991 DIY Oil Change
08-07-2012, 01:46 PM
#17
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It's the same with and without the filter according to the WS manual.
Technical values
Location____________________ Description___________________Type ________Basic value
Oil drain plug to oil pan M18 x 1.5 – replace sealing ring Tightening torque 50 Nm (37 ftlb.)
Oil filter cover Replace and grease O-ring Tightening torque 25 Nm (19 ftlb.)
Engine oil change quantity Engine MA 103 / MA 104 Filling capacity with and without filter 7.5 l
Engine quantity for a new engine Engine MA 103/MA 104 Filling capacity 10.1 l
Draining engine oil
→ Let the fluid cool down.
→ Wear personal protective gear.
1. Extend the rear spoiler using the switch on the centre console (ignition on).
2. Open the cap on the service tray by turning it anti-clockwise.
Oil inlet cap and cover on plug
3. Unscrew the oil drain plug at the oil pan (a/f 8 hexagon socket) and drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
3.1. Replace sealing ring.
4. After draining the engine oil, fit the oil drain plug with a new sealing ring.
→ Tightening torque: 50 Nm (37 ftlb.)
5. If the cap is damaged, it must be replaced.
Never use a sharp object to remove or fit the O-ring on the oil filter cover.
Do not scratch the sealing surface of the oil-filter housing.
The oil filter is in the engine compartment:
2. Loosen the oil filter cover at the hexagon (a/f 27).
2.1. Cover adjacent components with clean cloths to prevent oil from dripping onto or into them.
3. Carefully remove the oil filter cover and wipe off residual oil with a cloth.
3.1. Pull the filter element -1- out of the housing using a cloth -2- and wrap it in the cloth.
Filter element
4. Lever off the old O-ring on the oil filter cover by using a plastic spatula.
5. Clean oil filter cover thoroughly inside and out.
5.1. Fit a new O-ring and grease lightly with Klüber Syntheso Glep (Part No. 000.043.204.68).
6. Clean the oil-filter housing -1- with a clean cloth.
Oil-filter housing
7. Fit new filter element - it can be fitted on either side.
8. Screw in the oil filter cover and tighten to the specified torque.
→ Tightening torque: 25 Nm (19 ftlb.)
9. Install engine-compartment blower.
Filling engine oil
1. Place a clean cloth over the generator and drive belt to catch any oil that overflows.
Caution
Incorrect oil level
Damage to engine and catalytic converter.
2. Slowly pour in new engine oil using a clean container or filler nozzle.
Observe the prescribed filling capacity!
Engine oil filling capacities:
→ Filling capacity with and without filter: 7.5 l
→ Filling capacity: 10.1 l
3. Screw on and tighten cap on the service tray.
4. Check engine-oil level.
Location____________________ Description___________________Type ________Basic value
Oil drain plug to oil pan M18 x 1.5 – replace sealing ring Tightening torque 50 Nm (37 ftlb.)
Oil filter cover Replace and grease O-ring Tightening torque 25 Nm (19 ftlb.)
Engine oil change quantity Engine MA 103 / MA 104 Filling capacity with and without filter 7.5 l
Engine quantity for a new engine Engine MA 103/MA 104 Filling capacity 10.1 l
Draining engine oil
→ Let the fluid cool down.
→ Wear personal protective gear.
1. Extend the rear spoiler using the switch on the centre console (ignition on).
2. Open the cap on the service tray by turning it anti-clockwise.
Oil inlet cap and cover on plug
3. Unscrew the oil drain plug at the oil pan (a/f 8 hexagon socket) and drain the engine oil into a suitable container.
3.1. Replace sealing ring.
4. After draining the engine oil, fit the oil drain plug with a new sealing ring.
→ Tightening torque: 50 Nm (37 ftlb.)
5. If the cap is damaged, it must be replaced.
Never use a sharp object to remove or fit the O-ring on the oil filter cover.
Do not scratch the sealing surface of the oil-filter housing.
The oil filter is in the engine compartment:
2. Loosen the oil filter cover at the hexagon (a/f 27).
2.1. Cover adjacent components with clean cloths to prevent oil from dripping onto or into them.
3. Carefully remove the oil filter cover and wipe off residual oil with a cloth.
3.1. Pull the filter element -1- out of the housing using a cloth -2- and wrap it in the cloth.
Filter element
4. Lever off the old O-ring on the oil filter cover by using a plastic spatula.
5. Clean oil filter cover thoroughly inside and out.
5.1. Fit a new O-ring and grease lightly with Klüber Syntheso Glep (Part No. 000.043.204.68).
6. Clean the oil-filter housing -1- with a clean cloth.
Oil-filter housing
7. Fit new filter element - it can be fitted on either side.
8. Screw in the oil filter cover and tighten to the specified torque.
→ Tightening torque: 25 Nm (19 ftlb.)
9. Install engine-compartment blower.
Filling engine oil
1. Place a clean cloth over the generator and drive belt to catch any oil that overflows.
Caution
Incorrect oil level
Damage to engine and catalytic converter.
2. Slowly pour in new engine oil using a clean container or filler nozzle.
Observe the prescribed filling capacity!
Engine oil filling capacities:
→ Filling capacity with and without filter: 7.5 l
→ Filling capacity: 10.1 l
3. Screw on and tighten cap on the service tray.
4. Check engine-oil level.
I will copy the thread in the 991 DIY section.
Thanks
J.
08-07-2012, 02:15 PM
#18
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One more thing. Temperature changes can cause the engine-compartment blower to start up at any time. Given this, always disconnect the plug connection for the rear spoiler before removal. There's a danger of limbs being trapped or severed.
To prevent this unclip the cover at the right-hand side of the engine compartment and disconnect plug connection for the rear spoiler.
To prevent this unclip the cover at the right-hand side of the engine compartment and disconnect plug connection for the rear spoiler.
08-09-2012, 03:23 AM
#19
Changed my oil yesterday, and it was very quick and easy. The fans came off with the cover, which made it a bit faster to take apart, but it was much easier to put the fans back on first then the cover.
It's a tight squeeze to get the top of the oil filter canister out of the engine bay, and some paper towels around the canister helped catch a few drips.
Overall, it was not much harder than my last E36 M3. The pics in this post were very helpful too!
And for those of you who are interested in these things, the car had almost 3,000 miles and three track days. The oil looked pretty clean still and the filter a little dirtier than the oil.
It's a tight squeeze to get the top of the oil filter canister out of the engine bay, and some paper towels around the canister helped catch a few drips.
Overall, it was not much harder than my last E36 M3. The pics in this post were very helpful too!
And for those of you who are interested in these things, the car had almost 3,000 miles and three track days. The oil looked pretty clean still and the filter a little dirtier than the oil.
08-09-2012, 11:49 PM
#20
Race Director
One more thing. Temperature changes can cause the engine-compartment blower to start up at any time. Given this, always disconnect the plug connection for the rear spoiler before removal. There's a danger of limbs being trapped or severed.
To prevent this unclip the cover at the right-hand side of the engine compartment and disconnect plug connection for the rear spoiler.
To prevent this unclip the cover at the right-hand side of the engine compartment and disconnect plug connection for the rear spoiler.
08-10-2012, 12:04 AM
#21
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Mike I'am not sure but, for some reason, this disclaimer is in the 991's workshop manual. From my end , I like the "always treat it as a loaded gun" approach. Disconnected or not, there's no harm in dealing with it as a live fan.
08-10-2012, 01:04 AM
#23
Hi Mike,
I agree with the loaded gun approach and the manual clearly states that they can come on when the engine bay is open.
I disconnected them and removed the fans along with the air intake in order to get access to the oil filter canister. However the fans never came on while the engine was running to warm the oil or when I was finished and was parking the car. But better safe than sorry.
I agree with the loaded gun approach and the manual clearly states that they can come on when the engine bay is open.
I disconnected them and removed the fans along with the air intake in order to get access to the oil filter canister. However the fans never came on while the engine was running to warm the oil or when I was finished and was parking the car. But better safe than sorry.
10-14-2012, 07:18 PM
#24
One more thing. Temperature changes can cause the engine-compartment blower to start up at any time. Given this, always disconnect the plug connection for the rear spoiler before removal. There's a danger of limbs being trapped or severed.
To prevent this unclip the cover at the right-hand side of the engine compartment and disconnect plug connection for the rear spoiler.
To prevent this unclip the cover at the right-hand side of the engine compartment and disconnect plug connection for the rear spoiler.
As for the cover on the right, I noticed that there was what appeared to be safety switch assembly--ie, a ball at the end of a stiff wire which is depressed when the cover is in place--activated by simply removing the cover. Could it be that this obviates the need to disconnect the plug?
Curious as to what other purpose this wire assembly could serve. BTW, I have a 2013, so perhaps this assembly is not on 2012 991's.
Spyder
10-15-2012, 04:44 PM
#25
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Thanks for the oil change and filter change explanation for the 991. My previous Porsche (2005 Boxster) was easy as well; and in my mind more convenient than a visit to the dealer.
Porsche recommends Mobil 1, but my dealer uses Pennzoil (because they pay less for it in bulk).
I don't use either.
In my opinion, if you truly want the best synthetic oil, made especially for your type of driving; I suggest you check out AMSOIL's European formula. I use mid-SAPS SAE 5W-40. It is a Porsche A-40 oil. The other AMSOIL that is Porsche A-40 is the Full-SAPS, SAE-5W-40 and is meant for harder driving, but is less eco-friendly.
I've used AMSOIL in all my vehicles, including my motorcycle and have not found a better product, but it's a bit pricey.
Porsche recommends Mobil 1, but my dealer uses Pennzoil (because they pay less for it in bulk).
I don't use either.
In my opinion, if you truly want the best synthetic oil, made especially for your type of driving; I suggest you check out AMSOIL's European formula. I use mid-SAPS SAE 5W-40. It is a Porsche A-40 oil. The other AMSOIL that is Porsche A-40 is the Full-SAPS, SAE-5W-40 and is meant for harder driving, but is less eco-friendly.
I've used AMSOIL in all my vehicles, including my motorcycle and have not found a better product, but it's a bit pricey.
11-11-2012, 08:35 PM
#26
(I also posted this on the 991 DIY forum.)
I put over 2k mi on my 991 after Z delivery, so following a long-held practice with new cars, I performed the first oil/filter change earlier than scheduled. The OP's write-up was quite helpful, and I must say that despite the $350 my dealer charges for this service, changing the oil on the 991 is easier than on almost all of the other cars I've owned and serviced in recent years. The reason is that there's no belly pan to remove, and the filter is accessed from the top of the engine. Of course, having a lift in my garage makes it that much easier.
Here's some tips that may prove helpful beyond the excellent write-up at the start of this thread....
1. There's a handy filter compatibility chart at http://www.js-filter.com/catalogue/filter/130690/OE0083. Many of these filters are of oem quality and can be had for far less than a dealer would charge, eg, my dealer charged $30 w/o an o ring and crush washer. But, be aware that when these items are included in a kit, they may not fit the 991 b/c the filter itself fits other vehicles. Best bet is probably to go with the suncoast kit.
2. Although precise dis-assembly of the fans and cover is not critical, reassembly should proceed with the fans not attached to the cover. Fitting the fan nipples to the rubber grommets, and the cover to the fan grommets, is far easier that way, and lessens the chance of pushing a grommet through the hole it fits in. Ask me how I know
3. Should you loose a grommet in this process, be aware that there are at least three different sized grommets in the engine compartment, the smallest of which is used for the "Mobile 1" cover on the right side of the engine compartment. This grommet was not correctly shown on the exploded diagram sent to me by suncoast. However, a standard elec grommet--quarter inch I believe--will suffice in a pinch until Porsche corrects the diagram
Spyder
I put over 2k mi on my 991 after Z delivery, so following a long-held practice with new cars, I performed the first oil/filter change earlier than scheduled. The OP's write-up was quite helpful, and I must say that despite the $350 my dealer charges for this service, changing the oil on the 991 is easier than on almost all of the other cars I've owned and serviced in recent years. The reason is that there's no belly pan to remove, and the filter is accessed from the top of the engine. Of course, having a lift in my garage makes it that much easier.
Here's some tips that may prove helpful beyond the excellent write-up at the start of this thread....
1. There's a handy filter compatibility chart at http://www.js-filter.com/catalogue/filter/130690/OE0083. Many of these filters are of oem quality and can be had for far less than a dealer would charge, eg, my dealer charged $30 w/o an o ring and crush washer. But, be aware that when these items are included in a kit, they may not fit the 991 b/c the filter itself fits other vehicles. Best bet is probably to go with the suncoast kit.
2. Although precise dis-assembly of the fans and cover is not critical, reassembly should proceed with the fans not attached to the cover. Fitting the fan nipples to the rubber grommets, and the cover to the fan grommets, is far easier that way, and lessens the chance of pushing a grommet through the hole it fits in. Ask me how I know
3. Should you loose a grommet in this process, be aware that there are at least three different sized grommets in the engine compartment, the smallest of which is used for the "Mobile 1" cover on the right side of the engine compartment. This grommet was not correctly shown on the exploded diagram sent to me by suncoast. However, a standard elec grommet--quarter inch I believe--will suffice in a pinch until Porsche corrects the diagram
Spyder
11-12-2012, 03:30 AM
#28
11-12-2012, 09:42 AM
#29
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I paid $170.00 for my first (early) oil change-not a bad price every 10k miles. I used to do all of my own maintenance, but at my age I have gotten tired of the mess and the work involved.
However, I certainly appreciate the effort that went into this DIY and the subsequent discussion-great job folks! Whether I DIY something or not, I like to know the procedures.
Thank you ncamg
However, I certainly appreciate the effort that went into this DIY and the subsequent discussion-great job folks! Whether I DIY something or not, I like to know the procedures.
Thank you ncamg