Failed PCV tubing?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Failed PCV tubing?
Is this a thing?
While changing the spark plugs we noticed some oil on the outside of the cam sensor and above. Today they removed the plenum and other stuff on the top of the engine and was told that the PCV tubing was deteriorated(ing) and should be replaced. There's no gush of oil and none I can find where I park it in the garage. They said that that had to lower the engine to replace what I believe is $10 part (put probably a $500 Porsche part).
They sent me a video of their inspection.... https://tvidnow.com/mVvJoo5. Tech said tube was "sweating" (I guess oil). Wouldn't you think that they would use tubing that was impervious to oil?
Anybody ever had this happen.
it's a 2012 C2 991.1 with 109,000
While changing the spark plugs we noticed some oil on the outside of the cam sensor and above. Today they removed the plenum and other stuff on the top of the engine and was told that the PCV tubing was deteriorated(ing) and should be replaced. There's no gush of oil and none I can find where I park it in the garage. They said that that had to lower the engine to replace what I believe is $10 part (put probably a $500 Porsche part).
They sent me a video of their inspection.... https://tvidnow.com/mVvJoo5. Tech said tube was "sweating" (I guess oil). Wouldn't you think that they would use tubing that was impervious to oil?
Anybody ever had this happen.
it's a 2012 C2 991.1 with 109,000
Last edited by rnl; 08-10-2024 at 05:40 PM.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I did some digging and it looks like it would not be a good project for me. I stopped the video instructions at "drill out the rivets"
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm
#5
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
#7
Rennlist Member
On a scale of 10, that is a 1 or 2 to replace those plastic hoses.
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#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#9
Rennlist Member
#10
Personally, I would just leave it unless you're doing something else major like a clutch job and/or water pump, etc. PCV hoses, so crankcase ventilation, are going from the valve cover to the air oil separator to the intake. If the hose were actually cracked and created a significant vacuum leak, then I'd put some urgency on it. Even then, the engine likely wouldn't care much. Your engine bay would just get dirty from some oil mist leaking out.
What I see specifically happening here is some oil seeping past this nylon hose to barb joint interface. These types of joints when dealing with liquid typically have an o-ring under there, integrated on the barb. I don't know if they would have spec'd an o-ring in this joint being PCV. But anyway, in my opinion, it's not ideal but no big deal. If there were any actual crack in the hose, in the corrugated section, I'd put some more urgency on it, but I still wouldn't pay to drop the engine JUST for the PCV hoses.
What I see specifically happening here is some oil seeping past this nylon hose to barb joint interface. These types of joints when dealing with liquid typically have an o-ring under there, integrated on the barb. I don't know if they would have spec'd an o-ring in this joint being PCV. But anyway, in my opinion, it's not ideal but no big deal. If there were any actual crack in the hose, in the corrugated section, I'd put some more urgency on it, but I still wouldn't pay to drop the engine JUST for the PCV hoses.
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks. I’ll look into having the water
pump and other preventative maintenance done. It has a lot mileage since it was delivered in June 2012
This is only the second extraordinary repair in 109000 miles. The first was the replacement of cam sensors
pump and other preventative maintenance done. It has a lot mileage since it was delivered in June 2012
This is only the second extraordinary repair in 109000 miles. The first was the replacement of cam sensors
Last edited by rnl; 08-11-2024 at 06:21 PM.
#12
I am not certain about this particular hose, but I did change the PCV hose coming off the AOS (on the right side) and it was annoying but I wouldn't call it major repair. Nor were the Cam sensors, they were extremely easy to change when I was doing my plugs and coils. That said, yes, you need to lower the engine but that too was not a complicated procedure. I found that the ribbed plastic hose coming off the AOS returning to the air intake had a small crack. I bought the part at FCP for about $80. Lowered the engine, changed my MAP sensor and the hose, took me about 2 hours total. If you're handy and have the tools, you can do it in your garage. Curiously, these hoses are brittle - hard plastic and high heat, doesn't seem like a perfect combo. I wouldn't call either major repairs though. However, a crack or leak here can cause vacuum leak and rough/unsteady idle. Worth changing.
#13
similar connection and hose failed on my master cylinder. took 5 minutes to replace but with age comes hose/rubber failures. At an indy guessing this is a sub $500 job including the hoses. Nice of the dealer to diagnose it for you so you can get it fixed reasonable.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
The car was repaired at the shop. All of the hoses are cracked and leaking. They were replaced. The idle is now smooth and oil leaks were resolved. Thanks all for your input and advice.
Last edited by rnl; 08-15-2024 at 01:26 PM.