Vario cam valve lift solenoid?
#16
Rennlist Member
Well, there's your problem. Your cam shaft fell out.
Dealers...
Dealers...
#17
Rennlist Member
watching...
#18
Rennlist Member
Now I’ve had gentler, milder, fleeting events happen before that I now recognize as similar to what others are describing.
I’ll come back later with some information on the intermittent events I now recognize were short term malfunctions of this part, which preceded the outright failures I’ve experienced.
I’ll come back later with some information on the intermittent events I now recognize were short term malfunctions of this part, which preceded the outright failures I’ve experienced.
I would feel shuddering and vibration, throttle response would be lethargic, and that would snap my attention to the gauges. No warnings came up on these lesser events. The sensation would be considerably less dramatic than the two times the part has failed and required replacement, but still similar. That's the reason I think the two types of events are related. Back to these events: Reflexively I would pop the transmission into neutral and rev the engine, much like you would do to clear out the carburetors of an older car or 2 stroke motorbike. The event would be over in just a few seconds, the car would return to working as normal, and I would feel dumb. "Did that just happen?"
This happened a minimum of twice (I know it happened once with my wife in the car, and once by myself) and possibly three times between the first replacement of this part and the second failure. Unfortunately I do not recall if it happened before the first failure and replacement. I have not experienced any malfunctions of any sort since this second replacement, though I have only driven a couple of hundred miles. If anything else happens on this topic, I'll come back and post.
#19
I ran into the exact issue.
When the car was warmed up (30 minute drive) at some traffic lights or times I came to a stop the car would almost stall. I have a (PDK car) and it was like a person was learning to drive stick behind the wheel and not working the clutch very well. The car would almost stall, the engine would shake the whole car because it got down so low rpm wise. Craziness. It was a royal pia to replicate because it would do it intermittently.
I drive to the dealer, no problems, (of course) 10 minutes from the dealer after they cleared all codes (I had a bunch of misfires recorded), re-adapted the throttle, the problem came back in full force. So I drove back to the dealer again. More misfires, and I was able to recreate it for a tech. They ordered parts on Friday got my car back today (Monday). Pretty good turn around on their end.
So far so good, it was really hot out and the drive home no issues. I could even tell when off throttle the car felt way smoother. So far so good, will report back when I do my usual drive that set this thing off in the first place.
Replacement Part Number:
9A1-105-308-03
Seems this part number has been revised more then once. Keep in mind I have a '14 C4 with 48k miles.
I drive to the dealer, no problems, (of course) 10 minutes from the dealer after they cleared all codes (I had a bunch of misfires recorded), re-adapted the throttle, the problem came back in full force. So I drove back to the dealer again. More misfires, and I was able to recreate it for a tech. They ordered parts on Friday got my car back today (Monday). Pretty good turn around on their end.
So far so good, it was really hot out and the drive home no issues. I could even tell when off throttle the car felt way smoother. So far so good, will report back when I do my usual drive that set this thing off in the first place.
Replacement Part Number:
9A1-105-308-03
Seems this part number has been revised more then once. Keep in mind I have a '14 C4 with 48k miles.
#20
I believe I am too having this issue.
I have a 2013 3.4 with under 30k miles
I am noticing a rough/stumbling idle and throwing the code p0172 (System Too Rich Bank 1)
I also have a "stored code" p1382 - which comes up as valve lift in Bank 1 according to Porsche
My assumption is I need to have the valve lift solenoid in bank 1. Has anyone with this issue had similar codes?
I have a 2013 3.4 with under 30k miles
I am noticing a rough/stumbling idle and throwing the code p0172 (System Too Rich Bank 1)
I also have a "stored code" p1382 - which comes up as valve lift in Bank 1 according to Porsche
My assumption is I need to have the valve lift solenoid in bank 1. Has anyone with this issue had similar codes?
#21
Advanced
I believe I am too having this issue.
I have a 2013 3.4 with under 30k miles
I am noticing a rough/stumbling idle and throwing the code p0172 (System Too Rich Bank 1)
I also have a "stored code" p1382 - which comes up as valve lift in Bank 1 according to Porsche
My assumption is I need to have the valve lift solenoid in bank 1. Has anyone with this issue had similar codes?
I have a 2013 3.4 with under 30k miles
I am noticing a rough/stumbling idle and throwing the code p0172 (System Too Rich Bank 1)
I also have a "stored code" p1382 - which comes up as valve lift in Bank 1 according to Porsche
My assumption is I need to have the valve lift solenoid in bank 1. Has anyone with this issue had similar codes?
Best_stevie
#22
A few pointers:
- Someone previously noted they had this problem twice, it is likely only one solenoid was changed and then the other one failed. It is strange these parts are failing so early but it is common for them to fail close to one another.
- Part is only about $140 and replacement is easy as part is held by two bolts on outside of engine and access is ok
- Switching sides (as done by the tech) is an easy way to diagnose (if fault follows)
- This part controls valve timming so on failure the mixture will be incorrect and engine will misfire, damage is possible so avoid driving if misfiring
- Someone previously noted they had this problem twice, it is likely only one solenoid was changed and then the other one failed. It is strange these parts are failing so early but it is common for them to fail close to one another.
- Part is only about $140 and replacement is easy as part is held by two bolts on outside of engine and access is ok
- Switching sides (as done by the tech) is an easy way to diagnose (if fault follows)
- This part controls valve timming so on failure the mixture will be incorrect and engine will misfire, damage is possible so avoid driving if misfiring
#23
A few pointers:
- Someone previously noted they had this problem twice, it is likely only one solenoid was changed and then the other one failed. It is strange these parts are failing so early but it is common for them to fail close to one another.
- Part is only about $140 and replacement is easy as part is held by two bolts on outside of engine and access is ok
- Switching sides (as done by the tech) is an easy way to diagnose (if fault follows)
- This part controls valve timming so on failure the mixture will be incorrect and engine will misfire, damage is possible so avoid driving if misfiring
- Someone previously noted they had this problem twice, it is likely only one solenoid was changed and then the other one failed. It is strange these parts are failing so early but it is common for them to fail close to one another.
- Part is only about $140 and replacement is easy as part is held by two bolts on outside of engine and access is ok
- Switching sides (as done by the tech) is an easy way to diagnose (if fault follows)
- This part controls valve timming so on failure the mixture will be incorrect and engine will misfire, damage is possible so avoid driving if misfiring
#25
Not quite but there is:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...4-5-6-a-4.html
Do create one if you get a chance
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...4-5-6-a-4.html
Do create one if you get a chance
#26
Not quite but there is:
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...4-5-6-a-4.html
Do create one if you get a chance
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...4-5-6-a-4.html
Do create one if you get a chance
I wish I did this before swapping my exhaust. It seems removing the bumper and mufflers is necessary to get this done, correct?
#28
Glad it was fixed for $183 for you. Lucky men! I paid $3100 to have it diagnosed and resolved. Kind of annoyed but I like the Service Adviser. I wish you folks would post the error codes too so that in the future folks can point to them. Lastly any idea for those who had to change the solonoid, if they also had Air Oil Separator issue in the past. That was $1311 only months ago. This has been an expensive car for me.
#29
Burning Brakes
I too am experiencing the P1382 stored code. Car has 95000 miles and an appointment on 8/10 at the dealer....I will print out your descriptions of the problem as they are exactly what the car is doing and I would not be able to explain it better! Thanks all!!
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morefun (09-16-2023)
#30
Advanced
A bit late to the discussion but if it can help anyone in the future. Got a 2009 C4 PDK. Really rough idle. Basically the car was misfiring at idle (but not always when putting load on the engine).
Diagnosed with a bank 2 Vario Cam solenoid going bad. Now I don't know if the fix will work as they need to keep the car for up to 2 weeks (shop if full of Taycan having software update...).
It was combined with a PDK that needed reprogramming (and a lot of other stuff I am suing the seller for )
Diagnosed with a bank 2 Vario Cam solenoid going bad. Now I don't know if the fix will work as they need to keep the car for up to 2 weeks (shop if full of Taycan having software update...).
It was combined with a PDK that needed reprogramming (and a lot of other stuff I am suing the seller for )