fester

rezok

just curious...how many miles...and how do you drive?

adcampo

I read Porsche OEM pads are bedded in from the factory. I would suggest taking it a bit easy the firs 100-200 miles.

On my past IBMW's I'd get low dust carbon ceramic pads. Those requires bedding in - 3-5 cycles of hard braking. Starting easier and final cycle full force.

You may want to check the owners manual. I kind of recall that being in there.

Guards_Red_991

I replaced the same stuff on my 997 and never did anything special to it. I drove it just like any other time.

Steven C.

I just did fronts on my 991S recently and asked a few certified Pcar mechanics and got the same answer, nothing special required. The new Stoptech/Centric pads are the same way and they credit it to a baking procedure to cure the pads at the factory. Now with all of that I still drove around the neighborhood and did my standard 30-45mph stops.....it's hard to teach an old dog new tricks it seems

LexVan

CLeagones

I've been looking for the DIY to change all (4) corners (pads/rotors) on my 991C4S...Any links or tips as I will be changing these for the first time. Thanks guys

GTorTT

Just did the front pads, sensors and rotors on my Cayenne GTS. Wasn't aware there was any procedure to "bed" things. Took it easy for the first few miles and rode the brakes a bit as the new pads on the rotors were making some noise on braking. All seems fine now.

I have to say, doing the pads, sensors and rotors was super easy, just a few monor tools needed, so anyone on the fence about whether to go to the dealership....don't. I priced front rotors, sensors, pads and caliper bolts at a local dealer and the quoted $1,400 just for parts. Bought from Suncoast for $770. Youtube is very helpful. Front job with help of a buddy took less than 1 1/2 hours. Not sure what the dealership would charge for labor, but I'm sure it would be several hundred dollars at least. Recommend getting a caliper spreading tool. Got mine on Amazon for $14 bucks. It's the bomb. Far better than trying to use pry pars to compress the pads.

JRitt@essex

Many pad manufacturers claim that their pads are pre-bedded. What that actually means is that they are scorched in an oven. We consider bedding to be a more substantial/thorough break-in procedure, and we perform this service for thousands of our pro and aftermarket brake customers on a machine every year (the process and the machine itself are both patented). We also produced a couple of videos that apply to pretty much any pad or disc, and will teach you how to properly manage your pads and discs. These videos will provide some insight into what is happening during a pad bed-in, and how to do it. Please check them out:

luv2sleep

Just curious...do you have to retract the electric parking brake with a scan tool to do the rears?

zoiks

My experience is if you are a gentle street driver that doesn't aggressively jump on the brakes or ride them you can probably get away without bedding the pads in. IF, however, you track the car, or are aggressive on the brakes I would recommend bedding in the pads to your new rotors. StopTech, in their technical support section has two good reads. Go to TECHNICAL SUPPORT, then TECHNICAL WHITE PAPERS and you should see these titles. One is called "The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System, and the other is Brake Pad Bed-In procedures. I don't know how a manufacturer can claim to "pre-bed" in a pad without it mating with the actual rotor. You can pre-heat a pad but that feels like it covers about 20% of what I thought a bed-in process was trying to accomplish. I thought the bed-in process is about getting the pad hot, merging the two surfaces that are not perfectly flat, and putting some pad material on the rotor. (pad deposition) The rotor will literally do some subtle uneven machining of the pad until it's is closer to perfectly flat. I've actually measured the flatness of new pads and new rotors and I was really surprised that pad was far from flat. If you ever get board, put new rotors and pads on, do a couple brake cycles, take the pads out and look at them. You will see there isn't complete contact across 100% of the brake pad surface area. If you look at the rotor surface, it also will not show complete contact until the two parts wear in. If you track your car and don't bed the pads in, those high points will get hot fast and lead to some hot zones on the rotor. Anyhow, I hope it helps.

MJG911

no.

Need4S

Joec500

I didn't realize there was a left and right side for the rotors.....Let's just stay I am REALLY good at swapping rotors and pads now

3Series

Yup, it's because of the cooling vanes. Some rotors have a nice L and R stamped on them. Normal street driving.....you probably wouldn't notice anything.