover and chain cover gaskets inspected/replaced.
Old 08-30-2017, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Spyder_Man
Chain housing gasket o-ring was the diagnosis. Since then it seems like leaking might have increased so there might be some of that too.

I've had the valve cover and chain cover gaskets inspected/replaced.
Ah gotcha... well regardless keep us up to date on your solution and place where the work will be performed. Good luck!
Old 08-30-2017, 07:24 PM
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Kika
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Originally Posted by chsu74
This and should you have additional budget in the future; regear which will be plug and play.
the temptation is still there, and if I ever need transmission work, I will more than likely re gear 3-5. I don't see that happening anytime soon however.

Originally Posted by Spyder_Man
Thanks for the responses thus far. Sounds like Kika's 2.5 OEM + RS Cams & chip tuning are a popular approach. How much of a performance gain relative to stock did you experience?
in terms of sheer numbers I don't have any dyno sheets or quantitative numbers, but the overall drivability and fun factor is definitely noticeable. The motor revs freely up to redline, with no hesitation, and the car just wants to get up and go.

Personally, I think a lot of people try and justify making mods based on pure numbers, and I don't think the HP/Torque gains are really that significant, so when trying to convince yourself whether or not the mod is worth it, often times the conclusion is no. You can't quantify fun factor is the problem. All I can say, is that I have no regrets and to me it was well worth the cost.

I have yet to try a blend of race gas, which Steve Weiner tells me, with the RS flash, will make a noticeable difference. Hmmmm. maybe I'll get some for this Sunday's run up to Malibu https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...fee-8-3-a.html
Old 08-30-2017, 07:50 PM
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Late last year, I opted to do a top-end rebuild and replace the sub-par OEM valve guides with superior aftermarket ones.

Once I was gonna be in that deep, I told my mechanic to go ahead and replace every single part that was easier to do with the engine out, any wear item that had never been replaced, every bushing, belt, motor mounts, clutch, spark plug wires, dizzy caps/rotors, new lifters, rebuild the injectors etc etc. Basically anything that needed to be done, was done, and then some.

In the end, he wound up splitting the case and did a complete engine rebuild. The car was brought back to mechanically as new condition.

I would say on your scale this was the most comprehensive Tier 2 job possible.

The car was gone 3 months, and the bill was just about $20K; $10K parts and $10K labor.
Old 09-01-2017, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Kika
I did roughly a tier 2.5, mostly stock 993 parts, but added RS cams and Steve Weiner ECU flash.
This is the smartest approach. It will preserve value and wake things up a bit.

The TPC SC would be a LOT more fun to drive but they don't seem to command the resale value.

Setting aside concerns of resale I would custom fabricate a Rotrex SC. I think the centrifugal SC compliments the 993 well. It's also a lot less demanding on fuel quality.
Old 09-01-2017, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MarinS4
Setting aside concerns of resale I would custom fabricate a Rotrex SC. I think the centrifugal SC compliments the 993 well. It's also a lot less demanding on fuel quality.
At least one 993 has had a Rotrex SC installed: http://www.rotrex.com/Home/Superchar...e-3483ae13eeea





Old 09-01-2017, 02:34 PM
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At this point I think I'm leaning towards the RS Cams/Valves approach along with a top end. Adding a LWFW/MWFW and transmission regearing would be gravy on top.

Now to find some spare thousands of dollars...


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