martopoulos

So, I'm starting a pretty crazy LED headlight/PDLS+ retrofit project based on the great guide written by chris2. I've run into one issue, though. On a factory configuration, the LED headlights have TERM 15 connections running to the driver-side fusebox, Row D, in positions 3 and 8 (15 amps each). Unfortunately, there are no fuses in those positions, and all the existing fuses are 5 amp (see pic below). I'm pretty new to this, so here's a dumb question: row D, positions 1 and 3 seem to have receptacles (?) for a fuse, is it possible they're already wired and ready to go? Could I just stick a fuse tap in the empty slot and that's it? The PIWIS II wiring diagram shows that both 1 and 3 would be fitted with a 15 amp fuse when they're actually in use (by a rear windshield wiper and a headlight, respectively). What options do I have here? My car is in a shop at the moment, but I'll be probing the empty slots for signs of life when it's returned to me.

(Note that this is actually a 718 Cayman fuse box, but since this forum is way more active and this is more of a general electrical question, I'm reposting here. My apologies if that offends anyone).

BIGWORM

Not sure if this helps you. But when I added my dash camera system, I had noticed that I had open fuse ports. I believe the open ones only had ONE top connection but not the bottom one. I could be wrong. But I seem to think Porsche gave power to all the fuse ports, but if you dont have whatever option for that port, then a bottom connection (of the two for a fuse) was missing. I could be wrong. But I remember thinking how odd it was that most fuse ports have a top and bottom connection and some (the empty ones) only had a top part.

martopoulos

Interesting. So, does that mean they're not usable in their top-only setup? Or what would I have to do? I found this thread for a similar situation-- someone talks about putting a fuse in only the top connection, but I'm not sure how that works-- would you have to remove one of the fuse's blades (!?): https://dashcamtalk.com/forum/thread...ot-fuse.30254/

Cheshi143

I always prefer to run a relay for each of the items that I intend to power and only draw current from the fuse box to power the coil on the relay. This keeps the added on electronics away from the draw of the vehicle current.

This is not my video but it is an explanation of how to do it. I will connect my power source for the lighting direct to the battery with a 15 AMP inline fuse and draw the power for the relay coil off of a 5 AMP fused circuit from the fuse box. This makes it quick, clean, and fully reversible. You can get a 5 AMP micro fuse tap pretty cheaply.

martopoulos

This seems like a good idea. Can I use a single relay for my two headlights plus a 5 amp module that also needs power? Where/how would you mount the relay in the car?

If I'm understanding the video/you, instead of a headlight switch powering the relay, it'd be an ignition switched 5 amp fuse tap, right?