Buying first Porsche! Is this a good buy?
#16
I wouldn't worry about it having 3 owners assuming it had a clean PPI and checked all the boxes that you're looking for. I'd worry even less if it had additional warranty attached.
#17
#18
I just bought a CPO's 991 C4S with about 6k miles more with a lot more option for 2K more. I agree with the advise you are getting, your first Porsche should be a CPO car from a Porsche dealer. I have owned a lot of cars, and I cannot tell you how important it is to establish a relationship with a dealer.
#19
looks like a lot of car for that price, perhaps too much. I would have a thorough PPI done (including paint meter reading and inspect the vehicle in person. 3 owners could be indicative of something. I would not own a 911 without the sports chrono pack so that may be a reason it is so cheap but it could also be something else so I would make sure to have someone else and then also myself inspect. 3owners will affect value for resale if you care about that.
#20
1) Owners don't really matter unless you care about how many people have driven your car. I would, but to each their own.
2) This car is being offered way under typical Retail price. If you use KBB, the price they're offering the car for is "Very Good" trade-in value when corrected for mileage. The retail number is more in the low $70's with this mild of a spec. Not cause for concern, but like others have mentioned... strongly recommend a Porsche Pre-Purchase inspection. I personally wouldn't bust the dealer up for more off the car...they are already well below what they could be asking for the car probably because they're having trouble selling it. Ask them about a warranty if you are considering a purchase and see about negotiating the price of that.
3) There is not an S model at any Porsche dealer (2013, S, CPO) for under $72,000 right now. Most have way more options on them/are convertibles.
4) Don't sacrifice for your first Porsche. I'm sure it took some time to get in a position to afford something like this and you don't want to have to get in your car every day wishing it had "this" or "that."
Best of luck!
2) This car is being offered way under typical Retail price. If you use KBB, the price they're offering the car for is "Very Good" trade-in value when corrected for mileage. The retail number is more in the low $70's with this mild of a spec. Not cause for concern, but like others have mentioned... strongly recommend a Porsche Pre-Purchase inspection. I personally wouldn't bust the dealer up for more off the car...they are already well below what they could be asking for the car probably because they're having trouble selling it. Ask them about a warranty if you are considering a purchase and see about negotiating the price of that.
3) There is not an S model at any Porsche dealer (2013, S, CPO) for under $72,000 right now. Most have way more options on them/are convertibles.
4) Don't sacrifice for your first Porsche. I'm sure it took some time to get in a position to afford something like this and you don't want to have to get in your car every day wishing it had "this" or "that."
Best of luck!
#21
You're going to love whatever your first Porsche is. If you drive it and enjoy it, and it checks out fine - this looks like a good option IMO!
I have a pretty base C2 and I honestly can't think of a thing I'd change at the moment. I love everything about it. I wouldn't miss Sport Chrono at all, but I would miss the PSE - but that's an easy after-purchase addition.
Good luck!
I have a pretty base C2 and I honestly can't think of a thing I'd change at the moment. I love everything about it. I wouldn't miss Sport Chrono at all, but I would miss the PSE - but that's an easy after-purchase addition.
Good luck!
#22
Thanks for all the advice! I really appreciate the help as it's an important purchase for me and it was a lot of work to come to a point where I can afford one!
I am going to check out the car tomorrow or Sunday and I will keep you updated, right now I don't think I will go through with the purchase unless they drop the price a little because of the low specs and warranty concerns or offer my good amount of money for my trade in.
I am going to check out the car tomorrow or Sunday and I will keep you updated, right now I don't think I will go through with the purchase unless they drop the price a little because of the low specs and warranty concerns or offer my good amount of money for my trade in.
#23
Advanced
I bought something very similar 2 years ago, 22k miles with 1 owner with sport chrono and some more options for 66k from carmax. So I would think you can find a better deal than this.
#24
Was that a S model? Sounds like a good deal! But market might be very different than 2 years ago too.
#25
Advanced
#26
Rennlist Member
Assuming it passes a PPI, it looks like a very nice 991.1 C2S. It is a stripper only PDK, Bose & Nav, and has with no sunroof, lux or performance options, But if you are just going to use it for a daily driver and don't need anything more, it should be a great car.
#29
As another point of reference, I bought my MSRP $129k '13 C2S for $75k 10/16. It had about 25k miles and was a CPO from a Porsche dealer. Except for additional depreciation from the miles I've put on it, I don't think it's lost any value.
#30
Original MSRP should never be used to judge whether or not you got a good deal on a used car.
For the simple reason that original MSRP has nothing to do with the current market value of the car. Nor does it have anything to do with car's value to the dealer.
For these reasons, you should never negotiate price of a used car with a dealer using MSRP as a baseline. If you make that move, you would be playing right into the dealers negotiating hand.
The base value (invoice cost) of a used car to a dealer is the price he would get at auction. Ideally, you always want to negotiate up from the invoice cost. Never down from MSRP.
Lacking invoice cost, you should negotiate down only from market value, a number readily available by searches on line.
For the simple reason that original MSRP has nothing to do with the current market value of the car. Nor does it have anything to do with car's value to the dealer.
For these reasons, you should never negotiate price of a used car with a dealer using MSRP as a baseline. If you make that move, you would be playing right into the dealers negotiating hand.
The base value (invoice cost) of a used car to a dealer is the price he would get at auction. Ideally, you always want to negotiate up from the invoice cost. Never down from MSRP.
Lacking invoice cost, you should negotiate down only from market value, a number readily available by searches on line.