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-   -   Engine removal phase 2 (bumper) (https://rennlist.com/forums/diy-993-1995-1998/209979-engine-removal-phase-2-bumper.html)

Toga 12-14-2004 05:23 PM

Engine removal phase 2 (bumper)
 
Hi all,

Today I started my project: engine removal and LWF + maintenance where required.
I'll try to do my best in taking pictures during the progress of that DIY job.
So to start, I removed the rear bumper in order to have a better clearance from the ground. This will be important when trying to pull the engine below the car.
The removal of the rear bumper is not a hard job, but if you don’t know where to look to find the screws and bolts that hold it in place, then it can take a certain time. The workshop manual is not very explicit about that job. But there is a nice drawing that helps.

Start by removing the 2 side markers (hold by a visible screw).

http://62.210.160.29/2004/Images2/21...4438890320.jpg
To remove de central reflector:
- remove the plastic cover (4 plastic screws) see pict. above
- then you have access to 3 alen screw (n°4) see pict below
http://62.210.160.29/2004/Images2/21...4439860135.jpg
Put the car on jacks and remove the rear wheels.
Remove the rear half of the wheel arch guards (4 screws each)
You have access to 3 hexagonal head screws (8mm) and 2 screws (bottom)
http://62.210.160.29/2004/Images2/21...0443763732.jpg

On my car, there were 2 rivets in each side marker location. Those rivets were holding a aluminum protection inside the bumper. I drilled them out.
http://62.210.160.29/2004/Images2/21...4439499577.jpg

go under the bumper. You will have to remove 3 screws that holds the heat protection with the bumper cover.
http://62.210.160.29/2004/Images2/21...4438156354.jpg

The last thing to remove is the registration plate lighting. 2 screws hold each lighting. Pull the light out. Disconnect the wires underthe rubber cover. The aim is to be able to push the rubber with the wires through the bumper cover to free the electrical line.
That line has also to be freed from a few clips on the bumper cover.
http://62.210.160.29/2004/Images2/21...4439638973.jpg

The bumper cover is free. Pull gently taking care not to scratch it. If it hard to pull, check at the markers location. That’s probably where the cover has a difficulty to make it’s way out.
Now you see the 2 aluminum shieldings in each markers location. I took them out.

Now to remove the bumper itself…

Remove 5 6mm bolts. Hey hold the alu shield.

Here is it removed with the screw lying on it.
http://62.210.160.29/2004/Images2/21...4437174997.jpg

http://62.210.160.29/2004/Images2/21...4437612529.jpg
You now have access to the two alen bolts (8mm) which are the main bumper support.
http://62.210.160.29/2004/Images2/21...4438568305.jpg
Remove the bumper.
http://62.210.160.29/2004/Images2/21...2044388679.jpg

Mmmm may be a new heath shield will be required!
I think the number of pictures attached is limited, I will close this here, and start another thread with the following operations.

Of course any comments welcome!
go to engine removal phase 2

graham_mitchell 12-14-2004 08:07 PM

Great idea! I will be following your endeavours. Just one question - was it really necessary to drill out the rivets?

Toga 12-15-2004 03:15 AM


Originally Posted by graham_mitchell
Just one question - was it really necessary to drill out the rivets?

At the time I drilled them, I thought there were a "fine" adjustment of the cover. But in fact they just hold the aluminum protector which is behind. So I would say no, it's not necessary to drilled them out, the cover will move anyway. On the otherhand, the cover is very tight on each extremity, at the place where the markers were. I had to help with a wide screw driver to pull it out. I think that if the aluminum cover has to follow, it could be damaged...
And it's not a big job to put new rivets before replacing the cover.

Thanks to all for your support!


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