991.2 Oil Change Procedure (with photos)
08-19-2017, 01:21 PM
#61
Rennlist Member
I bought a pair of the two piece, 8" Race Ramps then jacked the front up on my Jackpoint stands. It was pretty level with lots of room to maneuver under the car and no bending over the engine cover components to remove them. Perfect!
08-22-2017, 07:34 PM
#62
Rhino Ramps work just fine at a fraction of the cost of the Race Ramps. I find this method safer than trusting just a jack and getting under the car. Also, I use two jacks in order to lift the car evenly on both sides avoiding excessive stress on one side of the suspension.
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Kelsey (07-21-2019)
08-23-2017, 12:09 AM
#63
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rhino Ramps work just fine at a fraction of the cost of the Race Ramps. I find this method safer than trusting just a jack and getting under the car. Also, I use two jacks in order to lift the car evenly on both sides avoiding excessive stress on one side of the suspension.
08-29-2017, 04:09 PM
#64
Oil Capacities and Thanks
bkrantz
Superb writeup and details. About to change oil at 2200 miles and while I have PIWIS subscription, photos are great for those who do not.
A few additions:
1) I have the VW drain plug removal tool but the highly advanced tool specified by PIWIS for removing the drain plug is a "relevant washer (e.g. external diameter of 30 mm, max. 2.4 mm thick)".
2) I have not removed the wire connectors yet but if the fasteners used to mount the connectors (and any other wire bundles) are the types that have wings that expand on the underside of the mounting bracket, a 3/32" or 1/4" socket pushed onto the end of the fastener from the back side of the mounting bracket will retract the wings allowing the fastener to be easily withdrawn from the mounting hole with little effort.
3) PIWIS says that a "clean cloth" should be used to clean the inside of the filter housing and then discarded.
4) Most of the oil capacity information provided in the thread is inaccurate so I have attached a PDF with the fill tables from PIWIS (and yes - the 3.8L from the Turbo and Turbo S holds less oil than the 3.0L).
PS - I cannot post PIWIS instructions as all pages are watermarked with my name and email from my subscription.
Regards,
BIFF
Superb writeup and details. About to change oil at 2200 miles and while I have PIWIS subscription, photos are great for those who do not.
A few additions:
1) I have the VW drain plug removal tool but the highly advanced tool specified by PIWIS for removing the drain plug is a "relevant washer (e.g. external diameter of 30 mm, max. 2.4 mm thick)".
2) I have not removed the wire connectors yet but if the fasteners used to mount the connectors (and any other wire bundles) are the types that have wings that expand on the underside of the mounting bracket, a 3/32" or 1/4" socket pushed onto the end of the fastener from the back side of the mounting bracket will retract the wings allowing the fastener to be easily withdrawn from the mounting hole with little effort.
3) PIWIS says that a "clean cloth" should be used to clean the inside of the filter housing and then discarded.
4) Most of the oil capacity information provided in the thread is inaccurate so I have attached a PDF with the fill tables from PIWIS (and yes - the 3.8L from the Turbo and Turbo S holds less oil than the 3.0L).
PS - I cannot post PIWIS instructions as all pages are watermarked with my name and email from my subscription.
Regards,
BIFF
The following users liked this post:
chowdah (10-27-2019)
08-29-2017, 04:57 PM
#65
Originally Posted by Biff trout
bkrantz
Superb writeup and details. About to change oil at 2200 miles and while I have PIWIS subscription, photos are great for those who do not.
A few additions:
1) I have the VW drain plug removal tool but the highly advanced tool specified by PIWIS for removing the drain plug is a "relevant washer (e.g. external diameter of 30 mm, max. 2.4 mm thick)".
2) I have not removed the wire connectors yet but if the fasteners used to mount the connectors (and any other wire bundles) are the types that have wings that expand on the underside of the mounting bracket, a 3/32" or 1/4" socket pushed onto the end of the fastener from the back side of the mounting bracket will retract the wings allowing the fastener to be easily withdrawn from the mounting hole with little effort.
3) PIWIS says that a "clean cloth" should be used to clean the inside of the filter housing and then discarded.
4) Most of the oil capacity information provided in the thread is inaccurate so I have attached a PDF with the fill tables from PIWIS (and yes - the 3.8L from the Turbo and Turbo S holds less oil than the 3.0L).
PS - I cannot post PIWIS instructions as all pages are watermarked with my name and email from my subscription.
Regards,
BIFF
Superb writeup and details. About to change oil at 2200 miles and while I have PIWIS subscription, photos are great for those who do not.
A few additions:
1) I have the VW drain plug removal tool but the highly advanced tool specified by PIWIS for removing the drain plug is a "relevant washer (e.g. external diameter of 30 mm, max. 2.4 mm thick)".
2) I have not removed the wire connectors yet but if the fasteners used to mount the connectors (and any other wire bundles) are the types that have wings that expand on the underside of the mounting bracket, a 3/32" or 1/4" socket pushed onto the end of the fastener from the back side of the mounting bracket will retract the wings allowing the fastener to be easily withdrawn from the mounting hole with little effort.
3) PIWIS says that a "clean cloth" should be used to clean the inside of the filter housing and then discarded.
4) Most of the oil capacity information provided in the thread is inaccurate so I have attached a PDF with the fill tables from PIWIS (and yes - the 3.8L from the Turbo and Turbo S holds less oil than the 3.0L).
PS - I cannot post PIWIS instructions as all pages are watermarked with my name and email from my subscription.
Regards,
BIFF
(1) I used a small flathead screwdriver that fit inside the drainplug as mine from amazon was on backorder. Now I wished I would've saved the $10, the small flathead fits perfect
(2) used same screwdriver to give the mount a quarter turn, freeing the harness
(3) turkey baster
(4) 8.75 qts and the level moves between totally full and a hair lower than max
08-29-2017, 05:12 PM
#66
My car took exactly 9 qts and reads exactly full. I then put the waste oil in the empty containers to take it for recycling and the containers were all full, confirming that amount removed matched up to the amount replaced.
10-26-2017, 11:39 PM
#69
Instructor
so many options for jacking up our 991 as long as we utilize the jack pooints and the proper puck thingy...
I just bought a HF Alum. Jack but I'm kinda liking the Quick-Jack...
Last edited by See U n RearView; 10-27-2017 at 09:19 PM.
10-28-2017, 11:35 PM
#71
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
found this link and wondered if you knew your post was copied...
http://www.germanboost.com/showthrea...oil-change-DIY
http://www.germanboost.com/showthrea...oil-change-DIY
12-10-2017, 04:28 PM
#74
Instructor
12-22-2017, 05:52 PM
#75
I'd trust the crush washer longer than a rubber o ring but I replace them both each oil change, I'm not a fan of the plastic drain plug and I'm cynical as to what propagated that change.