Maxhouse97

Trying to install my new sport PASM sway bars - in the rear it seems to get out the old one I have to drop the lower control arm wishbone. Two questions:

1) Will I have to realign the car if I remove this? I think not, as the other end of this has the eccentric bolt with alignment markings, but wanted to verify.

2) What is the torque value to retighten this bolt to?

Jabs1542

I haven't done this specific procedure (I did look into this as I'm interested in replacing many of these components with their GT3 counterparts to give me more adjustability).

Alignment: While you are working on the other end of the arm (not the end with the eccentric bolt) it will only maintain 'absolute' alignment if everything fits back just right. If you are dialing in camber within fractions of a degree then you might want to consider a realignment. If it's just a daily driver and you've never had the alignment checked then you're probably ok.

Torque: A general rule is that torque is set by the bolt size (materials do play into this so it isn't guaranteed applicable), so as example all 10mm will have the same torque value. This is very generic but it does get you into the ballpark. Porsche may have a general table of torque versus size (and maybe material).

There is a member on RL named Plenum, I recommend you search him out and send him a PM. He has access to the Porsche tech manuals and may have already pulled down the manual for this procedure. If so, there's a good chance the manual will tell you the exact torque,

jimbo1111

I would mark the eccentric bolt with a fine felt pen in order to realign it. If you remove the inside bolt i dont see a way for you to not upset the eccentric side the moment you lower it out of the way.

CSK 911 C4S

See if the information is in the attached.

Homeles

I would recommend a 4-wheel alignment, no matter how close you think you get it. If it's off, you'll wear tires and suspension parts very quickly. $150 for an alignment will pay for itself down the road.

Maxhouse97

Thanks guys - I actually downloaded the workshop manual procedure for this, so have the exact torque. PIWIS TSI is an amazing resource!

But back to the eccentric bolt - how is my loosing the outer end and moving it out of the way (while not touching the inner side with the eccentric bolt) any different then the arm moving through it's normal range of motion while driving? The eccentric bolt sees motion either way, right? If it's tight it's designed to stay in place I think?

The alignment is not just a money things, it's a royal pain in the *** the drop my car off, have to get the wife involved, hear the complaints, etc. You know the drill if your are happily married 🙂

I'll be posting my progress back on my sway bar thread. Thanks.

awrryan

good luck. Would love to hear what you think about the sway bars once installed.

Churchill

It's not. As long as you don't touch the eccentric you're good to go.

jimbo1111

I find it hard to believe that the drop links are the same as non spsam. I dont trust your source. i would get a vin number from a spasm car to reference the correct parts needed. Besides, the preload is differnt to a stock pasm and that alone will throw off a corner balance.

awrryan

The drop links should be the same. See attached pictures of the parts diagram that I have. Hope this helps.