Oil change now or?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Oil change now or?
I am getting ready to put my 991 C2 Cab into winter storage/hibernation. Do you suggest an oil change before hibernation, or can I wait until spring?
#3
Burning Brakes
I think some of the precautions we take are unnecessary....I also skip my lawnmower(s), pressure washer, rototiller & who knows how much other stuff & they've been working perfect for years w/no issues when I fire them up in the spring.
I just started my snowblower in preparation for what might be coming this winter - it sat idle since last Feb. Of course they're all Hondas ha ha!
I just started my snowblower in preparation for what might be coming this winter - it sat idle since last Feb. Of course they're all Hondas ha ha!
#5
Anybody know a reliable method of determining when your car is hibernating? I notice lower body temp but do RPM's actually stop or just slow way down? I'm worried mine is parked and only pretending to be hibernating.
#6
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I changed my oil in late September (Mobil 5W50) in preparations for winter hibernation. Did two road trips in October for just under 1,500 miles. Shut the car down on Oct 19 and spent 2 weeks doing a wheels off full concours detail. Won't run the car again till April. I'll do another 3,500 miles and change the oil again.
I'm not worried about the 1,500 miles on the fresh oil prior to hibernation. Had there been 4,000 miles, I would have changed it early before putting it down.
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I'm not worried about the 1,500 miles on the fresh oil prior to hibernation. Had there been 4,000 miles, I would have changed it early before putting it down.
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#7
Racer
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#11
$75 DIY.
I would change it in March when it is a year old. 4000 miles is nothing on synthetic oil. The old school change before storage dates back to leaded gasoline and conventional oils. Back then even 1500 mile old oil had lead salts, sulphur compounds, unburned fuel and water in it, making for a mighty corrosive mix. This still applies to airplane engines.
There are no corrosive components in used oil anymore, so no pressing need to change before storage, if it won't be due during storage anyway.
The over maintainers will always argue 'this is the way we always did it' and 'it's cheap peace of mind'. No point in debating that.
I would change it in March when it is a year old. 4000 miles is nothing on synthetic oil. The old school change before storage dates back to leaded gasoline and conventional oils. Back then even 1500 mile old oil had lead salts, sulphur compounds, unburned fuel and water in it, making for a mighty corrosive mix. This still applies to airplane engines.
There are no corrosive components in used oil anymore, so no pressing need to change before storage, if it won't be due during storage anyway.
The over maintainers will always argue 'this is the way we always did it' and 'it's cheap peace of mind'. No point in debating that.