Turning drilled rotors
06-11-2018, 07:10 PM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Turning drilled rotors
My newly acquired 1012 991 is going to need brakes soon. I'm hoping there is enough meat left to turn rotors one time before replacing ( car has 30k ). So with that in mind I went to my local NAPA shop to inquire about Turning rotors. NAPA guy said he doesn't like turning rotors that are drilled? Should I just buy new Rotors or look for someone else that can turn them? Also whats a good "dust free" brake pad. Thanks, noob here
06-11-2018, 07:43 PM
#2
I am running these Sebro rear rotors (Porsche front rotors) and they have held up well after four track days with RS29s: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/por...02-seb-909323c
I can't help with dust-free pads.
Edit to add: I would buy Sebro front/rears instead of turning the old rotors.
I can't help with dust-free pads.
Edit to add: I would buy Sebro front/rears instead of turning the old rotors.
06-11-2018, 10:43 PM
#4
Instructor
OP, Ditto what has been stated. Just buy new rotors. They are not that expensive. Can stick with Porsche branded ones (look at Suncoast parts) or go aftermarket from sebro, Zimmerman, Brembo https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog..._pg2.htm#item7
Install can vary from dealer (over $1000), Indy shop (~$500), or dyi about 2-3 hours all in if you know how to turn a wrench. Search here for dyi guides, it’s fairly simple procedure assuming you have a torque wrench and the correct hex bits.
Install can vary from dealer (over $1000), Indy shop (~$500), or dyi about 2-3 hours all in if you know how to turn a wrench. Search here for dyi guides, it’s fairly simple procedure assuming you have a torque wrench and the correct hex bits.
06-12-2018, 01:27 AM
#6
I was able to have my 968 rotors turned 3 times when I was tracking that car. Cost was something like $25-$35 each. They were drilled rotors. After they were turned I did spend a few minutes to clean out the holes.
Not sure why a 991 would be any different.
Not sure why a 991 would be any different.
06-12-2018, 01:45 AM
#7
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Skip the dustless brake pads, they can't stand up to heat and unless you drive your Porsche like its a Mercedes S Class - have no place on the car.
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06-12-2018, 08:29 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
My newly acquired 1012 991 is going to need brakes soon. I'm hoping there is enough meat left to turn rotors one time before replacing ( car has 30k ). So with that in mind I went to my local NAPA shop to inquire about Turning rotors. NAPA guy said he doesn't like turning rotors that are drilled? Should I just buy new Rotors or look for someone else that can turn them? Also whats a good "dust free" brake pad. Thanks, noob here
06-12-2018, 09:43 AM
#9
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And the question is, why would you want to do this?? Is there some performance problem?? Do you feel pulsing in the pedal from a warped rotor?? This isn't your father's Olds where a brake job included turning the rotors. As for being in spec, do the wear dimples outside the drilled holes still show??
06-12-2018, 08:12 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
+1. I suggest Porterfield R4-S if you don't want OEM. Suncoast or Pelican for rotors. Don't forget the hardware and sensors.
06-12-2018, 09:30 PM
#11
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If they are in spec you can machine them with no problems. I have machined drilled and slotted rotors for the last 25 years and never had a problem as long as they are in spec. If your tech know what he's doing its possible.
06-13-2018, 12:23 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
^^^^^^^^^^^^ This^^^^^^^^
And if you think you “might” track the car, consider slotted instead of drilled rotors. They last longer (no heat cracks between the holes) and provide slightly better braking! They weigh slightly more but worth it.
And if you think you “might” track the car, consider slotted instead of drilled rotors. They last longer (no heat cracks between the holes) and provide slightly better braking! They weigh slightly more but worth it.
06-13-2018, 12:49 PM
#13
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When I was actively tracking my car - I had dedicated track rotors and pads (very aggressive) along with R-Compound tires on beater wheels. The night before I'd put the car on my lift in the garage, pull the wheels, calipers and rotors, and put the matched set on the car. Bleed the brakes, too - every 3 months. That way each track pad had its own rotor to ride on and I had them marked with tape each position on the car. When I'd get home after the track day, the street set went back on. Yes, I trailered out. Sound like a big job but I could do it all in 50 minutes once the car was on the lift.
06-13-2018, 04:04 PM
#14
A brake job should ALWAYS include either new rotors or else a fresh turned surface on an existing rotor so the mating surface between new pad and rotor is not compromised by the grooves in the old rotor (that will cause vibration in the pad which leads to brake squeal and shortened pad life).
06-13-2018, 04:13 PM
#15
