Kika

Doing the LWFW might make good sense once the motor is out of the car however...and does make a difference, and with the cams is a good mod. Opening up the Transmission is another level.

PS> you have a PM.

oh, and it might take more than just a few....

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

FWIW,....

The very first questions I ask prospective clients asking for more performance are:

1) Whats your budget: how much are you willing to spend?

2) Do you need to maintain emissions compliance?


The answers to those questions is what REALLY determines what is possible to do.

Spyder_Man

1) I'm asking to figure out what to budget for. It will be a while regardless, but it helps me to have a target amount in mind.

2) I'd still have to pass California SMOG checks with OBD 1. I'm sure this will limit the options.

goofballdeluxe

If you're in CA, like me, I can assure you that if you're looking to rebuild a 993 engine and you are not doing it yourself, you're probably looking at least $10K. That's not including any "while you're in there" work or anything else other than the engine rebuild and related items. Any other additional work you'll want to do while the engine is out and you discover new issues or big ticket items like clutch parts need replacing etc., will make that bill rise significantly. Anything fun like 3.8 or RS cams etc adds even more.

AZ Targa

Go with the RS style cams, and the performance chip. I can't really speak to the performance (didn't have the car long before the modifications and it had an old clutch) but the sound of the RS cams and fister II's is amazing! You won't be disappointed.

Martin S.

In my area, CA Central Coast, it's about $1,000 to R&R an engine. Once the engine is out, what a great time to clean up the engine bay, replace the sound insulation, remove any mice nests, etc.

My mechanic at SGS Motorsports in San Luis Obispo, is resistent to fixing leaks with the motor in the car. He takes the motor out, puts it on an engine stand, and does the job right, whatever it takes. He can easily get to areas that would require a contortionist with the engine in the car.

I have a few minor seeps/leaks, but there is no such ting as minor in my vocabulary. Hence, I am having him do mine. I want the motor in my 993 to be " dry as a bone". I'll pay the money to prevent having to live with, "They all leak." Not good enough. I don't want any mini-puddles of oil in my garage. But then again, I am a bit obsessive compulsive.

cgfen

ahhhhhhhhhh so you decided to keep Baby?
smart man.

JPS

What are people's experience with the costs of those tiers?

Mike J

Ahhh, done those quite a few times without dropping the engine - not a big deal. Have to time the cams again but that not an issue with the engine in the car.

At the most 10 hours - since the exhaust/engine carriers/sheet metal/covers/valve covers all have to come off.

NO way is this significant enough to drop the engine and do a rebuild.

Cheers,

Mike

Spyder_Man

Mike J while the leak alone might be fixable without dropping the engine, my 993 has nearly 187k miles on it with no documentation of prior engine rebuild work. I think it's time...

MarinS4

If you're not strongly attached to your car maybe you can sell "as is" and get into another one with less miles. I understand the new one has risks too but I've seen some great deals out there lately for higher mile cars (80k+). I bet you can cover the difference for around 20k and have a car with half the miles. Just something to consider.

Spyder_Man

I've certainly contemplated that route (or even buying a water pumper replacement), but the market in its "as is" condition would likely pay me the same price I paid to get into the car to begin with. Since then I've redone the steering, brakes, suspension, alternator, CVs, etc. I don't want to end up doing all that over again with the next car.

Perhaps I bought it above market given the true state of the vehicle, but what is done is done. At this point I think I'm pretty much convinced that now is the time to drop the engine and get it completely rebuilt.

Tlaloc75

I agree with you here - condition is more important than miles. If you have a car you feel good about, don't trade it for an unknown just because the miles are lower.

Otherwise you will be one of those guys that puts all the time and money into his car so the next guy can enjoy your work instead of you

Spyder_Man

At this point I'm leaning towards a fresh 3.6L with RS cams and larger 96+ intake valves. At the same time adding a LWFW, retrofitting a Varioram intake, replacing my long deceased factory LSD with a new Guards unit, and a new Steve Wong chip to account for all the changes.

I'd love to regear the transmission too but with all that's listed above, I'm sure that I'm beyond my intended budget already.

JPS

What's the variorum cost?