John Mclane

Anyone tried installing it? Mostly because of the Midwest cold, where a app remote start would be awesome.
Viper comes to mind, but I read discrepancies regarding the feasibility and/or cost to install on the 991. Some say the stop/start system capacitors are an issue. The only capacitor that matters is the flux capacitor, as we old fellas know.
So, any real world experience? Scary stories to set cold bored fellas off this nonsense?

Lawsofpower

Ketchup on Filet Mignon.

JR956678

Prolonged idling isn't good for any engine - especially one just started in very cold weather. I'm not sure but there's a lot of stories of Porsche engine cylinder scoring from cold starts and low oil pressure on the start; I'd be afraid to risk that.

StormRune

Like JR956678 mentions, prolonged cold-engine idling on a 991 isn't recommended. The 991.1 engines take an usually long time to warm up, especially at idle... the longest of any car I've ever seen. They warm up much faster when driving, and even then not all that fast. In general it's best for these cars to start driving shortly after start but just leave the car in Normal mode (if a PDK) and keep the RPM's low until the coolant temp is at least 150 degrees, and even then keep it modest until the car is fully warmed up.

If you do the math to figure out how many piston strokes occur on "cold" cylinders with a long idle versus one that is driven modestly shortly after start resulting in a much quicker warm-up you'll see that the potential wear is substantially more if you just leave it there idling for a long time.

Hopefully in a climate cold enough for you to be concerned with this you got the heated seats and possibly the heated steering wheel. Those work pretty quickly and should help tide you over until the engine gets warmer.

Porsche_nuts

+1

For modern cars, was told to NOT warm up car in cold weather - just start it and go. Take it slow and let the car warm up as you drive.

TorqueChap

LexVan

Fuel dilution.............bad.

John Mclane

Valid point regarding warmup. The car tales about 10-15 mins to blow reasonably warm air. The heated seats help, steering wheel not so much (Cayenne's wheel in the other hand is very effective)
There's some not so nice looking solutions, for which I somewhat lack trust in their electrical stability:
https://www.lifewire.com/best-portab...eaters-4158030

chuck911

One of the coolest (heh) things about this engine is it uses electronic oil pumps (plural) designed to deliver whatever oil pressure is needed, independent of engine RPM. Completely independent. Including even at start-up. When the oil pumps actually begin pumping oil at pressure BEFORE the engine even begins cranking. Search around, there is at least one RL-er who has seen one of these being started with the covers off so you could see the oil squirting everywhere even though the engine itself is not turning over. So oil pressure should not be an issue hot or cold, idling or otherwise. They got that covered.

Cylinder scoring, on the other hand....

The most definitive thing I know of on this subject comes from the research and experience of Jake Raby of Flat Six Innovations. Yes they guy who developed (along with, I believe it is, L&N Engineering) the IMS solution and possibly the best/most experienced builder of 911 engines. He believes cylinder scoring is caused by differential expansion rates between the very rapidly heated and expanded pistons and the slower to expand cylinders, a condition exacerbated by cold weather. Something I find important to keep in mind is that while a lot of folks are happy to throw opinions around, Raby took actual engines and subjected them to a brutal series of rapid cold start cycles, in extreme cold weather and with cooling fans keeping the engine cold through all these cycles, followed by tear-down inspections. He has also tested his solution (different cylinder liners, Nikasil, if I remember correctly) with testing and real-world experience that backs this up.

Full disclosure, this is also the same Jake Raby who personally breaks in every one of his builds with tons of hard full throttle accel and rapid decel, and recommended to one RL'er who wanted to drive his new car home that the hardest thing would be doing ENOUGH hard accel/decl- this despite his route home including massive twisties like the Dragon.

Unfortunately RL search sucks, so good luck finding this, except by just reading through all his posts. Which is pretty much what I did. Even then you miss stuff like the guys who posted about his builds, etc, but the above is a pretty good summary.