jda407

Did a search and didn't see anything.

It seems that my rear spoiler is no longer operating automatically or manually. However, the warning light for the spoiler is operating as usual.

Any ideas?? My guess that the motor/mechanism that actually moves it up and down has gone bad. Has anyone had this happen?

I question why there is a light on the dash for the spoiler yet it doesn't appear to do anything different when it's not working.

any help would be appreciated

Jim

Greg D.

Ok, just been there and done that ! You could do a search on spoiler and find the pictures I even posted, but even I am too lazy to do so right now ;-)

- First, open the rear lid, and observe the situation. The motor for the spoiler is under the engine lid on the left side, a cable comes out of it and if you follow the cable you will see it leads to the spoiler mechanism under a plastic cover, at the left lid hinge.

- Now, pop the drive cable from the motor - just pull on it. Try the spoiler buttons now. If the motor whines, the problem lies in the mechanism. If the motor is quiet or "troubled" (mine had chunks in it, it'd go up but not down, or sometimes the opposite), check the fuse for it - could be just that ! Still quiet ? it's probably toast ! Call Parts heaven in hayward, Ca, and they can get you a new motor for $200 and change, a lot less than the dealer.

- motor goes bzzzz ? It's probably the mechanism then ! pop the cover protecting the spoiler mechanism, a couple of bolts and clips, easy.... Now with your fingers, or pliers, grab the cable in one hand and use the pliers or fingers from the other hand to attempt to rotate the square end of the disconnected cable (in essence pretend you are the motor, feel free to humm "bzzz" if you please). If that fails to raise or lower the spoiler relatively easily, you're gonna have to disassemble this unit and grease it up or replace it. There is another DIY on this bit, another search will find it...

- meantime, feels free to reach under the dash from the passenger side(we're back in the car now), between the glove box and the console more or less for a grey electronic box. Disconnect the connector going to that box - that'll kill the spoiler light.

you're welcome ;-)

Greg D.

There ya go. Am I nice or what ? ;-)

Something else I forgot. If everything works well, the motor, the spoiler unit etc, it could be a bad contact with those microswitches... Maybe... But I kinda doubt it as they stop movement, not initiate it. Hope you got all you need for a fun 15 minutes of bonding with your car !

PS: don't forget to reconnect the spoiler control unit (the one to get rid of the light) when you are done with your repairs.

http://p-car.com/diy/spoilerdrive/ has a detailed explanation of the drive repair if that's your problem.

jda407

I think that is probably the best response I've ever received here.

Kudo's to your detail and thanks!!!!!!!!!

I anticipate 'bonding' time with the car in the next few days.

Jim

NickC4S

I did the spoiler gearbox repair this weekend. Had the "coffee-grinder" spoiler retraction noise, with spoiler fully operable. Very annoying as I drive my car daily.

Apart from putting a modelling knife through my thumb - 4 stitches - this was a relatively easy repair, thanks to the great DIY write-up on Robin's P-car site. Cause was the rusty, but still (barely) operable ball bearing.

I made sure I had all tools and replacement sealed bearing on hand and was able to complete the job - apart from 4 hours in the ER for stitches - in less than 2 hours. Total cost $7-95 for a new bearing, plus 2x 99cents for brass pipe fittings with 5.5mm I/D to press the bearing onto the shaft.

I would be happy to talk anyone through the process.

I now have a silent - except for a whiring motor, which is inaudible from inside the car with the engine running - spoiler retraction.

Nick

Greg D.

sounds like a Bozo DIY ;-) anybody knows what this unit as a whole retails for ? the cable is kinda rusty on my car, I was thinking it might be worth replacing it all unless it's a $200 part - probably is ;-)

NickC4S

Greg,

You are right, Bozo was at play big time. You should have seen the look on my wife's face,"....call yourself a mechanical engineer...!"

Planning the next Bozo adventure. Looks like lowering the car...

Nick

Coleman

I did the mod as well on the bearing.. I got really confused before I could figure out that the two shafs seperated.. I was ready to kick down the $ for a new unit.. It's nice to have it silent now.. that DIY is a good'un.. sorry about your thumb.. as a design student, I used to put Xactos through my digits daily.. learned the hard way as well..

max911

Greg D. ...your $200 guess is close. they retail for about $225. part #
964 624 121 00

max

Greg D.

I knew it ! Typical porsche ripoff ! ;-( I guess I have to locate a bearing then - mine sounds like a coffee grinder as well, even with a new motor !

Just did : http://www.arrowweb.com/bake/pwtl.htm

Johnson bearings (strange website address but hey) carry the 625-2RS as per the DIY on P-car for $2.00 each + shippping (probably more than the bearing cost, so I ordered 2 to allow myself to crush one if I get annoyed or turn into bozo again - though I am taking my medication)

salty1

My spoiloer was "stuck up" as well!! However, it turned out to be that the metal connections of the switch were corroded. Just simply cleaned/scraped them off with a fine metal file I use to clean my lawnmower spark plugs and it worked just fine after that. No probs since and it has been about a year.

Greg D.

Yeah, that is why I mentioned that possibility somewhere in that thread. but I honestly don't "get" it. The microswitch is really a flexible metal bar that gets pushed down by the spoiler onto a button behind it, and it tells the spoiler brain when to stop going up or down - as far as I can tell !

It makes the button go "click". You can do that with your nail... It pushed the switch, I could see no electrical contact whatsoever... At least not on my car. So why that fixed your problem is beyond me ;-) I am sure someone will have the answer and I will crawl back under my rock ;-)

Or maybe we're not talking about the same switch ! you have a 95 vs my 96...

MBR993

Radon716

ok see below

Radon716

Great diagnostic but going to throw in a twist. Tested motor and ‘hummed’ while extending the spoiler but no noise when testing the interior switch going down...is the problem in the interior switch or at a microswitch? Thank you