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Two Year Maintenance DIY Sanity Check

Old 04-06-2019, 07:41 PM
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Wujohn
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Default Two Year Maintenance DIY Sanity Check

Hi All,

Spent the day reading through DIY threads to change my oil and brake fluid for my two year service. Originally didn't want to do it myself - stopped changing my own oil and brakes pads/fluid years ago but after getting a $900 quote from Porsche (with PCA discount) and a nearly $700 quote from an indy, I figured I could make a few investments and do this myself. Added benefit is I'd be prepared for other minor work like changing brake pads, rotors, ceramic coating my rims, etc. I am looking for a sanity check to make sure I am not forgetting anything as I don't want to get half way through and then figure out I need something else. I still need to sort out how I am going to reset the maintenance reminder so feel free to suggest something.

Slightly related - is it OK to keep my car on jack stands for a weekend? Not sure how long it will take me to clean and ceramic coat the rims but since the wheels will be off, might as well do it at the same time.

Special thanks to Jnosol and Alex_C
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/9568...procedure.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1081...o-991-2-a.html

Brake Fluid change
I plan on doing the dry method as most say it works well even if that is not how the bleeder was designed.
-Motiv Power bleeder
-Motiv Brake Fluid Catch Bottle Kit
-11mm wrench for bleeder valve
-Castrol SRF - is a liter bottle sufficient?

Oil Change
- Drain plug tool
- New drain plug, filter and filter cap gasket
- 2 5Q 0W40 Mobil 1 Oil - Is there a better option for So Cal?
- Drain pan - Any suggestions?
- 36mm low profile filter socket for filter cap

Other Items
- Neiko Breaker Bar
- Tekton Torque Wrench
- Ares 19mm protective sleeve lug socket (might use zip lock bag too, just in case)
- one hockey puck for jack
- 4 Porsche Polyurethane Jack Pads (I like that these go in the hole at the jack points)
- Esco Jack Stands (Just cannot part with $600 for Jackpoint Jack Stands, thought they are sexy)
- 2 wheel chocks
- 3 Ton Aluminum low profile jack from Costco
- 2 Wheel mounting guide bolts

Total cost est $600 with many items obviously reusable for future work.

Thanks for the feedback - I know this is easy work but want to confirm I have not missed something.

Last edited by Wujohn; 04-06-2019 at 09:07 PM.
Old 04-06-2019, 07:52 PM
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LexVan
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You're fine on the jack stands for that time period.

Mobil 5W50 would be a great choice for SoCal.
Old 04-06-2019, 07:52 PM
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minthral
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Do you really need the jack pads? I don't see dealers or anyone use them. I have need wood blocks used though.

Motul has a compatible engine oil. I know its subjective, but it seems to run smoother. Back when I did research, mobil 1 is more 'eco,' meaning 'environmental' (aka missing stuff) ...cheap heavily marketed stuff. Motul has better cold perf, which is where it counts because cold starts are most of wear.
Old 04-06-2019, 08:28 PM
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LexVan
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Stop using a hockey puck as a jack pad. Buy a proper jack pad with a centering bolt/mechanism. I use on from Rennline. One of many quality offerings available.
Old 04-06-2019, 08:40 PM
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Wujohn
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Originally Posted by LexVan
Stop using a hockey puck as a jack pad. Buy a proper jack pad with a centering bolt/mechanism. I use on from Rennline. One of many quality offerings available.
Thanks -question on this.

I have to jack up one side of the car to place the jack stand with jack pad on top (proper jack pad) so I necessarily have to place the jack next to, but not at the jack point. Is that OK? That is why I am considering a hockey puck for the jack because there would be no place for the little nubbin to go to if I'm not right on the jack point.

Jeez I wish I wasn't so cheap as the jackpoint stand would solve this problem.
Old 04-06-2019, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by minthral
Do you really need the jack pads? I don't see dealers or anyone use them. I have need wood blocks used though.

Motul has a compatible engine oil. I know its subjective, but it seems to run smoother. Back when I did research, mobil 1 is more 'eco,' meaning 'environmental' (aka missing stuff) ...cheap heavily marketed stuff. Motul has better cold perf, which is where it counts because cold starts are most of wear.
I just switched to Motul X-Cess 8100 5W40 as recommended by a PCA member/Porsche Mechanic who owns his shop. I noticed my engine is running 5-9 degrees cooler after the first 100 miles on fresh oil in normal mode. I just sent an oil sample (Mobil1 0W40) to Blackstone Labs for analysis and plan to do a comparison at my next oil change.
Old 04-06-2019, 08:59 PM
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Wujohn
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Originally Posted by Sidvicious7
I just switched to Motul X-Cess 8100 5W40 as recommended by a PCA member/Porsche Mechanic who owns his shop. I noticed my engine is running 5-9 degrees cooler after the first 100 miles on fresh oil in normal mode. I just sent an oil sample (Mobil1 0W40) to Blackstone Labs for analysis and plan to do a comparison at my next oil change.
Originally Posted by minthral
Do you really need the jack pads? I don't see dealers or anyone use them. I have need wood blocks used though.

Motul has a compatible engine oil. I know its subjective, but it seems to run smoother. Back when I did research, mobil 1 is more 'eco,' meaning 'environmental' (aka missing stuff) ...cheap heavily marketed stuff. Motul has better cold perf, which is where it counts because cold starts are most of wear.
Thanks - will check out Motul. As far as jack pads, they are cheap so why not.
Old 04-06-2019, 09:03 PM
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I use Motul x cess 5w40 as well has more zinc
Old 04-06-2019, 09:17 PM
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A liter of brake fluid should be enough. Having a extra liter doesn't hurt. Use a large plastic bag to unscrew the filter housing. Suggest nitrite gloves. The oil stream will initially be strong and hot. I let mine drain for 20 minutes. I like to use a large open top oil drain pan that I can lift to catch the initial oil stream and transfer to a combination drain/storage container. The combination drain pan and storage containers tend to splash. You have more oil than you need so be careful not to overfill. I purposely fill at least a 1/2 quart short and top off if needed. You need PIWIS or Durametric to reset the maintenance reminder. I use Mobil 1 5W50, but it is only available in quarts. Summit Racing is a good source. There are many others with much more experience who hopefully can give you some other tips.
Old 04-06-2019, 09:53 PM
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Bob Z.
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Originally Posted by LexVan
Stop using a hockey puck as a jack pad. Buy a proper jack pad with a centering bolt/mechanism. I use on from Rennline. One of many quality offerings available.
There is a member that makes them here for just over $50 a set, which my shop used and said they worked perfectly. PM him for details: the911guy@hotmail.com
Old 04-07-2019, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by minthral
Do you really need the jack pads? I don't see dealers or anyone use them. I have need wood blocks used though.

Motul has a compatible engine oil. I know its subjective, but it seems to run smoother. Back when I did research, mobil 1 is more 'eco,' meaning 'environmental' (aka missing stuff) ...cheap heavily marketed stuff. Motul has better cold perf, which is where it counts because cold starts are most of wear.
"missing stuff" doesn't make M1 more eco- and I think the Motul would be at a slight DISadvantage with regard to cold start performance. M1 probably has slightly better friction reduction for cold startups, which is why I switched back to it after using in my 997. Even though I live in LA, like SD, it never really gets scorching hot near the ocean where I live and I'd much rather have that flow advantage of the 0W weight when I first start in the morning. Last month I averaged 31.5 mpg on my drive down to San Diego (freeway speed+) in my C4S- I'd say the M1 was letting things operate fairly friction free.

I only have 3.500 miles on this vehicle, so I'll see what Blackstone says about wear after a bit more break-in.
Old 04-07-2019, 12:29 PM
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You might save a bit on the jack. 3 tons is more than needed. I have a 1.5 ton aluminum Harbor Freight jack that is light and useful for track travel purposes.
Old 04-07-2019, 01:37 PM
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Wujohn
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Originally Posted by Pep!RRRR
You might save a bit on the jack. 3 tons is more than needed. I have a 1.5 ton aluminum Harbor Freight jack that is light and useful for track travel purposes.
Yeah, this one is $30 more than the one from HF but it lifts about 4" higher. Not sure if I need that or not but better safe than sorry. The jack stands I am getting are a bit taller than normal so I am erring on the side of caution. Thanks for looking out though!
Old 04-07-2019, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Wujohn
Thanks -question on this.

I have to jack up one side of the car to place the jack stand with jack pad on top (proper jack pad) so I necessarily have to place the jack next to, but not at the jack point. Is that OK? That is why I am considering a hockey puck for the jack because there would be no place for the little nubbin to go to if I'm not right on the jack point.

Jeez I wish I wasn't so cheap as the jackpoint stand would solve this problem.
Skip a few Starbucks Espressos and get a set of JPs. It will hurt for only a few minutes. Thereafter you can rest easy knowing that you’ve got arguably the safest and easiest to use jacks stands on the market. I changed to summer wheels yesterday. Here are before and after pics (taken last year). Getting the car up and down is simple, with no guesswork



Last edited by Nin Din Din; 04-09-2019 at 08:06 PM.
Old 04-07-2019, 02:45 PM
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Wow, love those stands, I need to get 2 sets of those. So is the recommendation to have two jacks and have a helper on the other side of the car so as to lift the front end of the car at the same time, and again with the rear? I need to read more about brake fuild flushing so I will get brave enough to do it myself in 4 months.

Last edited by titan7; 04-08-2019 at 02:56 AM.

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