CPO 2013 C2S, 6800 miles, 2 owners Opinions please.
#76
Race Director
Originally Posted by minthral
Not sure about MT, but the NA 2.7/3.4/3.8 engines + PDK did have some hesitation at lower RPMs and dead stop. I'd say its part of the engine's character. I tried to track this down and no mods would fix it. Variable valve timing, fuel or air starvation...not sure. I've made recordings of 0-60 times and despite the hesitation, they almost meet spec...maybe slightly slower, but that's fair because I'm testing rear world conditions.
I haven't tested thoroughly, but the new twin-turbo engine + PDK don't seem to have any hesitation...aside from slight delay in turbo spooling at low RPMs (a wash considering the dead zone in the NA). Perception wise, the turbo engine is much much quicker (I'd go as far saying 2 times so). The NA is more linear and only delivers peek power at peek RPM, so that makes it feel slower.
If you're getting concerns about power, you better go for some test drives before buying.
I haven't tested thoroughly, but the new twin-turbo engine + PDK don't seem to have any hesitation...aside from slight delay in turbo spooling at low RPMs (a wash considering the dead zone in the NA). Perception wise, the turbo engine is much much quicker (I'd go as far saying 2 times so). The NA is more linear and only delivers peek power at peek RPM, so that makes it feel slower.
If you're getting concerns about power, you better go for some test drives before buying.
Wow. The .2 is TWICE as fast?? Awesome!!!
#77
I tactic I've used at dealers is the following:
- Don't waste anyone's (yours or theirs) time and make it clear that this is your intent.
- Don't act like you must have the car or that's precious/ one of a kind. You will be okay if you don't buy it. In fact, mention you're looking at others.
- Point out problems (worn tires 'beige interior no one wants' etc) and damage (rock chips/ dents in panels)... down play the car as flawed somehow.
- Offer a price based on your research of what a similar car cost (from kelly blue book, ebay, other dealer etc) and stick with it, however know that you're probably asking to low, giving room for the dealer to go up from there (instead of trying to go down from what THEY say the price is).
- Be ready and do walk out the door if they don't compromise on price...if they want to sell it, they wont let you leave.
There are always considerations on cars. They might have bought it from another dealer for 70k, so they wont go lower than 73k to make profit. Who knows...nonetheless, IMO around 75k is a fair price for that car - a few thousand wouldn't deter me in either direction, but you might be different.
- Don't waste anyone's (yours or theirs) time and make it clear that this is your intent.
- Don't act like you must have the car or that's precious/ one of a kind. You will be okay if you don't buy it. In fact, mention you're looking at others.
- Point out problems (worn tires 'beige interior no one wants' etc) and damage (rock chips/ dents in panels)... down play the car as flawed somehow.
- Offer a price based on your research of what a similar car cost (from kelly blue book, ebay, other dealer etc) and stick with it, however know that you're probably asking to low, giving room for the dealer to go up from there (instead of trying to go down from what THEY say the price is).
- Be ready and do walk out the door if they don't compromise on price...if they want to sell it, they wont let you leave.
There are always considerations on cars. They might have bought it from another dealer for 70k, so they wont go lower than 73k to make profit. Who knows...nonetheless, IMO around 75k is a fair price for that car - a few thousand wouldn't deter me in either direction, but you might be different.
#78
#79
Race Director
Originally Posted by minthral
I tactic I've used at dealers is the following:
- Don't waste anyone's (yours or theirs) time and make it clear that this is your intent.
- Don't act like you must have the car or that's precious/ one of a kind. You will be okay if you don't buy it. In fact, mention you're looking at others.
- Point out problems (worn tires 'beige interior no one wants' etc) and damage (rock chips/ dents in panels)... down play the car as flawed somehow.
- Offer a price based on your research of what a similar car cost (from kelly blue book, ebay, other dealer etc) and stick with it, however know that you're probably asking to low, giving room for the dealer to go up from there (instead of trying to go down from what THEY say the price is).
- Be ready and do walk out the door if they don't compromise on price...if they want to sell it, they wont let you leave.
There are always considerations on cars. They might have bought it from another dealer for 70k, so they wont go lower than 73k to make profit. Who knows...nonetheless, IMO around 75k is a fair price for that car - a few thousand wouldn't deter me in either direction, but you might be different.
- Don't waste anyone's (yours or theirs) time and make it clear that this is your intent.
- Don't act like you must have the car or that's precious/ one of a kind. You will be okay if you don't buy it. In fact, mention you're looking at others.
- Point out problems (worn tires 'beige interior no one wants' etc) and damage (rock chips/ dents in panels)... down play the car as flawed somehow.
- Offer a price based on your research of what a similar car cost (from kelly blue book, ebay, other dealer etc) and stick with it, however know that you're probably asking to low, giving room for the dealer to go up from there (instead of trying to go down from what THEY say the price is).
- Be ready and do walk out the door if they don't compromise on price...if they want to sell it, they wont let you leave.
There are always considerations on cars. They might have bought it from another dealer for 70k, so they wont go lower than 73k to make profit. Who knows...nonetheless, IMO around 75k is a fair price for that car - a few thousand wouldn't deter me in either direction, but you might be different.
I would just have the OP print out your comparison above. They'll knock $10K the inferior .1
#80
#81
Race Director
Originally Posted by minthral
True tell them 'you know this is 991.1 and I was looking at 991.2 base car 1 year used for 75k.' It felt much faster and I'm starting to think I should get me one.
Actually use a BMW as a comparison. The P dealer will just try and sell you a .2 on their lot.
#82
And just think, the 992 will be twice as fast as the .2 making it four times as fast as the .1
Wait, if you carry the .1 and divide by .2 you get...now I'm confused...well you get the picture, as it approaches the speed of light the more warped lengths and time intervals become.
Wait, if you carry the .1 and divide by .2 you get...now I'm confused...well you get the picture, as it approaches the speed of light the more warped lengths and time intervals become.
#84
Rennlist Member
Oh how I wish _Rated_ was not banned for life.
Anyway. No stumble on my 2012.5 991.1S. It is not normal but people just live with it.
Life is too short to be so finicky. I picked up mine a year and half ago, sight unseen, no PPI. Shipped from dealer (Isringhausen) to CA. Asides from a couple of rattles and the changeover valve, all smiles here
Anyway. No stumble on my 2012.5 991.1S. It is not normal but people just live with it.
Life is too short to be so finicky. I picked up mine a year and half ago, sight unseen, no PPI. Shipped from dealer (Isringhausen) to CA. Asides from a couple of rattles and the changeover valve, all smiles here
#85
Rennlist Member
Doesn't this depend on whether you are buying a previously CPO'd car vs a car that they CPO when they sell to you? i.e. my car has a CPO till Jan 20, if I sell to a Porsche dealer they can resell without invalidating that CPO, so new owner would have no assurance that the tires, brakes, etc. meet cpo standards, and that date would remain valid, right?
if it is PP sale then is ISD plus 6 years or the date when the car was purchased as CPO plus 2 years whichever is later.
#86
Rennlist Member
yeah range 1 over rev is nothing to sweat about
I have the white and tan combo on my 987.2....the only down side to that is after a few years the tan will get a little "darker" from dirt etc and is harder to keep clean....Personally I wont not want the tan interior again....but is a personal choice
I have the white and tan combo on my 987.2....the only down side to that is after a few years the tan will get a little "darker" from dirt etc and is harder to keep clean....Personally I wont not want the tan interior again....but is a personal choice
#87
If you buy a CPO car from a Porsche dealership then is ALWAYS 2 years from the date of purchase or the 6 years unlimited miles from ISD. Doesnt matter if the car was previously CPO-ed or not. I dont think Porsche dealers can advertise it as a CPO verhicle if they dont "re-certify" the car with CPO
if it is PP sale then is ISD plus 6 years or the date when the car was purchased as CPO plus 2 years whichever is later.
if it is PP sale then is ISD plus 6 years or the date when the car was purchased as CPO plus 2 years whichever is later.
#88
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Oh how I wish _Rated_ was not banned for life.
Anyway. No stumble on my 2012.5 991.1S. It is not normal but people just live with it.
Life is too short to be so finicky. I picked up mine a year and half ago, sight unseen, no PPI. Shipped from dealer (Isringhausen) to CA. Asides from a couple of rattles and the changeover valve, all smiles here
Anyway. No stumble on my 2012.5 991.1S. It is not normal but people just live with it.
Life is too short to be so finicky. I picked up mine a year and half ago, sight unseen, no PPI. Shipped from dealer (Isringhausen) to CA. Asides from a couple of rattles and the changeover valve, all smiles here
#89
CPO is valid for 2 years for a car certified prior to sale at a dealer. In short, this car will have 2 years of warranty to anyone who buys it.
If a car still has factory warranty, the additional 2 years of CPO warranty starts when the original factory warranty duration ends. This basically means you get 6 years from the date the new car warranty started (date in service).
It cost 26xx for dealers (up from 23xx) since Jan 2018, but now you get unlimited miles instead of 100k. The unlimited miles is kind of a gimmick because if you buy a 2 year old car with 20k miles, its highly unlikely you'll put an additional 80k in 4 years unless you drive a lot (20k+ per year). Same if you buy a low mileage car, you're not going to exceed 100k in 2 years.
Part of the restrictions on dealers making a car CPO is it must have had all maintenance work done at dealer. If someone bought a new car and had their first oil change done at indy shop, then dealer wouldn't be able to CPO it later (per porsche doc, but not telling if dealer follows that). You can't have aftermarket parts on it and plenty of other restrictions (part of checklist)...I received the CPO report on my car today and it is a lot of checks. There is a bit of trust involved the dealer did actually check everything and not just tick the box pass...I don't see why they wouldn't, but apparently some here claim their CPO car had things on it that shouldn't have passed.
EDIT: removed statement about private party sale (CPO is transferable)
If a car still has factory warranty, the additional 2 years of CPO warranty starts when the original factory warranty duration ends. This basically means you get 6 years from the date the new car warranty started (date in service).
It cost 26xx for dealers (up from 23xx) since Jan 2018, but now you get unlimited miles instead of 100k. The unlimited miles is kind of a gimmick because if you buy a 2 year old car with 20k miles, its highly unlikely you'll put an additional 80k in 4 years unless you drive a lot (20k+ per year). Same if you buy a low mileage car, you're not going to exceed 100k in 2 years.
Part of the restrictions on dealers making a car CPO is it must have had all maintenance work done at dealer. If someone bought a new car and had their first oil change done at indy shop, then dealer wouldn't be able to CPO it later (per porsche doc, but not telling if dealer follows that). You can't have aftermarket parts on it and plenty of other restrictions (part of checklist)...I received the CPO report on my car today and it is a lot of checks. There is a bit of trust involved the dealer did actually check everything and not just tick the box pass...I don't see why they wouldn't, but apparently some here claim their CPO car had things on it that shouldn't have passed.
EDIT: removed statement about private party sale (CPO is transferable)
Last edited by minthral; 06-11-2018 at 08:22 PM.