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Intercooler removal/pics

 
 
Old 05-17-2005, 01:47 AM
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tlark
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Default Intercooler removal/pics

I hope this will help in some way for those doing a strut/spring change, billet diverter valves or rear hood shock replacement.

6 (8mm) bolts attach to the top portion to the intercooler. After those have been removed this top cover will come off. You will note 2 larger bolts (13mm) in this picture on the right & left of the fan. They are below the intercooler itself. This C-shaped bracket holds up the rear section of the cooler. Be very careful at this point. Reach with you fingers behind the bolt to feel the back of the bracket where a square fasting nut exists. While loosing the bolt make sure you hold the nut that it doesn't fall down into the engine compartment.

NOTE: The rear deck lid has been removed. Two allen bolts on each bracket is all that need to be removed. Shims are between the bracket and rear lid. Be careful when you remove. Don't want to drop this on thing on any part of the car. I would suggest you remove the rear lid unless your 5' or less in height and if your less than 5' feet.......well, more power to ya. Also, lay a towel if you can in the engine compartment below the flywheels just in case something drops.
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Old 05-17-2005, 01:53 AM
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At this point you will have to remove the three bolts that support the front portion of the intercooler and attach to the throttle body. The one in the center is the longer of the three. I believe they were 10mm in size, however I didn't take notes when doing this so anyone feel free to correct me on the bolt sizes and I will edit. At this point the intercooler can be removed.
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Old 05-17-2005, 02:02 AM
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I flipped the intercooler over so you could see the bracket and where the square faster nuts are supposed to thread. Note the throttle (larger) opening. A rubber O ring is located there. It could stick to thise section or the throttle body itself still on the engine. Just make sure its where its supposed to be. You don't want the misplace it, and forget to install it.

Note: 4 allen bolts and metal deck lid shims in the fore ground on the counter. One side of the lid had 2 shims and the other had 3. Make sure you know how many shims each side had so you have a even seem when the deck is closed after you re-install it.
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Old 05-17-2005, 02:07 AM
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This is where the rubber O-rings are supposed to be after you have removed the intercooler. Good idea to put a little oil on you finger tip and apply it to the rings before install. Also, be sure and cover these openings. You never know!!!
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Old 05-17-2005, 02:37 AM
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The next two pictures show the hot air blower. This thing does take some exploration so take your time with it. The first thing you need to do is dic-connect its power source leads to the blower motor itself. Look at how the unit attaches to the engine itself. Two 10mm bolts inward need to be removed, and two other bolts in the front that attach to a gold bracket. Then look around to the rear and you will see a mounting bracket (gold color) where a nipple/rubber gromet provides support to the back of the unit. Carefully pull the whole unit forward and this will loosen it. As you gently move the unit around you will then see how the various hoses and vents are connected
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Old 05-17-2005, 02:42 AM
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This shows one of the 10mm inward mounting bolts, two hose clamps and the power feed to the blower motor. I taped all connectors so I would remember to re-attach later. The second 10mm bolt is behind the circular portion.
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Old 05-17-2005, 02:46 AM
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As your able to lift up the blower motor you can now see the (gold color) gromet that provided support for the unit at rear, the inward openings for the 10mm bolts and 3 phillips head screws that need to be removed now.
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Old 05-17-2005, 02:50 AM
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With the three phillips head screws removed the whole motor can is removed. This shown vent or whatever you call it can be removed too.
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Old 05-17-2005, 02:58 AM
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Now to the air box side. Upper arrow points to the opening for the mass flow air sensor. Lower arrow, remove the bolt and then remove the right hand side cover for the box by opening up the 2 clips. The cover will narrowly move forward. Remove the filter and then disconnect a lower vacuum line and remove it from the A-flow opening.
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Old 05-17-2005, 03:09 AM
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Two lower arrows are the vacuum tube that is in the lower part of the air box and its opening. Also another power lead to the intercooler, although I have now forgotten what it was.

Your done at this point. Just remember, if it has an opening cover it, power lead, colored tape it. Take you time and if you have any questions, search, than ask and you'll get answers.

Again, feel free to correct and be specific if I'm in error here with whats been stated and I will edit that others can get use out of this.
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Old 05-17-2005, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc in AK

Mine came off easily without removing the decklid....but I had the car jacked up a few feet.
Yes, you can still leave it on if you want if you can get your car high enough up on jack stands. I found I had more leverage when reaching for the top of the struts, or other stuff w/o the lid being there. Ever since I turned 40 a few years ago I have noticed my lower back doesn't hold like it use too.
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Old 05-18-2005, 12:41 AM
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Remember to disconnect and reconnect the sensor attached to the intercooler.
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