991 DIY Oil Change
04-16-2015, 02:33 PM
#35
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991 Oil Change - A couple of helpful bits
This procedure is extremely simple.... just fiddly on the top side. Note the following;
I put my GR 911S 7M up on all 4 Jackstands (the most ingenious car product of the last 50 years, I have no affiliation or interest in the company). You need to reach well under to get at the drain plug.
1) It is really tight working through the top hatch. Once the oil filter cap is removed, its inserted barrel must be unplugged from the oil filter it "skewers" at both ends. I could not remove the cap and filter as one. Had to wiggle the barrel in the cap off the filter while still in the housing , and wiggle the cap off it and around for a while until I found an orientation that I could get it through the awkward gap in the hatch opening. Everything interferes with it... So make sure you have rags wrapped around the housing or it will get messy...
2) Installing the new filter is equally fiddly. IMPORTANT. The new element has fabric ends with hole cut smaller in diameter than the barrel that you press it on to, at both ends. Therefore you must soak the element in oil or at least the ends, to soften and stretch so you can push the filter down onto the bottom barrel, and press the cap barrel into the top of the element. Otherwise, the housing cap cannot be engaged. Everything has to be wiggled about to find its place.
3) Keep track of the oil you put in since you cant check the level without starting the engine and waiting until it warms up. This is impossibly annoying.
Otherwise it is a 20 minute process once you have done it once.
Best of all, every DIY oil change you don't do at the dealer frees up enough cash for a case of really nice wine of course it wont last till the next change but it a good start. (Oil and filter bits = $126).
Does anyone know how to reset the oil change light?
I put my GR 911S 7M up on all 4 Jackstands (the most ingenious car product of the last 50 years, I have no affiliation or interest in the company). You need to reach well under to get at the drain plug.
1) It is really tight working through the top hatch. Once the oil filter cap is removed, its inserted barrel must be unplugged from the oil filter it "skewers" at both ends. I could not remove the cap and filter as one. Had to wiggle the barrel in the cap off the filter while still in the housing , and wiggle the cap off it and around for a while until I found an orientation that I could get it through the awkward gap in the hatch opening. Everything interferes with it... So make sure you have rags wrapped around the housing or it will get messy...
2) Installing the new filter is equally fiddly. IMPORTANT. The new element has fabric ends with hole cut smaller in diameter than the barrel that you press it on to, at both ends. Therefore you must soak the element in oil or at least the ends, to soften and stretch so you can push the filter down onto the bottom barrel, and press the cap barrel into the top of the element. Otherwise, the housing cap cannot be engaged. Everything has to be wiggled about to find its place.
3) Keep track of the oil you put in since you cant check the level without starting the engine and waiting until it warms up. This is impossibly annoying.
Otherwise it is a 20 minute process once you have done it once.
Best of all, every DIY oil change you don't do at the dealer frees up enough cash for a case of really nice wine of course it wont last till the next change but it a good start. (Oil and filter bits = $126).
Does anyone know how to reset the oil change light?
04-16-2015, 02:44 PM
#36
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04-16-2015, 02:46 PM
#37
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04-16-2015, 09:38 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
04-17-2015, 12:19 AM
#39
Great post. Used this for the second time for my second annual oil change. Too bad I'm going by years rather than miles. Only at 8k miles in 24 months.
.... Watch out for the catalytic converter. BBQ'd my elbow this past weekend.
.... Watch out for the catalytic converter. BBQ'd my elbow this past weekend.
05-16-2015, 07:15 PM
#41
Silicone grease is best for o-rings.
This is the most important part of the oil change process to make sure all sealing surfaces are clean and the o-ring is undamaged and properly lubed and seated. A leak here will be difficult to detect and potentially catastrophic.
This is the most important part of the oil change process to make sure all sealing surfaces are clean and the o-ring is undamaged and properly lubed and seated. A leak here will be difficult to detect and potentially catastrophic.
05-25-2015, 05:46 PM
#42
Rennlist Member
Anyone in Los Angeles are with a Durametric tool? I want to reset the service light after my oil change.
Please PM me. Thanks! A case of beer is in your future!
Please PM me. Thanks! A case of beer is in your future!
05-26-2015, 10:12 AM
#43
Rennlist Member
Thanks.
05-26-2015, 02:48 PM
#44
Intermediate
05-26-2015, 03:33 PM
#45
