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Sorry, I have owned 6 Porsches purchased when new. I am now 75 yoa and bought my first when I was 40 yoa. The first was in 1974 and the current is the 2015 GTS you see in the avatar. Please look at the avatar that advertises my former Porsches with a website you can visit. They all functioned well with the formulas I suggest. I believe my 45 years of dealing with Porsches must not be worth your evaluation. Thanks. Let's wish for 45 more years of Porsches.
Dr. M
I’ll drink to that. I wish I had your experience. I spent most of my time with muscle cars and hot rods. Really enjoying this one. My wife and I drove 300 miles yesterday just for fun. A lot of curvy roads.
I just use soap and water, I do however dry the car with a high powered left blower and I don’t get rust on the rotors as they are blown dry.
I tried soap and water, but doesn't really get the wheel completely clean. I just bought a different type of wheel brush, will try it again. Leaf blower works great!
I tried soap and water, but doesn't really get the wheel completely clean. I just bought a different type of wheel brush, will try it again. Leaf blower works great!
If you coat your wheels with a quality nano coating like Optimum Gloss Coat ($80 for 20cc on Amazon), all you need to wash with is warm soapy water. No wheel cleaners . Dry with the MasterBlaster.
I say use whatever works for you that doesn't screw up your wheels or brakes. I have tried several miracle cleaners, some that worked well and some that didn't work at all. Best for me was Colortech from Einszette and Nano.
Now that I have PCCB's I'll never be able to go back.
Sorry, I have owned 6 Porsches purchased when new. I am now 75 yoa and bought my first when I was 40 yoa. The first was in 1974 and the current is the 2015 GTS you see in the avatar. Please look at the avatar that advertises my former Porsches with a website you can visit. They all functioned well with the formulas I suggest. I believe my 45 years of dealing with Porsches must not be worth your evaluation. Thanks. Let's wish for 45 more years of Porsches.
Dr. M
I have seen rust-dust on my wheels after driving when the disks got especially rusty.
Your brakes WILL rust after washing your car and/or wheels. The simplest thing to do is DRIVE THE CAR immediately after it is dry. The friction from application of the brakes will dry the rotors and thus prevent rust. I do not do this since the rust comes off as soon as you apply the brakes to a car with rusted rotors. Also, I use Windex to clean my wheels. It is cheap and does a great job.
I do this, too, but sometimes the wash is just the start of a more involved detail sequence. And then I prefer not to drive, and pick up a bit of dust or dirt.
My PPF/Ceramic installer recommended Cool Guys and he gave me a bottle to try and it worked great; however, that was before I had the PCCBs installed. I know everyone has something to recommend but I probably tried everything before that stuff and none worked as well. If it matters the wheels were coated with Opticoat Pro.
And I used to take a quick drive to dry the rotors, which did eliminate the rotor rust but it did show up on my black wheels so they needed a quick wipe.
When I wash the wheels, I just go once around the neighborhood loop before putting it away, and that seems to solve the rust problem. One valuable lesson I learned last year is definitely don't forget the drive around before putting the car away for an extended period of time. I did just that last year before parking the car when I left for my summer place in NH. When I got back almost 3 months later, and drove it for the first time, I heard this horrible noise backing out of the garage seemingly coming from under the car. It sounded really bad, like I was dragging a body under the car, or some such thing.
I stopped, and looked under the car, but didn't see anything. After continuing on it quickly became obvious it was the brakes making the noise. It kept getting better as I went along, but it was a good 10 miles of stop & go before it went away completely. I'll be putting it away again in a couple of weeks,so you can rest assured I'll make certain the rotors are dry & rust free this time.
FYI, Simple Green is used to clean returned carbon/carbon aircraft brakes and wheels prior to their service/overhaul at Goodrich commercial aircraft brakes service centers throughout the world, so it's pretty good "stuff." Personally, on cars I owned before my recent purchase of my first Porsche, a CPO 2017 C2S, I've found that coating the wheels [painted and clear-coated aluminum] with one of the modern "nano ceramic" coatings works wonders compared to any other wax or sealants I have tried. As others have noted, you can generally simply wash the nano coated wheels with the same car wash soap solution you use for the rest of the car. And for me, the biggest advantage of the nano coating reveals itself after the winter wheels are taken off... much much easier to clean them up after a full winter season compared to any other waxes or sealants I have tried in the past >20 years. Yet I still like Sonax's smelly [mercapans?] wheel cleaner that chemically reacts with any iron particles on the wheels and brake calipers.
As others have noted, it is very important with many brake pad compositions and iron-based rotors to thoroughly dry your brakes before storing the car. I made the mistake of not doing so on my Audi S4 equipped with StopTech ST-60 front brakes and their 'Street Performane" pads which are semi-metallic and letting the car sit for nearly a week in my garage. Big mistake! The localized galvanic corrosion was so great where the pads were in contact with the rotors that I had to have them turned after suffering with pulsating brakes despite driving over 1000 miles on them expecting them to clean up. I suffered through one HPDE with those rotors, too, which caused a lot of steering wheel judder. Now I always take care to ensure the brakes are fully dry before parking/storing my cars, and chose to let a bit of brake dust lie on the wheels et al rather than risk damaged rotors and pulsing brakes and steering judder.
My PPF installer said to avoid Simple Green, or heavily dilute it, if using it on wheels that have been coated. As I said, he recommended Cool Guys (or Sonax) to be safe. I tend to agree since there are a lot of cleaners these days formulated for specific uses so why take the chance with a general cleaner.
Try P&S Brake Buster.. I've gone crazy with detailing my 911.. Adams Wheel Cleaner is probably more powerful, but has the iron remover that turns purple and instantly rusts my rotors. Brake Buster is cheap and really good.. give it a try.
Second brake buster, after going through all the usual suspects just bought another 4 gallons of it. I use 3.5 oz, the rest water, in an IK foamer, very economical and works great.
Not sure what the PH of Simple Green is but it seems non-PH neutral cleaners will fade the centerlock nuts. I used an alkaline one when I first got my car and quickly faded all four.
06-09-2019, 04:55 PM
