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I have the car stripped down, and all I need to do is remove the last two lines. I got the bottom oil lines and the side coolant lines, but the oil lines on the top feel like they're bonded to the turbo. The bottom lines took probably 2-3 hours each to get removed. I have about 2-3 hours on the top ones and they still haven't moved. I have tried heat, prying with soft wood, penetrating oil, tapping a thin screw driver under the plate, prying and tapping at the same time. Nothing is making them budge an iota. Respect to Porsche for creating the worlds greatest seal with those o-rings. Car has about 45,000 miles and isn't corroded etc.
Man I have heard about those lines and how much of a pain they are to remove. I have not gone through it yet, but curious to see how you get them out. Have you tried to heat it to the point where it melts the o ring?
Man I have heard about those lines and how much of a pain they are to remove. I have not gone through it yet, but curious to see how you get them out. Have you tried to heat it to the point where it melts the o ring?
I don't want to risk melting the rubber and having any debris get into the port. I'd say the turbo and stainless was 100-200.
Do you think they have a loctite that needs heat to break to bond? Definitely not LH thread?
They aren't threaded. It's smooth bore with two o-rings in each. There's a metal tab attached to the line that when assembled mounts flush to the turbo and a retaining bolt runs through a hole in the tab into the turbo.
I haven't done it myself, but this is what I'd try. There should be some clearance between the piston of the oil feed line and the bore of the center housing because there are o-rings in there after all. I would place a flathead screwdriver on the edge of the flat plate and give it a decent hit with a hammer. So not trying to pry the plate up, but actually hit it from the side to break lose fitting.
I haven't done it myself, but this is what I'd try. There should be some clearance between the piston of the oil feed line and the bore of the center housing because there are o-rings in there after all. I would place a flathead screwdriver on the edge of the flat plate and give it a decent hit with a hammer. So not trying to pry the plate up, but actually hit it from the side to break lose fitting.
Tried this, and there's no movement. I'm amazed at how stuck they are.
Man, I'm glad I started with a GTS. More than enough power for me if I decide to tune.
At this point, I think heat is the only option. Get a temp gun and just make sure it stays below 300 deg. F. The conductive heat on the O-ring may actually be less. Turbochargers on other cars I worked on in the past all had viton o-rings. Can't imagine being less than that for a turbocharger.
Well damn...... might have to use heat then. I'd put a wet rag on the oil feed line and apply heat to the center housing. And then hit it with the flat head and hammer.
where and how do the lines that are stuck attach on the other end?? If the other end is easy or easier to remove why not remove the turbos with the line attached. Then you can remove the turbo side connection with the turbos off the car. If they are cheep enough maybe replace those two lines
I believe this is the line that's causing all the problems. The other end of the line is up on top center of the engine near the flywheel area. Can't really reach it without dropping/lowering the engine down a little.
That is correct, and thank you Mark, you have been very helpful in the PMs about this challenge. I love when industry professional take time to help strangers for no benefit other than helping the community. It shows who is in it for the profit and who is in it for the people.
The only line you can easily remove from both ends is one of the oil lines on the bottom, which goes a foot or two over to the oil pan. Those were the only lines that removed from the turbo. I have a mechanic coming over wednesday or thursday this week to help out. I'll try incrementing the temp on the heat gun and see what we can manage. I've been shooting PB Blaster on it, so if anyone has a better penetrating oil to suggest I'll try to get a can and use it. I might try a full kay of keyboard cleaner on the line itself. When you turn it upside down and spray the liquid rather than gas it can get below 0F quickly. I'll obvious do one or the other at a time and not heat the aluminum and SS to 300 degree then immediately drop it to 0, though the cracks that would make would likely let the line pop out.
Originally Posted by 991.two
I believe this is the line that's causing all the problems. The other end of the line is up on top center of the engine near the flywheel area. Can't really reach it without dropping/lowering the engine down a little.
Looking at a turbo I have there, there are two tapped holes on each side of the oil supply port. Can adding a fastener arrangement improve prying leverage on that line? My guess is that they use those taps as means to press that line into place? If that's true, there may be a removal too or other trick for using those holes as a means for removal as well.
Like you I would be hesitant with the heat. If you can bring the CHRA up to ~250° and then apply a wet/frozen face cloth to the line, that would probably give you your maximum thermal variance for reducing the interference fit.
12-11-2020 | 11:12 PM
991.2 turbo upgrade, lines stuck
