arter

Used on VWs and audis for several years now. Also a weight savings.

2001f4s

Thank you for the write up and the excellent detail.

Probably took you 3X as long to put together the explanation as to do the oil change.

Much appreciated and I will reference ,prior to my first oil change.

bkrantz

You're welcome. I did take longer to document what I did, but actually that was probably a good thing in helping me take my time.

Michael Harley

Excellent thread. Kudos to those who contributed!

I'm about to do my first oil change on my '18 991.2 C2. It's got about 2,000 miles, and the dealer will do the first change for free at one year, so I don't need to reset the service indicator.

That said, I have heard that the "oil level" sensor needs to be reset. In a nutshell, if you put more oil in that you took out it won't know the new level so you have to measure what you removed and add EXACTLY that amount back in. This sounds ridiculous... as what happens if I add a quart between changes?

Any truth to the rumors?

- Mike

Churchill

Well, you better only drive your car in a straight line, because driving around turns puts an awful lot more stress on the suspension than jacking up one side of your car.

arter

sensor doesnt need to be reset... it just has to get up to temp to take a reading so it might take 20 minutes of driving around to give you an updated reading.

no problem with adding between changes (if you need too).

only thing needing to be reset is the service count down

Michael Harley

Thanks to bkrantz for such excellent documentation!

I changed the oil on my '18 991.2 C2 last weekend and it went much easier than I had expected. All told, maybe about 60 minutes (the hardest part was getting it up on ramps and level).

Note: You don't need a tool to reset the oil level indicator (as arter notes above)... the vehicle will do it by itself... eventually. I learned this from Chris Andropoulos, at Schneider Autohaus (they do all of the work on my '186 930):

"Like all modern Porsches, the 991-2 uses a (rather overcomplicated) oil measurement algorithm that requires a learning/calibration period. Any time the rear lid is opened, the system assumes that you might be adding oil, so the oil level measurement is recalculated. This requires the oil being at operating temperature (at least 90 degrees C) and the car needs to be driven for at least 6 miles for the oil level to be displayed in the instrument cluster. The oil level will eventually display on its own without driving, but it takes the oil temperature a long time to warm up while idling, so might as well drive it . . . .

The factory scan tool can be used to force this measurement to occur in the service bay (takes a few minutes after the engine warms up) and the value is displayed with more precision (on a percentage scale) than with the instrument cluster reading. This is a good idea because even a few percentage points over-full will cause the oil level over-full warning to display and scare the driver into thinking that catalytic converter damage is imminent!"

I drove mine about 10 miles and it still didn't register. Frustrated, I put it back into the garage for the night. Interestingly enough, I turned the key before I started it in the morning and it showed the proper oil level... the computers will basically recalculate the oil level if the engine has sat for long enough.

It's perfect now.

- Mike

philg3

Performed oil / filter service on my 2017 (991.2) Turbo a few days ago -- a few observations:

• Oil pan and drain plug are metal on this model -- allen wrench (I believe 12MM) is need to remove and re-install plug (bought the plastic tool from Amazon, but N/A on the Turbo)
• Used this drain pan from Amazon (Lisle 17942 Black Plastic 4.5-Gallon Drain Pan)
• As stated in this well documented procedure, really good idea to place some shop towels or paper towels near the oil filter housing, as when I removed the filter a few drops of oil dripped and were caught by the towels
• Only needed to remove right fan, and pop (hood) release cable from the indentation in the plastic below, rather than remove it
• Took 9 quarts of oil to refill, bought one of these from Amazon to refill, and it was worth it (Lisle 19702 Dispenser with Lid and Cap - 8 Quart Capacity)
• Reset "Oil Change Required" indicator with a Durametric -- installed most recent software prior to the reset -- worked just fine
• Used Rhino ramps -- same as pictured in post above -- backed onto it, used a creeper to get to the drain plug
• Embarrassed to disclose how long the procedure took, but next time I can do it in half an hour easy

Britdave

Fantastic write up, and photos. So good, I was all set to do it myself on my "new 2017 911/991 gen 2 " , that just turned 3,000 miles. Got all the stuff (oil filter & O ring, new plastic drain plug, and even the special tool to remove and install the new plastic drain plug, THEN I remembered the warranty, and re-setting the on board computer display !
Hence, fearing that issue, I took it to my local Independant Porsche tech here in Daytona, where I use to take my old 996, where I could get a receipt at least. He is very good, and I watched him do it, but realizing I could have easily done it too.

So my questions are : #1. How does Porsche inc feel about the owner who wants to change his own oil, when the car is still under warranty ? I mean, how can you prove it was done ? At least my indy, gave me a dated receipt, showing he was a bonafide Porsche tech, and listed the Mobil 1 0-40 , and Porsche (Mahl) OEM filter .

#2. How does one re-set the onboard computer, ref the "oil change" ?
If something were to happen to the motor, when it's still under warranty, and the owner has been doing all the oil changes, would that not void the warranty ?

Also my indy said the Mobil 1 0-40 is ok , but he recommends either the Mobil 1 5W-40 or "LIQUI MOLY" SAE 5W-40 (German oil) particularly here in Florida ! He also didn't like the plastic oil pan (with no cooling fins to dissipate heat) and this new style 1 1/2 turn plastic drain plug, apparently it's also used on newer VW's and Audi's Then there is the air filter issue, were you have to remove the entire rear bumper !
It's quite apparent, that Stuttgart does not want us working on our own cars anymore, and what's with all this plastic stuff Any advice/input on the latter is much appreciated Thanks Dave C ( Ponce inlet Florida)

arter

Keep records of when you did it youself. Porsche cant require that only they do the work, just that it was done.
Reset using Duramtric tool, iCarPorsche device, or see if you Indy will reset it for you .

bkrantz

Dave, glad you liked my write-up. Any documentation of required service will keep the warranty in effect, including DIY service (and that includes reciepts for filters, oil, etc.). My philosophy goes beyond just the warranty, and into the fuzzy area of dealer "good will". So while I have and will do my own supplementary oil changes, I will pay the dealer to do at least some of the major service. I am probably deluding myself, but I hope if I ever need a dealer to support me, having a service record will help.

Britdave

Thanks for the quick response, B Krantz I will most probably take my 991.2 to the Orlando dealer to get the brake fluid changed, just to establish a relationship (I bought the car used with 2,100 miles on it from West Palm beach Fl Ferrari ) although they are still overpriced compared to my indy guy. But the warranty still worries me ref DYI ?

Most other general maintenance by Porsche dealers are a RIP OFF ! But they do have good coffee and donuts. LOL I will take your advice and keep ALL receipts of oil etc I buy, and speaking of oil, how about that "Liqui Moly" 5W -40 German oil , can anyone expound on that or the Mobil or other brand 5W-50 someone else mentioned ? Thanks for any further info on any general maintenance on the 991 gen 2

jungkim1234

I'm assuming you live in the south since you purchased your car in West Palm Beach. From what I've read, 5W-40 might be a better fit for you and those who live in a hot climate. The 0-40 is generally better for cooler climates. As far as brand goes, as long as you go with a well known fully synthetic like Mobile 1 or Liquid Molly, you'll be fine. You don't want to ask the brand question here, or on any other forum.... it'll just open up a worm hole!

Jaws1

My strategy is the same as yours. My car will be due for brake fluid replacement sometime this summer and I'll get the dealer to do it, but oil changes will be my domain. I've already bought some parts through the dealer and I'll make sure to buy the oil filters through them as well. And once the car is out of warranty, the indy is right across the street from my office.

Britdave

Thanks guys for all the info on 991/ gen 2 oil changes, I'll be doing the next one myself, after I figure out the best way to get under my 911 ? Jacks, Rhino ramps, or perhaps these cheaper ones ? >>> https://www.summitracing.com/parts/r...roducts&gclid=