991.1 S Front Brake Job
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
991.1 S Front Brake Job
Just completed replacement of the front pads and discs yesterday....surprisingly easier job than expected. Took about 1.5 hours taking my time and with beer breaks. Having a helper does make the job easier when re-installing
the calipers. I used Porsche discs and pads from FCP Euro, free replacement pads and discs going forward! I used this video as a basic guide for the job, torque values were slightly different as it is not a GT3:
the calipers. I used Porsche discs and pads from FCP Euro, free replacement pads and discs going forward! I used this video as a basic guide for the job, torque values were slightly different as it is not a GT3:
#2
Rennlist Member
How many miles?
How are the rear brakes in comparison?
How are the rear brakes in comparison?
#4
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: 90 Miles East of Sonoma Raceway
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I installed some Girodisc rotors and added GT3 front pads and it's as basic as it gets with the exception of the sensor clips which I broke removing. Pretty similar to any newer car with performance disc brakes on it. The rears are just like the front and very easy.
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1077...sc-rotors.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1077...sc-rotors.html
#5
I did my front brake rotors and pads as well this weekend. Took about an hour with a helper (mechanic). Saved about $1,000 from what the dealer wanted to charge me ($1,600 total). Got the rotors, discs, sensors and caliper bolts from Suncoast for around $600. I don't see how the dealer rationalizes charging 5 hours of labor at $200 an hour. I guess most owners are just too busy to deal with it. The new Porsche pads must be better as no squeaks whatsover (although we did put some brake lubricant on the back of the pads to reduce vibration).
#6
Rennlist Member
I found the rears to be much more of a pain in the butt than the fronts. 2 reasons: 1) The bracket you need to remove to allow the brake lines to come free has a completely blind bolt. It's behind the rotor. 2) There is a plastic air duct that needs to be removed in order to get to said bolt. I couldn't get my socket on the bolt without bumping into the air duct, so it had to come off. It was a pain reinstalling and I actually busted one of its integrated clips and had to buy a new one. It was only $40 or so, but a PIA nonetheless.
Also, re-seating the caliper bolts was tricky and I'm worried that I might strip the aluminum carrier. In the spring I'm going to get the Tarett caliper stud set so this becomes more worry-free.
Also, re-seating the caliper bolts was tricky and I'm worried that I might strip the aluminum carrier. In the spring I'm going to get the Tarett caliper stud set so this becomes more worry-free.
#7
Rennlist Member
I actually found the rears to be easier, I didn't bother removing that bracket on the rear as I used a box to hold up the caliper. Also...Make sure to double check the rotor direction! After buttoning everything up I learned the hard way! At least now I am REALLy quick on swapping brakes.
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#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
I found the rears to be much more of a pain in the butt than the fronts. 2 reasons: 1) The bracket you need to remove to allow the brake lines to come free has a completely blind bolt. It's behind the rotor. 2) There is a plastic air duct that needs to be removed in order to get to said bolt. I couldn't get my socket on the bolt without bumping into the air duct, so it had to come off. It was a pain reinstalling and I actually busted one of its integrated clips and had to buy a new one. It was only $40 or so, but a PIA nonetheless.
Also, re-seating the caliper bolts was tricky and I'm worried that I might strip the aluminum carrier. In the spring I'm going to get the Tarett caliper stud set so this becomes more worry-free.
Also, re-seating the caliper bolts was tricky and I'm worried that I might strip the aluminum carrier. In the spring I'm going to get the Tarett caliper stud set so this becomes more worry-free.
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
I did my front brake rotors and pads as well this weekend. Took about an hour with a helper (mechanic). Saved about $1,000 from what the dealer wanted to charge me ($1,600 total). Got the rotors, discs, sensors and caliper bolts from Suncoast for around $600. I don't see how the dealer rationalizes charging 5 hours of labor at $200 an hour. I guess most owners are just too busy to deal with it. The new Porsche pads must be better as no squeaks whatsover (although we did put some brake lubricant on the back of the pads to reduce vibration).
#10
Rennlist Member
#12
I had a look at the FCP Euro website. Wow. I should have bought my brakes from them. They will replace the rotors, pads, anything for free for lifetime. And includes track use and wear and tear. Amazing. Getting my rear rotors and pads from them. Also free shipping. Costs seem about the same as Suncoast. https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
I had a look at the FCP Euro website. Wow. I should have bought my brakes from them. They will replace the rotors, pads, anything for free for lifetime. And includes track use and wear and tear. Amazing. Getting my rear rotors and pads from them. Also free shipping. Costs seem about the same as Suncoast. https://www.fcpeuro.com/page/lifetime-guarantee
#14
Rennlist Member
Thanks for the lead to this parts site. They are basically the same price as Pelican for front factory rotors but a LOT cheaper for the Sebro fronts. I remember, I think, a bad experience in the 80's with Sebro on a 928 I had. Anyone have a comment on Sebro? My car needs a front and rear brake job soon......