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PTS-BRG's custom sub add looks to be the Ultimate!
Since this thread will top search-lists for owners looking to add an outboard sub, I am adding the details of my simpler JLA sub-box add; it fits beautifully on the rear shelf of my '18 TTS.
I'm extremely happy with the results of doing the Bose upgrade trifecta of: replace tweeters with Musicar kit, disconnect stock centerchannel and sub, add outboard sub.
The details of this sub- add are: First, keep in mind that on 991.1 cars, the small factory sub amp is up in the passenger dash or footwell area somewhere, and is separate from the main amp under the passenger seat. In a 991.2 car like mine, the sub amp is integrated into the main amp under the seat.
I used an Audio Control LC2i converter, which takes the speaker-level signals from the Bose amp and converts to line-level for the sub amp. I identified that the correct sub speaker wires to tap off the Bose amp are: + lead is YE RD (yellow w red stripe), and - lead is YE BN (yellow w brown stripe). To further confirm you have the right wires - most of the wires exiting the amp are smaller, probably 18 gauge. The sub wires are larger, probably 16 gauge, and are near the end of the Bose harness that is closer to the passenger door.
The LC2i has extra circuitry called "Accubass" that is intended to add back the lowest frequencies, if one has a factory amp that cuts them out to protect the cheap factory sub. I thought this was a nice feature to have available, but during install testing, I determined that the Bose amp does not cut/limit low frequency output. So just turn the Accubass control fully counterclockwise for off, and adjust the device's output level with the control labeled "Bass".
The LC2i can also generate a remote-on signal for the amp, so I didn't need to find a remote feed on the stock system. For main power lead to the new amp, I tapped the remote battery source in the passenger footwell. For the sub-amp I used a JL Audio 600/1 XD that I had around from a prior install. For the speaker I bought a JL Audio PowerWedge CS112LG-TW3.
The coupe is much easier to add a sub because it is an open deck. On the targa and convertibles, the top folds down into the recessed deck lid, thus removing any space.
You could have probably put two subs in that deck lid! In the end, these systems are really not very good and to get good sound you need to do a lot of component swapping.
PTS-BRG's custom sub add looks to be the Ultimate!
Since this thread will top search-lists for owners looking to add an outboard sub, I am adding the details of my simpler JLA sub-box add; it fits beautifully on the rear shelf of my '18 TTS.
I'm extremely happy with the results of doing the Bose upgrade trifecta of: replace tweeters with Musicar kit, disconnect stock centerchannel and sub, add outboard sub.
The details of this sub- add are: I used an Audio Control LC2i converter, which takes the speaker-level signals from the Bose amp and converts to line-level for the sub amp. I identified that the correct sub speaker wires to tap off the Bose amp are: + lead is YE RD (yellow w red stripe), and - lead is YE BN (yellow w brown stripe). To further confirm you have the right wires - most of the wires exiting the amp are smaller, probably 18 gauge. The sub wires are larger, probably 16 gauge, and are near the end of the Bose harness that is closer to the passenger door.
The LC2i has extra circuitry called "Accubass" that is intended to add back the lowest frequencies, if one has a factory amp that cuts them out to protect the cheap factory sub. I thought this was a nice feature to have available, but during install testing, I determined that the Bose amp does not cut/limit low frequency output. So just turn the Accubass control fully counterclockwise for off, and adjust the device's output level with the control labeled "Bass".
The LC2i can also generate a remote-on signal for the amp, so I didn't need to find a remote feed on the stock system. For main power lead to the new amp, I tapped the remote battery source in the passenger footwell. For the sub-amp I used a JL Audio 600/1 XD that I had around from a prior install. For the speaker I bought a JL Audio PowerWedge CS112LG-TW3.
This is basically what I did except I used the amplifier that came in the JL 10” sub box. Big improvement but not as good as the JL stealth sub I had in my ZR1. But this box can be removed and resold at trade in. I am waiting on the Musiccar Bose upgrade for the 991.1. It’s long overdue!
I spent thousands on exhaust mods, Im Not wasting additional thousands to cover up that sound. My days of chasing stereo upgrades in cars ended in the 90s.
Audio Control LC2I tapped into factory Bose amp and interfacing with JL Audio JX500/1 amp feeding JL Audio 10TW3 in a custom built box added the low end for which I was looking. Musicar’s Dynaudio tweeters increased the musical experience.
I had most of these components from a previous M4 install.
PTS-BRG's custom sub add looks to be the Ultimate!
Since this thread will top search-lists for owners looking to add an outboard sub, I am adding the details of my simpler JLA sub-box add; it fits beautifully on the rear shelf of my '18 TTS.
I'm extremely happy with the results of doing the Bose upgrade trifecta of: replace tweeters with Musicar kit, disconnect stock centerchannel and sub, add outboard sub.
The details of this sub- add are: First, keep in mind that on 991.1 cars, the small factory sub amp is up in the passenger dash or footwell area somewhere, and is separate from the main amp under the passenger seat. In a 991.2 car like mine, the sub amp is integrated into the main amp under the seat.
I used an Audio Control LC2i converter, which takes the speaker-level signals from the Bose amp and converts to line-level for the sub amp. I identified that the correct sub speaker wires to tap off the Bose amp are: + lead is YE RD (yellow w red stripe), and - lead is YE BN (yellow w brown stripe). To further confirm you have the right wires - most of the wires exiting the amp are smaller, probably 18 gauge. The sub wires are larger, probably 16 gauge, and are near the end of the Bose harness that is closer to the passenger door.
The LC2i has extra circuitry called "Accubass" that is intended to add back the lowest frequencies, if one has a factory amp that cuts them out to protect the cheap factory sub. I thought this was a nice feature to have available, but during install testing, I determined that the Bose amp does not cut/limit low frequency output. So just turn the Accubass control fully counterclockwise for off, and adjust the device's output level with the control labeled "Bass".
The LC2i can also generate a remote-on signal for the amp, so I didn't need to find a remote feed on the stock system. For main power lead to the new amp, I tapped the remote battery source in the passenger footwell. For the sub-amp I used a JL Audio 600/1 XD that I had around from a prior install. For the speaker I bought a JL Audio PowerWedge CS112LG-TW3.
Thanks very much, I've been looking for the answer to the sub wiring for quite some time now. How do you have the box secured on the rear deck?
Last edited by vector01; 07-25-2020 at 01:50 PM.
Reason: mispelling
Thanks for all the prior advice and I wanted to add my install pictures. My 2016 991 did not have a backup camera OR Bose and my wife actually said it needed upgraded right after we obtained it.
I built the Subwoofer box and was going for a retro feel of speakers on the back deck of a car and went with 2 JL Audio 8 inch subs. I had to raise the back part for clearance and honestly could have gotten the headliner material perfect as this was the 2nd attempt and the prior vinyl that matched the sprayed grills did not work well. I could have resprayed them to match, but I liked the contrast. The corners are barely above the seats because of the rounded edges, but you don't see it because of the seat belts.
Thanks for all the prior advice and I wanted to add my install pictures. My 2016 991 did not have a backup camera OR Bose and my wife actually said it needed upgraded right after we obtained it.
I built the Subwoofer box and was going for a retro feel of speakers on the back deck of a car and went with 2 JL Audio 8 inch subs. I had to raise the back part for clearance and honestly could have gotten the headliner material perfect as this was the 2nd attempt and the prior vinyl that matched the sprayed grills did not work well. I could have resprayed them to match, but I liked the contrast. The corners are barely above the seats because of the rounded edges, but you don't see it because of the seat belts.
Did you have Bose? If so did you tap into the existing system? I’m looking for a way to tap in without cutting anything.
Did you have Bose? If so did you tap into the existing system? I’m looking for a way to tap in without cutting anything.
See post #31. I believe that answers your question. I'm also looking to tap into the original Bose system to add a sub like this, just haven't gotten to that part of my mod list yet.
I have a Burmester in my 2016 coupe, and it's good enough but having a sub in the rear would be excellent. I added a boxed JL sub and amp along with the Audio Control unit too. The results were amazing.
I'd like to add a sub but wonder if there is anything different with the Burmester.
I have a Burmester in my 2016 coupe, and it's good enough but having a sub in the rear would be excellent. I added a boxed JL sub and amp along with the Audio Control unit too. The results were amazing.
I'd like to add a sub but wonder if there is anything different with the Burmester.
I would just run a signal wire from the Sub amp for the Burm, my assumption is it's the same spot under the passenger side dash as the Bose sub amp. Use that Audio Control unit to un equalize whatever curve they are applying to their sub and it should be the same performance as you had in your Bose Equipped car. Or you can grab a signal wire from the amp under the passanger side seat and use the Audio Control Unit to restore the bass frequencies that are filtered out from the door woofers.
To my knowledge the config from the bose to burm are the same. One amp with built in DSP for the mids/tweets/etc and one seperate amp for the sub that is built inside the drivers side dash near the steering wheel.
PTS-BRG's custom sub add looks to be the Ultimate!
Since this thread will top search-lists for owners looking to add an outboard sub, I am adding the details of my simpler JLA sub-box add; it fits beautifully on the rear shelf of my '18 TTS.
I'm extremely happy with the results of doing the Bose upgrade trifecta of: replace tweeters with Musicar kit, disconnect stock centerchannel and sub, add outboard sub.
The details of this sub- add are: First, keep in mind that on 991.1 cars, the small factory sub amp is up in the passenger dash or footwell area somewhere, and is separate from the main amp under the passenger seat. In a 991.2 car like mine, the sub amp is integrated into the main amp under the seat.
I used an Audio Control LC2i converter, which takes the speaker-level signals from the Bose amp and converts to line-level for the sub amp. I identified that the correct sub speaker wires to tap off the Bose amp are: + lead is YE RD (yellow w red stripe), and - lead is YE BN (yellow w brown stripe). To further confirm you have the right wires - most of the wires exiting the amp are smaller, probably 18 gauge. The sub wires are larger, probably 16 gauge, and are near the end of the Bose harness that is closer to the passenger door.
The LC2i has extra circuitry called "Accubass" that is intended to add back the lowest frequencies, if one has a factory amp that cuts them out to protect the cheap factory sub. I thought this was a nice feature to have available, but during install testing, I determined that the Bose amp does not cut/limit low frequency output. So just turn the Accubass control fully counterclockwise for off, and adjust the device's output level with the control labeled "Bass".
The LC2i can also generate a remote-on signal for the amp, so I didn't need to find a remote feed on the stock system. For main power lead to the new amp, I tapped the remote battery source in the passenger footwell. For the sub-amp I used a JL Audio 600/1 XD that I had around from a prior install. For the speaker I bought a JL Audio PowerWedge CS112LG-TW3.
A few questions…
1. Where exactly is that power source in the footwell?
2. Did you have to splice the wires from the harness to get the leads from the front left/right to the LC2i?
3. How did you disconnect the CC and Sub?
4. Does the LC2i basically redirect bass below a certain frequency from the fronts to the subwoofer (alleviating the load on the front speakers)?
1. Where exactly is that power source in the footwell?
2. Did you have to splice the wires from the harness to get the leads from the front left/right to the LC2i?
3. How did you disconnect the CC and Sub?
4. Does the LC2i basically redirect bass below a certain frequency from the fronts to the subwoofer (alleviating the load on the front speakers)?
Just installed the LC2i and Amplified Subwoofer (I went with Rockford Fosgate Punch 8") to my 991.2 today using the details in this thread. Special thanks to @Beezupra for all the helpful details and pics. Love the sound now with the Musicar tweeters, CC disconnect and new sub. Just needed that extra little thump to improve the sound. Now I'm just messing around with the LC2i and amp settings to get the sound/bass just right.
To answer your questions based on my installation:
1. The power source is in the passenger footwell all the way in the front left corner. Pull up the carpet and you'll see the thick gauge red and black wire. I tapped into the red and ran my power to the amp.
2. No splicing. I used t-taps to tap into the sub wires as mentioned in Beezupra's post since I have a 991.2 as well.
3. I disconnected the center channel as well and that's just under the panel on the dash. See post #10 here: https://www.planet-9.com/threads/cen...emoval.248066/
4. The LC2i just converts the signal from the stock Bose amp/speaker to the sub. https://www.audiocontrol.com/car-aud...-upgrade/lc2i/
04-11-2020, 10:12 AM
