RS short shift DIY notes
10-06-2004, 02:52 PM
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RS short shift DIY notes
Just wrapped up my install of the RS shift kit (just shifter and fork) last night and had a few notes that were not covered in Robin's DIY or the very sparse instruction sheet that I got with the kit (ordered from Gert), since I know at least one other Rennlister will be doing this too (Kelly for example!).
1) In order to remove the center tunnel cover you will need to also at least loosen the under covers to the front and to the rear of this tunnel, since they overlap.
2) You can't just pull and twist the shifter ball off the cup on the bottom of the shifter. As was mentioned in another recent post, it is on very very tight (or at least can be, maybe the cup gets loose with wear; I have about 52k miles). You will need to get a ball joint or tie rod separator, I used a 21/32nds size tool. I got one at Kragen for about $10, and with the tool it took about 30 seconds to get it disconnected, vs. 10 minutes of wasted thrashing and pulling and swearing without it.
3) Conversely, it won't be easy to get the cup back onto the new shifter ball. I used a hydraulic floor jack, and pumped the cup onto the ball, worked like a charm.
4) There are metal retaining rings on the outside of each of the bushings (the ones you flip upside-down, that hold the rod/tube that the shifter slides on). I used a small paint can lid remover (has a small curved tip) to pull this off. Actually you only need to remove one of the rings, since you will pull the tube out the side opposite that which you removed the retaining ring. Sorry if that sounds confusing, it'll make sense when you're there.
I think that about covers it. This took me about 4.5 hours. For perspective, I've done other pretty work on my car, installing PSS9's, valve cover gaskets, spark plug wires. I saw in another post an estimate of a little over 2 hours, which I don't think I could do even having done it once.
Oh, to get under the car, I just lifted one side with a floor jack. This worked fine, just a little tight in places. Could be that #2 and 3 would've been easier if I could have lifted the car higher and I could get more weight/leverage into it, but that stupid ball was in pretty tight, so maybe not.
The shifting is quite a bit better, I'm glad to report. It's definitely worthwhile, and great bang-for-the-buck at only ~$100. Anyway, hope this helps, have fun!
Final note, contrary to the DIY instructions, you do not need to remove the center console. The only work in the cabin you need to do is to remove the shift **** assembly from the shifter; all other work takes place beneath the car.
1) In order to remove the center tunnel cover you will need to also at least loosen the under covers to the front and to the rear of this tunnel, since they overlap.
2) You can't just pull and twist the shifter ball off the cup on the bottom of the shifter. As was mentioned in another recent post, it is on very very tight (or at least can be, maybe the cup gets loose with wear; I have about 52k miles). You will need to get a ball joint or tie rod separator, I used a 21/32nds size tool. I got one at Kragen for about $10, and with the tool it took about 30 seconds to get it disconnected, vs. 10 minutes of wasted thrashing and pulling and swearing without it.
3) Conversely, it won't be easy to get the cup back onto the new shifter ball. I used a hydraulic floor jack, and pumped the cup onto the ball, worked like a charm.
4) There are metal retaining rings on the outside of each of the bushings (the ones you flip upside-down, that hold the rod/tube that the shifter slides on). I used a small paint can lid remover (has a small curved tip) to pull this off. Actually you only need to remove one of the rings, since you will pull the tube out the side opposite that which you removed the retaining ring. Sorry if that sounds confusing, it'll make sense when you're there.
I think that about covers it. This took me about 4.5 hours. For perspective, I've done other pretty work on my car, installing PSS9's, valve cover gaskets, spark plug wires. I saw in another post an estimate of a little over 2 hours, which I don't think I could do even having done it once.
Oh, to get under the car, I just lifted one side with a floor jack. This worked fine, just a little tight in places. Could be that #2 and 3 would've been easier if I could have lifted the car higher and I could get more weight/leverage into it, but that stupid ball was in pretty tight, so maybe not.
The shifting is quite a bit better, I'm glad to report. It's definitely worthwhile, and great bang-for-the-buck at only ~$100. Anyway, hope this helps, have fun!
Final note, contrary to the DIY instructions, you do not need to remove the center console. The only work in the cabin you need to do is to remove the shift **** assembly from the shifter; all other work takes place beneath the car.
