Warm Up & Cool Down - 991.2
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Warm Up & Cool Down - 991.2
Hi-
I might be old school but I always warm up my 991.2 for a couple minutes before driving, and I never get on it until the oil temp hits at least 150F.
After "spirited" driving I also let it sit for about 2 minutes before shutting it down.
What do you all do (or not)?
Thanks
I might be old school but I always warm up my 991.2 for a couple minutes before driving, and I never get on it until the oil temp hits at least 150F.
After "spirited" driving I also let it sit for about 2 minutes before shutting it down.
What do you all do (or not)?
Thanks
#2
Rennlist Member
Warm up until cats heat up to enough stop cold start rumble (30 sec). Dont exceed 4000 rpm till 150 F. No cool down but will drive slow for a couple minutes on hot summer days if I was just on it. Might also end the drive cruising in sport mode to activate all the intercoolers if it was super hot. Dont track the car but I believe they have cool down laps.
Note. This is on my Macan Turbo but i plan to do the same in the 991.2 when it arrives
Note. This is on my Macan Turbo but i plan to do the same in the 991.2 when it arrives
#3
Rennlist Member
Oil temp needs to be above above 180 degrees before I flog it. (which I believe is the blue line for your 991.2). Idling for warm up is not recommended. It is in your manual. It's because the engine spends more time at a lower temp where more wear occurs. Got to get the car moving to heat up engine components faster.
Why would you let it sit to cool down? You are not tracking the car. If you were flogging it and oil temp was about 245 or so....then sure....let it idle to cool down. But you are not doing that unless you track the car.....or do some spirited mountain carving that puts a big strain on the engine.
Why would you let it sit to cool down? You are not tracking the car. If you were flogging it and oil temp was about 245 or so....then sure....let it idle to cool down. But you are not doing that unless you track the car.....or do some spirited mountain carving that puts a big strain on the engine.
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Oil temp needs to be above above 180 degrees before I flog it. (which I believe is the blue line for your 991.2). Idling for warm up is not recommended. It is in your manual. It's because the engine spends more time at a lower temp where more wear occurs. Got to get the car moving to heat up engine components faster.
Why would you let it sit to cool down? You are not tracking the car. If you were flogging it and oil temp was about 245 or so....then sure....let it idle to cool down. But you are not doing that unless you track the car.....or do some spirited mountain carving that puts a big strain on the engine.
Why would you let it sit to cool down? You are not tracking the car. If you were flogging it and oil temp was about 245 or so....then sure....let it idle to cool down. But you are not doing that unless you track the car.....or do some spirited mountain carving that puts a big strain on the engine.
So no warm up
180F- green light
No cool down unless at extremely high temps
Thanks
#5
Burning Brakes
Traditionally, with a turbocharged car, you let it cool down a bit after hard riving to let the turbos cool off. With the turbine housing at, or close to, exhaust gas temperature, which is 1000 degrees, if you just shut the engine off, that heat can soak into the turbo's center section where the bearing is located. And that can coke the oil and casue no end of problems.
Modern turbos have water jackets in this bearing area to prevent this problem, but I would still give an engine that was run very hard a minute or two, until the turbine housing stops glowing orange, before shutting it off.
Modern turbos have water jackets in this bearing area to prevent this problem, but I would still give an engine that was run very hard a minute or two, until the turbine housing stops glowing orange, before shutting it off.
#6
Three Wheelin'
Don't use electric hand brake immediately after track use either. They've been known to seize apparently.
#7
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Agree with above
The folks at PSDS didn't care much for cool lap on lead/follow, only on open laps. Their lead would already handle that, I guess.
They definitely don't care about taking it easy during so called brake in period in most cars. The ones I drove were around 100 miles or less and we flogged them. Leave it P or 1st gear, parking break will warp the rotors.
The only one they were concerned about break in period was the GT3.
The folks at PSDS didn't care much for cool lap on lead/follow, only on open laps. Their lead would already handle that, I guess.
They definitely don't care about taking it easy during so called brake in period in most cars. The ones I drove were around 100 miles or less and we flogged them. Leave it P or 1st gear, parking break will warp the rotors.
The only one they were concerned about break in period was the GT3.
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#8
Burning Brakes
I open the garage door.....I get in my car .... I start the car.....I put in reverse and back out into the street......I close the garage ....I drive to work.
When I come home.....I open the garage door.....I turn a left into the driveway and garage..... I turn the engine off.....get out.....close garage...I am home.
No warm ups or cooling down on the 991.1...NA. I guess Turbos are different.
On the 83SC I let it settle down for a minute or two before doing the above. ....
Abe
When I come home.....I open the garage door.....I turn a left into the driveway and garage..... I turn the engine off.....get out.....close garage...I am home.
No warm ups or cooling down on the 991.1...NA. I guess Turbos are different.
On the 83SC I let it settle down for a minute or two before doing the above. ....
Abe
Last edited by abe; 02-26-2018 at 05:44 PM.
#9
Agree with above
The folks at PSDS didn't care much for cool lap on lead/follow, only on open laps. Their lead would already handle that, I guess.
They definitely don't care about taking it easy during so called brake in period in most cars. The ones I drove were around 100 miles or less and we flogged them. Leave it P or 1st gear, parking break will warp the rotors.
The only one they were concerned about break in period was the GT3.
The folks at PSDS didn't care much for cool lap on lead/follow, only on open laps. Their lead would already handle that, I guess.
They definitely don't care about taking it easy during so called brake in period in most cars. The ones I drove were around 100 miles or less and we flogged them. Leave it P or 1st gear, parking break will warp the rotors.
The only one they were concerned about break in period was the GT3.
#10
Three Wheelin'
Wait for high idle to slow down on start-up before driving away. Let the car idle for ~30-60 seconds before shut-down. Probably not necessary on modern turbo engines but old habits die hard.
#11
Rennlist Member
I think one thing that is important with turbo cars is to STAY OUT OF BOOST when the car is cold. Turbos like warm oil.
So, keeping it under a certain RPM seems like a great idea - just be careful because while you are trying to keep the RPMs low and therefore run in a higher gear (at lower RPM), you could be asking for more load which would cause the car to make more boost.
For example, if you run the car up slowly in 2nd gear to say 5000 rpm with very gentle throttle application, you are likely to make near zero boost.
If you shift quickly from 2nd to 3rd to 4th and end up at 2000 rpm and then give it 1/2 throttle to accelerate, you could make 10psi with cold oil.
Theoretically, you'd be better running the RPM up to 5000 with zero boost, than you would be running at 2000rpm at 10psi (at least for turbo happiness).
Learned a lot from my past days with good ole mechanical boost gauges - you'd be amazed how much boost you make at low RPM under load vs higher RPM under low load.
Now, this is all probably not a huge deal with newer synthetics - just something to think about.
So, keeping it under a certain RPM seems like a great idea - just be careful because while you are trying to keep the RPMs low and therefore run in a higher gear (at lower RPM), you could be asking for more load which would cause the car to make more boost.
For example, if you run the car up slowly in 2nd gear to say 5000 rpm with very gentle throttle application, you are likely to make near zero boost.
If you shift quickly from 2nd to 3rd to 4th and end up at 2000 rpm and then give it 1/2 throttle to accelerate, you could make 10psi with cold oil.
Theoretically, you'd be better running the RPM up to 5000 with zero boost, than you would be running at 2000rpm at 10psi (at least for turbo happiness).
Learned a lot from my past days with good ole mechanical boost gauges - you'd be amazed how much boost you make at low RPM under load vs higher RPM under low load.
Now, this is all probably not a huge deal with newer synthetics - just something to think about.
#12
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Doesn't the 991.2 have an electronic pump that helps to cool the turbines after shutdown?
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#13
Rennlist Member
Last edited by StormRune; 02-28-2018 at 05:00 PM.
#14
I think one thing that is important with turbo cars is to STAY OUT OF BOOST when the car is cold. Turbos like warm oil.
So, keeping it under a certain RPM seems like a great idea - just be careful because while you are trying to keep the RPMs low and therefore run in a higher gear (at lower RPM), you could be asking for more load which would cause the car to make more boost.
For example, if you run the car up slowly in 2nd gear to say 5000 rpm with very gentle throttle application, you are likely to make near zero boost.
If you shift quickly from 2nd to 3rd to 4th and end up at 2000 rpm and then give it 1/2 throttle to accelerate, you could make 10psi with cold oil.
Theoretically, you'd be better running the RPM up to 5000 with zero boost, than you would be running at 2000rpm at 10psi (at least for turbo happiness).
Learned a lot from my past days with good ole mechanical boost gauges - you'd be amazed how much boost you make at low RPM under load vs higher RPM under low load.
Now, this is all probably not a huge deal with newer synthetics - just something to think about.
So, keeping it under a certain RPM seems like a great idea - just be careful because while you are trying to keep the RPMs low and therefore run in a higher gear (at lower RPM), you could be asking for more load which would cause the car to make more boost.
For example, if you run the car up slowly in 2nd gear to say 5000 rpm with very gentle throttle application, you are likely to make near zero boost.
If you shift quickly from 2nd to 3rd to 4th and end up at 2000 rpm and then give it 1/2 throttle to accelerate, you could make 10psi with cold oil.
Theoretically, you'd be better running the RPM up to 5000 with zero boost, than you would be running at 2000rpm at 10psi (at least for turbo happiness).
Learned a lot from my past days with good ole mechanical boost gauges - you'd be amazed how much boost you make at low RPM under load vs higher RPM under low load.
Now, this is all probably not a huge deal with newer synthetics - just something to think about.
#15
Burning Brakes