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actually that's pretty clean, the detergent in the oil cleaning the internals makes the oil appear dark, but you can still see a nice honey color thru the light
Just in case anyone is curious, here's what I did yesterday...
Before draining the oil, we revved the 991 slightly in the shop until the temperature reached approximately 200 degress F.
We then remove the oil pan drain plug (8 MM) and let oil drain.
While the engine oil was draining, my friend did the brake flush. If you're interested, the order of the brake flush is:
1. Rear passenger outside, then inside
2. Rear driver outside, then inside
3. Front passenger outside, then inside
4. Front driver outside, then inside
After the brake flush was done, roughly 45-50 mins later, I didn't see anymore oil dripping from the oil pan.
I was told that in the 991, the oil in the oil filter housing is designed to automatically drain; we don't need to worry about oil coming out of the housing when removing the oil filter.
I finished topping off the oil level today. To reach the top marker, I ended up using approximately 8 Qt, 18.5 Fluid Oz, and 1 can of BG MOA (11 Fluid Oz). So, all in all, I needed approximately 8 Qt and 29.5 Fluid Oz of engine oil.
The oil filter, drain plug, and washer were purchased from Pelican. Their price is great, except for the shipping cost (see picture). I will look at other places next time. It would be nice if Amazon has everything so I can use Prime shipping.
The oil was purchased from either Walmart or NAPA (can't remember).
I also added 1 can of BG 44K. I do this approximately every 2K miles.
The 1st picture shows what's left of the 9th Qt of Mobil 1; this is after dumping in 8 Qt and 1 can of BG MOA.
The 2nd picture shows what I bought from Pelican. I ended up not using the new drain plug.
The 3rd picture shows what you'll need (drain plug is optional) to do an oil change.
The MOA and 44K were purchased from Ebay.
My 2012.5 (MT) has approximately 26K miles now, and is good to go for another year (two years for brakes).
Overall, the oil change process is very simple; it should be an easy and great DIY for almost everyone. If you can get access to a lift, then it's a bonus!
Well, I couldn't resist making this my first post since it's a topic I can actually comment on. Still learning 991 stuff in anticipation of my 4GTS arriving but after many years of VAG cars (mostly Audi) here's a few comments to consider...
- the color of oil is absolutely no indicator of what's going on in your engine, oil should turn dark as it reacts with the acids and blowby products
- to know if your oil change is needed you need to get a used oil analysis with TBN. I use Blackstone labs, others here don't like them but I've been happy for 15 years with their work. Sample the oil the next time when you think you'd want to change it and see what the test says, then decide. My Q7 4.2 at the 10K sample usually shows a TBN of 3, can go another 5K with that.
- oil additives do no harm but also do no good, so they are a waste of $$
- fuel system cleaners also not needed particularly if you use a top tier fuel, again waste of $$. Since you are in the OKC area and can get non-ethanol fuel, that would be way better than using an additive
Ouch on setting the new filter on the concrete. Hope you got all the grit off before installing.
No need to get a new plug, just the crush washer. Just get it from your VW dealer for 10 cents. Super common item. Don't tell them it's for a 911 just go by size.
I found filters on Amazon for $12.99 with prime.
Don't wanna sound like a jerk but I gotta post sometime and your post drew me in.
- oil additives do no harm but also do no good, so they are a waste of $$
- fuel system cleaners also not needed particularly if you use a top tier fuel, again waste of $$. Since you are in the OKC area and can get non-ethanol fuel, that would be way better than using an additive
Bob - Thanks for your post and comments!
Here's why I use MOA and 44K. I used to have a 2012 Cayenne S, which I bought new. The engine had to be replaced by Porsche at roughly 40K miles due to pre-ignition/detonation. Upon inspection, the technician found scoring inside the cylinders. After the engine was replaced, the lead technician at Bob Moore Porsche, and the regional Porsche rep, recommended that I use MOA and 44K to decrease the likelihood of carbon deposits, especially with DFI engines. From then on, I've been using both products.
As for top tier fuel, you're correct! OKC has non-ethanol, and I always use 93 Octane.
The filter in the picture wasn't the one I installed this time. It's the spare one I bought for the next oil change. But, great comment! I will make sure it's cleaned before I use it next year.
Great suggestion on buying the crush washer for 10 cents from a VW dealer. I will definitely try to remember this.
What brand is the $12 filter on Amazon? Is it Mahle? If so, then this is the way to go!
Glad you chimed in! My post, especially when I shared the information regarding the total oil quantity used, was really intended to help those who are rookies, like me, who would like to do their own oil changes. The other information pertaining to the P/N and where to purchase these parts were also intended to help those wondering where to buy these things, like I did.
Here are a couple of pictures of my Cayenne S. In one of the pictures, it's parked next to my 997.2. I no longer own both. I really do miss driving the Cayenne as a SUV though!
It was the Mahle OX254D4ECO I found on Amazon. From what I can tell that is what the Porsche dealer will sell you labeled as 948-107-222-00. Lots of applications across the Porsche models. Mann also has their version as HU 9001 X. Maybe it comes bulk wrapped at that price.
Too bad on the Cayenne motor. What motor was it, the 4.8? The 4.2 in my Q7 was also known for carbon deposits as are most DI engines. There was a guy who had an Audi S4 which had this same motor (higher revving) and he worked with a boutique oil producer (RLI) to make a 5w-40 oil that would keep fuel out of the oil and help on carbon deposits. This was when I got serious about used oil testing. And I've used that oil for the life of the car (now at 122K) at mostly 10K oil changes. For a while I used a different guy to to the oil analysis and he made clear that from time to time "you gotta wail on the engine" to clean out the carbon deposits. I've done that and so far I add zero oil between changes. Kinda fun going 120 in the wide open west!
Getting ready for the GTS to arrive. I've been disappointed with the lack of technical stuff on the Porsche forums. The Audi forums were all about mods and technical data. Rennlist not so much. I still have to explore Planet9 and flatsixes.
The pics you posted are very useful. The 991.2 will have a composite oil pan with the "new" VAG single use plastic drain plug. But the oil change is gonna be essentially the same.
I've been very successful on all my cars changing oil early during break in. The UOA always shows lots of metal and manufacturing goop left behind and then settles down after the third change. So I do 1K, 3K, 6K, 10K. And then as needed based on sampling the oil at 5K intervals. The service guy tried to tell me that they use a special break in oil in my '02 TT and I should leave it there for the 10K miles so it can do its job. What a crock.
But I can see trying to break down the carbon deposits with either the wail on it regiment or a fuel additive. Here's to long lasting engines!
I found some pictures of the replacement Cayenne S engine before it was installed. I thought I would share these just in case some of you find it interesting.
For those of you who has a Cayenne (4.8-liter V-8), and has to have your engine replaced from Porsche, this is what the new engine will look like after it arrives from Germany...
Too bad on the Cayenne motor. What motor was it, the 4.8?
--bob
The Cayenne S had a 4.8-liter V-8. That was my wife's car, but I loved driving that thing especially in Sport mode! I do wonder sometimes how the new turbo engines compare to the old V-8 NA engines.
Thank you for the information on the oil filters from Amazon. This helps me, and should help those who are getting ready to do an oil change.
I'm excited for you on your new 4GTS! Please post pictures when it comes in. When is it supposed to arrive anyway?
02-25-2017, 09:06 PM
Here's what 5K mile oil looks like
