Kinematic Lever Adventure
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Kinematic Lever Adventure
Good day all, I believe that this is my first post in the 993 forum, probably because I just purchased my first 993, though it's my sixth Porsche. I have been reading here a lot and lurking, as I plan out the process of doing the 'freshening' that this car needs.
My first repair was for a clutch pedal that not only wouldn't return sometimes, but also was not smooth in operation. A lot of good info here on how to do the job, which is not real difficult, just an uncomfortable place to work when removing and reinstalling the pedal box. The car came with a new kinematic lever, and I ordered a new clutch master cylinder to replace the old one. Once I got the old k-arm out, I noticed that it was the latest revision, so someone had replaced it along the way. The seal on the master cylinder looked to have been seeping a bit and the shaft was gunked up, so that was likely the cause of the sticky pedal action. I decided to go ahead and replace the k-arm since I had the new one in hand, and that's where the trouble started.
The job was straight forward and seemed to be going well until I installed the new master cylinder. Once connected to the k-arm, the clutch pedal travel was limited by the master cylinder stroke, and at the top was about 2" below the brake pedal. After a few minutes of observing the pedal mechanism action, scratching my head, and trying to figure out what I did wrong. Then I remembered the thread that Bruce7 had posted when he ran into the same problem. It turns out that a batch of these arms were made with the gear ring clocked wrong. As luck would have it, I have one from that batch. So, I pulled it back apart so that I could reinstall the old one. That brought the pedals into alignment, and after reinstalling and bleeding, the clutch is as smooth as butter.
There are photos in Bruce7's post comparing the correct and mis-manufactured k-arms, and I highly recommend to anyone that will be doing this job to inspect your new arm before removing your pedal box and disassembling it.
One job done, nineteen more to go!
Bobby
My first repair was for a clutch pedal that not only wouldn't return sometimes, but also was not smooth in operation. A lot of good info here on how to do the job, which is not real difficult, just an uncomfortable place to work when removing and reinstalling the pedal box. The car came with a new kinematic lever, and I ordered a new clutch master cylinder to replace the old one. Once I got the old k-arm out, I noticed that it was the latest revision, so someone had replaced it along the way. The seal on the master cylinder looked to have been seeping a bit and the shaft was gunked up, so that was likely the cause of the sticky pedal action. I decided to go ahead and replace the k-arm since I had the new one in hand, and that's where the trouble started.
The job was straight forward and seemed to be going well until I installed the new master cylinder. Once connected to the k-arm, the clutch pedal travel was limited by the master cylinder stroke, and at the top was about 2" below the brake pedal. After a few minutes of observing the pedal mechanism action, scratching my head, and trying to figure out what I did wrong. Then I remembered the thread that Bruce7 had posted when he ran into the same problem. It turns out that a batch of these arms were made with the gear ring clocked wrong. As luck would have it, I have one from that batch. So, I pulled it back apart so that I could reinstall the old one. That brought the pedals into alignment, and after reinstalling and bleeding, the clutch is as smooth as butter.
There are photos in Bruce7's post comparing the correct and mis-manufactured k-arms, and I highly recommend to anyone that will be doing this job to inspect your new arm before removing your pedal box and disassembling it.
One job done, nineteen more to go!
Bobby
#2
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Central California
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Good day all, I believe that this is my first post in the 993 forum, probably because I just purchased my first 993, though it's my sixth Porsche. I have been reading here a lot and lurking, as I plan out the process of doing the 'freshening' that this car needs.
My first repair was for a clutch pedal that not only wouldn't return sometimes, but also was not smooth in operation. A lot of good info here on how to do the job, which is not real difficult, just an uncomfortable place to work when removing and reinstalling the pedal box. The car came with a new kinematic lever, and I ordered a new clutch master cylinder to replace the old one. Once I got the old k-arm out, I noticed that it was the latest revision, so someone had replaced it along the way. The seal on the master cylinder looked to have been seeping a bit and the shaft was gunked up, so that was likely the cause of the sticky pedal action. I decided to go ahead and replace the k-arm since I had the new one in hand, and that's where the trouble started.
The job was straight forward and seemed to be going well until I installed the new master cylinder. Once connected to the k-arm, the clutch pedal travel was limited by the master cylinder stroke, and at the top was about 2" below the brake pedal. After a few minutes of observing the pedal mechanism action, scratching my head, and trying to figure out what I did wrong. Then I remembered the thread that Bruce7 had posted when he ran into the same problem. It turns out that a batch of these arms were made with the gear ring clocked wrong. As luck would have it, I have one from that batch. So, I pulled it back apart so that I could reinstall the old one. That brought the pedals into alignment, and after reinstalling and bleeding, the clutch is as smooth as butter.
There are photos in Bruce7's post comparing the correct and mis-manufactured k-arms, and I highly recommend to anyone that will be doing this job to inspect your new arm before removing your pedal box and disassembling it.
One job done, nineteen more to go!
Bobby
My first repair was for a clutch pedal that not only wouldn't return sometimes, but also was not smooth in operation. A lot of good info here on how to do the job, which is not real difficult, just an uncomfortable place to work when removing and reinstalling the pedal box. The car came with a new kinematic lever, and I ordered a new clutch master cylinder to replace the old one. Once I got the old k-arm out, I noticed that it was the latest revision, so someone had replaced it along the way. The seal on the master cylinder looked to have been seeping a bit and the shaft was gunked up, so that was likely the cause of the sticky pedal action. I decided to go ahead and replace the k-arm since I had the new one in hand, and that's where the trouble started.
The job was straight forward and seemed to be going well until I installed the new master cylinder. Once connected to the k-arm, the clutch pedal travel was limited by the master cylinder stroke, and at the top was about 2" below the brake pedal. After a few minutes of observing the pedal mechanism action, scratching my head, and trying to figure out what I did wrong. Then I remembered the thread that Bruce7 had posted when he ran into the same problem. It turns out that a batch of these arms were made with the gear ring clocked wrong. As luck would have it, I have one from that batch. So, I pulled it back apart so that I could reinstall the old one. That brought the pedals into alignment, and after reinstalling and bleeding, the clutch is as smooth as butter.
There are photos in Bruce7's post comparing the correct and mis-manufactured k-arms, and I highly recommend to anyone that will be doing this job to inspect your new arm before removing your pedal box and disassembling it.
One job done, nineteen more to go!
Bobby
#5
Rennlist Member
me too. Anyone have a link to Bruce's work?
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here's the link to Bruce's thread:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...y-rebuild.html
I will try to remember to post a photo of the lever with the ring clocked incorrectly.
Bobby
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...y-rebuild.html
I will try to remember to post a photo of the lever with the ring clocked incorrectly.
Bobby
#7
Rennlist Member
great, thanks.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here's a photo of the kinematic arm that is manufactured with the ring clocked wrong. From the right side of the 'double tooth, to the outside left edge is 0.625" or 16mm. I didn't think to photograph the correct one, but if I remember correctly, the distance will be less by about the width of the double tooth on the correct ones. Hopefully this helps.