Tune choice for beginner
I have narrowed it down to a stage 1 M vs Stage 1 APR. APR seems to be a little cheaper although that is not as much of an issue and the gains on the APR seem more substantial at 93 than on the M. Only downside I can see is that the APR need to be installed for you.
Given what I am looking for are these the best two options and is their one I should favor more.
Thanks
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- The M Engineering tune has been completely flawless and has run trouble free the whole time I've had it. No error codes, no limp mode, no problems with flashing or returning to stock, no drivability issues - drives as smooth as stock with excellent, non peaky or unpredicable power delivery. I've also driven with my stage 1 tune in hot as ***** AZ summers where it gets to 120+ degrees and have not had any issues. Of course, I'm not trying to do some extended high speed pulls as I'm sure the car would heat soak quickly but I haven't experienced it in daily even aggressive driving.
- It's very easy to install and remove/revert to stock completely by yourself. You can install and/or remove the tune in about 10-15 min max. This is handy for servicing, smogging your car, etc. without having to go back to the shop that installed your tune.
- M Engineering has excellent customer service. They are super responsive - often responding to emails within 15 min, sending updated tunes in 30 min after a request, answering their phones, etc.
- M Engineering provides unlimited updates to your tune. You bought high flow cats and/or want to switch to stage 2 or use E85 a year after you got your tune? No problem. They will send you a revision often the same day you ask.
- M Engineering provides some very useful features like: Open exhaust flaps 100% whcih is a must on our cars b/c the factory PSE is weak as hell. Also they allow you to increase the stationary rev limiter so you can rev the car higher than 3500 RPM when car is in neutral. This is great for just revving to hear your engine/exhaust or if you have a manual, and want to launch your car off the line, this is a must have mod. I have my stationary rev limiter set to 7000 RPM. They also allow you to disable auto start/stop so you don't have to press the button or switch to sport mode.
- I also like the software that lets you clear codes and also data log if you want to do that. You don't have to. in fact, I've never data logged my car but it's good to have that feature. I have used the clear codes feature before when I disconnected the battery a long time to install some mods on the car and when I reconnected the battery, the car was throwing codes and acting a bit unusual. Simply clearing codes fixed everything even though it had nothing to do with the ECU tune.
Stage 1 and only 91 for me here in CA. Really woke the car up. Big gains. Other features they offer that were appealing to me are below. I selected all except I left the pops and burbles. Easy laptop connection, download current info, quick email with your car info downloaded and your features you want, emailed file back in a few hours. About 6 minutes install. PSE exhaust valve mod and loud cold start elimination were biggest features for me. Quick and easy and can flash back to stock at home, or alternate tunes if you decide to get crazy with E85 or other high octane fuels. Highly recommend. “M-Engineering also has unique custom features for your Porsche (no charge, available upon request). These are designed from custom code and are not available from other tuning solutions. If you are wanting to add any of these items below, please do so in your calibration request email.
- Raise Rev Limiter (standard on all M-Engineering maps)
- PSE Exhaust Valve Modifications (true ON or OFF function, no need to buy a standalone PSE valve controller). Our most popular modification! Adds sound and power without any hardparts modification
- Loud Cold Start Elimination
- Auto Start/Stop Elimination
- Stationary Free-Revving in Neutral
- Removal of pops and burbles in sport mode”
- The M Engineering tune has been completely flawless and has run trouble free the whole time I've had it. No error codes, no limp mode, no problems with flashing or returning to stock, no drivability issues - drives as smooth as stock with excellent, non peaky or unpredicable power delivery. I've also driven with my stage 1 tune in hot as ***** AZ summers where it gets to 120+ degrees and have not had any issues. Of course, I'm not trying to do some extended high speed pulls as I'm sure the car would heat soak quickly but I haven't experienced it in daily even aggressive driving.
- It's very easy to install and remove/revert to stock completely by yourself. You can install and/or remove the tune in about 10-15 min max. This is handy for servicing, smogging your car, etc. without having to go back to the shop that installed your tune.
- M Engineering has excellent customer service. They are super responsive - often responding to emails within 15 min, sending updated tunes in 30 min after a request, answering their phones, etc.
- M Engineering provides unlimited updates to your tune. You bought high flow cats and/or want to switch to stage 2 or use E85 a year after you got your tune? No problem. They will send you a revision often the same day you ask.
- M Engineering provides some very useful features like: Open exhaust flaps 100% whcih is a must on our cars b/c the factory PSE is weak as hell. Also they allow you to increase the stationary rev limiter so you can rev the car higher than 3500 RPM when car is in neutral. This is great for just revving to hear your engine/exhaust or if you have a manual, and want to launch your car off the line, this is a must have mod. I have my stationary rev limiter set to 7000 RPM. They also allow you to disable auto start/stop so you don't have to press the button or switch to sport mode.
- I also like the software that lets you clear codes and also data log if you want to do that. You don't have to. in fact, I've never data logged my car but it's good to have that feature. I have used the clear codes feature before when I disconnected the battery a long time to install some mods on the car and when I reconnected the battery, the car was throwing codes and acting a bit unusual. Simply clearing codes fixed everything even though it had nothing to do with the ECU tune.
Rennlist
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We have the most comprehensive and most well-vetted and tested tuning solution on the market for the 992, and it's all tuneable from the comfort of your own garage or driveway. M-Tuner allows you to also take your car back to stock in a total of about 5 minutes, with a verified CVN and CALID. There is no need to have to drive to a dealer to go back to stock and pay a fee to do so. We also provide free updates and free calibration changes to basic bolt-on mods or octane changes.
-Charles@M
As an aside, I've dealt with various vendors on a variety of cars for decades and the team at M is so far beyond any other vendor I've ever dealt with. They are ultra responsive and helpful and I've had them make a number of tweaks (changed exhaust, new intercooler, intake plenum, etc) and they've immediately responded with updated files in a super timely manner.
Best,
Karl
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I have narrowed it down to a stage 1 M vs Stage 1 APR. APR seems to be a little cheaper although that is not as much of an issue and the gains on the APR seem more substantial at 93 than on the M. Only downside I can see is that the APR need to be installed for you.
Given what I am looking for are these the best two options and is their one I should favor more.
Thanks
All maintenance should be current, and anything that is coming up should be done. I would also highly recommend starting off with fresh spark plugs, oil, and Intake air filters. At least a boost leak test should be performed with the higher boost of the tune in mind. I would also have a compression test performed to get a pre-tune baseline as well as establish the health of the motor. Collecting an oil sample to send out for analysis is also something I would do for baseline and to track the health of the motor going forward.
Just my .02
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All maintenance should be current, and anything that is coming up should be done. I would also highly recommend starting off with fresh spark plugs, oil, and Intake air filters. At least a boost leak test should be performed with the higher boost of the tune in mind. I would also have a compression test performed to get a pre-tune baseline as well as establish the health of the motor. Collecting an oil sample to send out for analysis is also something I would do for baseline and to track the health of the motor going forward.
Just my .02
While these are all great recommendations, for a Stage 1 tune it's overkill IMHO unless you have spare time and money to fiddle. While Stage 1 offers a nice bump, these 'off the shelf' (OTS) maps are quite mild in the overall scheme of things and don't warrant the kind of scrutiny being suggested. So I'd categorize the above list as 'suggested', rather than 'strongly recommend' / 'required'. YMMV
ps I speak from years of BMW N55 tuning, which definitely warranted much greater preventative maintenance since we were running fairly aggressive maps.
Last edited by jlegelis; Apr 2, 2024 at 11:55 PM.
A compression test will tell you a lot about the health of the engine by measuring the pressure each cylinder is able to achieve on the compression stroke. The test looks at each cylinder as well as max deviation between cylinders. Ideally everything will be in spec and you will have a baseline to refer back to in the future. If there is an issue, you probably want that addressed before the warranty is up. There are many things that can cause a compression issue, but you certainly don't want to crank up the power if you are having an issue. If you are doing the spark plugs, then that's already a good chunk of the labor.
Boost leaks kill turbos. Basically a boost leak makes the turbo work harder (spin faster)to hit the target output. This is bad, but there is some safety margin built in from the OEM. Tuning usually involves cranking up the boost, which is essentially eating into some of the safety margin. The turbo like an engine has a max rpm, and If the turbo overspins it can cause all kinds of problems. Including catastrophic failure sending chunks into the engine. It's also just bad for performance and turbo response. Boost leaks are a pretty common issue as cars age, and something you need to be on top of especially as you start modifying the car.



