Let’s talk track tires
10-10-2018, 12:48 PM
#31
Race Car
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One other idea for you. Find a race team in your area running your size tires and buy their cast-off slicks. Most likely they will have a tire-mounting machine in-house. A competitive team will only do one race on a set of tires, they would still have several more days DE use and you won't believe the grip. <g>. Used slicks are cheap and they may even mount them for you.
10-10-2018, 12:55 PM
#32
Pro
tire pressure question. I was taught that tire pressure is only important as a guideline for achieving uniform temperature across the tire patch and the most accurate method is to hot lap and then shoot the tires with an infrared thermometer. If the center is hotter than the edges, too much pressure, if the edges higher temp than the center, too little pressure. Across the tire, just right.
What is the feedback from track regulars on this thread?
What is the feedback from track regulars on this thread?
10-10-2018, 01:27 PM
#33
Race Car
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tire pressure question. I was taught that tire pressure is only important as a guideline for achieving uniform temperature across the tire patch and the most accurate method is to hot lap and then shoot the tires with an infrared thermometer. If the center is hotter than the edges, too much pressure, if the edges higher temp than the center, too little pressure. Across the tire, just right.
What is the feedback from track regulars on this thread?
What is the feedback from track regulars on this thread?
10-10-2018, 01:52 PM
#34
When you start with pyrometers you really need probe type and race team to take readings as soon as you get off track. Master your driving to try and get even temperatures . Limit pushing through the corners etc. Be smooth is best advise. That's winning your DE.
10-10-2018, 02:21 PM
#35
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Yep, at that point may as well get that tube frame car, join SCCA and go racing!
10-10-2018, 09:47 PM
#36
10-11-2018, 11:24 AM
#37
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I'm still puzzled about the chunking. Tire shaving aside, did the chunking happen because:
A. I drove them too hard underinflated starting at 26psi?
B. I drove them too hard overinflated up to 35psi ?
C. Doesn't matter Michelins chunk...
A. I drove them too hard underinflated starting at 26psi?
B. I drove them too hard overinflated up to 35psi ?
C. Doesn't matter Michelins chunk...
10-11-2018, 11:39 AM
#38
Race Car
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In my opinion, you are probably over-driving the tires. Most likely a street tire can no longer keep up with the demands you are putting on it during track days, Heat and Stress cause the chunking.
It sounds like you are really going full-bore out there (which is what I do, too) and that's lots of fun - but you should move into a track-dedicated R compound tire at some point (one you don't drive to the track on). Those will be able to keep up with your aggressive driving in a high HP, heavier car like a GT3. I know, I know, you have to haul wheels to the track, etc....but that's the slippery slope you go down as you get better in your driving.
Eventually I myself got the pickup truck, the trailer and the cage for the car - modified suspension, seats, belts, brakes, slicks, etc. I turned my street car into a race car except for the fuel cell. It made track days really nice to unload it off the trailer and have it ready to go - but then there was the expense of all the support equipment. It's a hobby that's expensive. After you do it a few years, you will see the smart guys go to a dedicated lightweight race car. That will especially be the case when you have a crash / blown engine, etc., in the GT3, which will be very, very costly to repair.
It sounds like you are really going full-bore out there (which is what I do, too) and that's lots of fun - but you should move into a track-dedicated R compound tire at some point (one you don't drive to the track on). Those will be able to keep up with your aggressive driving in a high HP, heavier car like a GT3. I know, I know, you have to haul wheels to the track, etc....but that's the slippery slope you go down as you get better in your driving.
Eventually I myself got the pickup truck, the trailer and the cage for the car - modified suspension, seats, belts, brakes, slicks, etc. I turned my street car into a race car except for the fuel cell. It made track days really nice to unload it off the trailer and have it ready to go - but then there was the expense of all the support equipment. It's a hobby that's expensive. After you do it a few years, you will see the smart guys go to a dedicated lightweight race car. That will especially be the case when you have a crash / blown engine, etc., in the GT3, which will be very, very costly to repair.
10-11-2018, 11:44 AM
#39
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
In my opinion, you are probably over-driving the tires. Most likely a street tire can no longer keep up with the demands you are putting on it during track days, Heat and Stress cause the chunking.
It sounds like you are really going full-bore out there (which is what I do, too) and that's lots of fun - but you should move into a track-dedicated R compound tire at some point (one you don't drive to the track on). Those will be able to keep up with your aggressive driving in a high HP, heavier car like a GT3. I know, I know, you have to haul wheels to the track, etc....but that's the slippery slope you go down as you get better in your driving.
Eventually I myself got the pickup truck, the trailer and the cage for the car - modified suspension, seats, belts, brakes, slicks, etc. I turned my street car into a race car except for the fuel cell. It made track days really nice to unload it off the trailer and have it ready to go - but then there was the expense of all the support equipment. It's a hobby that's expensive. After you do it a few years, you will see the smart guys go to a dedicated lightweight race car. That will especially be the case when you have a crash / blown engine, etc., in the GT3, which will be very, very costly to repair.
It sounds like you are really going full-bore out there (which is what I do, too) and that's lots of fun - but you should move into a track-dedicated R compound tire at some point (one you don't drive to the track on). Those will be able to keep up with your aggressive driving in a high HP, heavier car like a GT3. I know, I know, you have to haul wheels to the track, etc....but that's the slippery slope you go down as you get better in your driving.
Eventually I myself got the pickup truck, the trailer and the cage for the car - modified suspension, seats, belts, brakes, slicks, etc. I turned my street car into a race car except for the fuel cell. It made track days really nice to unload it off the trailer and have it ready to go - but then there was the expense of all the support equipment. It's a hobby that's expensive. After you do it a few years, you will see the smart guys go to a dedicated lightweight race car. That will especially be the case when you have a crash / blown engine, etc., in the GT3, which will be very, very costly to repair.
10-16-2018, 01:15 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
Have you considered bridgestone's new s007a? Wont perform as well as the re71r but will last longer and are very affordable. It has pretty good reviews so far as a street/track capable tire. They come in your oem 20in sizing.
bridgestone s007a
bridgestone s007a
10-16-2018, 09:49 PM
#41
I was at NJMP Lightning this past weekend, running somewhat worn Cup2s (second set of fronts 6-7 track days old, first set of rears, 9 track days old, about 4 sessions per track day). Despite having plenty of tread left, they were pretty bad. I struggled to find grip all weekend, sliding around more than usual. I think Cup2s get substantially worse after the first 2-3 days or so. I again saw several 991.1/2 GT3s running the R888Rs. Maybe they're fixed at this point; I think I'll give those a shot next time around and run some high pressures to stay on the safe side.
08-20-2019, 07:29 PM
#42
Have tried the following (also 20s with RAS)
P Zero N0, PZero N1, MPSC2 N0, MPSC2 N1, Trofeo R, 4S N0
The best have been MPSC2 N1 - reasonable longevity, need heat in them (obviously, work it in to them - don't smash them) and need to run around 34F 36R hot (Michellin recommends start at 29F and 35R - this is important, pit and adjust to hot T), had one with sidewall failure, do not under inflate (absolute min 28PSI F), favour modest camber, poor in the wet. Trofeo R marginally quicker in the dry, significantly worse in the wet.
Preferred tire, Yokohama Advan 050 soft front/ medium rear - not available in 20 or 19.
P Zero N0, PZero N1, MPSC2 N0, MPSC2 N1, Trofeo R, 4S N0
The best have been MPSC2 N1 - reasonable longevity, need heat in them (obviously, work it in to them - don't smash them) and need to run around 34F 36R hot (Michellin recommends start at 29F and 35R - this is important, pit and adjust to hot T), had one with sidewall failure, do not under inflate (absolute min 28PSI F), favour modest camber, poor in the wet. Trofeo R marginally quicker in the dry, significantly worse in the wet.
Preferred tire, Yokohama Advan 050 soft front/ medium rear - not available in 20 or 19.
08-22-2019, 01:28 AM
#43
I ripped a MPSC2 as well. I went to TrofeoR and I love them. However next time i will be running Nankang AR-1. Theya re street legal. I don't car about wet weather. It barely rains here. In the dry they are awesome and they come in GT3/GTS sizes. 245/35/20 and 305/30/20.
08-22-2019, 03:31 PM
#44
Three Wheelin'
As everyone has stated, after a few sessions the tires are terrible. Therefore I prefer two sets of rims and tires so I can keep my DD tires in good condition.
Im excited to try the Nankank
Im excited to try the Nankank
