john45in

Hawc's car would have taken well to bright aluminum trim around the side windows.

Still restless

I'm having trouble getting the light out of its socket. Before giving up and having the dealer do it, I'm wondering if anyone has tried some WD 40 to loosen things up. I rather not create the mess if it does no good. Thanks.

Need4S

The parts are mostly plastic, so if they're stuck, it's not due to them being rusted in place. Also, I would not use any petroleum-based product on it, as most will attack plastic parts.

It can take more palm pressure than you might think to release the light from the fender if the OEM marker light has been there for awhile. Use your palm to push in and either forwards or rearwards (I can't remember which way it points, but there's a hook-shaped pin near the front, behind the lighting unit that helps hold it to the body. It's this hook that you're trying to release by pushing forwards or backwards.) on the trailing end, and the front tip should lift/tilt towards you just enough to let you get your fingers under it to pull it off the car.

If you're referring to the socket in the wiring harness being stuck, there is a see-saw kind of release. You push it on one end and the other lifts up to release the socket from the OEM light unit, and then you carefully pull the socket from the lighting unit. I found it easier to push on the release with my finger rather than use a small screwdriver. On my car, there was not much wiring slack so it was a bit tight to work with.

Still restless

Thanks. I was referring to getting the entire unit out from the body. I've played around with this enough times at this point so am close to giving up. I'm not using all the pressure I can exert as I'd rather not break anything. With the cold weather, I'll give it another try as things may be a bit looser now. I'm due for my one-year service in about 3 months; one way or another, it will be done by then.

St8haus

It is a very straight-forward process and should not require a lot of force...

tekniik

Does it feel like the connector\cable is not long enough to get access to it? That is what I ran into with mine, on both sides. I could pop it off the fender easy enough but when I had to disconnect it, the cable was short and did not have much play. It was tricky getting the old ones out. Reconnecting was much easier though.

Sidvicious7

My cable was short on both sides, but I was able to exchange both lights with only a small flat blade screw driver to unclip the harness connectors. Refer to Suncoast video on their parts website.

Still restless

I haven't gotten to the wiring yet as the light unit is not budging at all from the fender. I've seen the video and read the instructions, so I'm being challenged more than most. Nevertheless, thanks for helping.

Cristophosphorus

It is really a challenging mod (or the easiest mod ever) depending on how you go about doing it (and the length of your wiring, which seems to vary immensely). On my 2016, it took quite a while (and a lot of cold sweat) by using a flathead screwdriver wrapped with a towel to pry UP the front end of the light (toward the front of the car). Once up, you then pull BACK and it slides out with a small thunk.

My wiring was also ridiculously short, but the same screwdriver was used to pry out the connector and slide in the new LEDs.

If you're uneasy about it, just let the dealer do it next time. I've seen plenty of posts where people unknowingly use too much pressure and snap the aluminum clip off.

Larry Cable

If I understand you correctly you really DONT want to pry the front of the unit UP/or outwards from the body/bumper, there is a tab located there...

I found that you want to push BACK on the front of the light in order to
partially compress the retaining spring clip at the back of the unit, then
you prize the back of the unit outwards hinging the unit around the tab
at the front...

in short the light should be removed like as if you were opening it like a door
with the hinge at the front of the unit/bumper

I fear that if you prize the front you will break the tab...

I used a small trim device to push on the leading edge of the unit backwards
to compress the retaining spring ... ymmv

tekniik

+1 this is exactly what I did and it worked fine. Definitely want to push back first and then out.

CSK 911 C4S

I used some rubber gloves on my hands when I changed mine and it helped give me more grip to slide the light back.

PatrickC23

So after one failed attempt because I was scared to pry too hard, I went back this weekend prior to my wash and installed them. If you use a plastic pry bar, its simple, took me less than ten minutes for both. I used and L shaped angled 2 prong pry bar I had from installing parts from my M5.

First thing I did was move the reflector a bit, just to get it a bit loose by pushing back on the amber reflector and ensure it wasn't really stuck in there. All I did was attempt to slide the reflector away from the front of the car and could tell it was willing to move. Then I simply insert the pry bar on the angled edge closest to the front of the car and "pryed" it out using the edges of the fender for leverage. It doesn't take any effort at all, or didn't for me, the front side popped right out and I was able to remove then entire reflector easily after that.

Like someone said, there is very little wiring used for the reflector so its a tight fit, but I did not need a screwdriver (was paranoid I'd gouge the car). You can depress the clip with a finger and it simply slides off after that.

Less than ten minutes.

Other posts seem to say this is not the way to do it, but I didnt just pry out on the front - based on my pry bar, it was in fact pushing the reflector back and then popping it out.

friar93

FYI, I just ordered these and thought Id help anyone searching this post for the first time like me.... they are currently on sale at Suncoast. Im not sure what they normally go for on other sites but the LED ones are $120 and the regular are about 1/2 that.

https://www.suncoastparts.com/produc...1LEDSIDES.html

Loft23

Oh didn't know. The configurator on my '18 shows it as white, even on the PDSL (xenon) I ordered. If they do come yellow standard on US bound cars, I'll have to switch. Is there a part # or best price online to purchase?