neurotic

Hello fellas;

Getting slippage in my clutch and considering replacement after almost 4 years. Any advice on non-factory recommendations? No DE/track car--all back roads diving.

I'll stick to factory job if there is no overwhelming advantage to go aftermarket.

Appreciate the input.

Joec500

Typically people go with aftermarket clutches if they are increasing power, sometimes people go with aftermarket single mass flywheels while in there to make the motor more responsive. But as seen with folks in GT3's there could be engine resonance issues when departing from non-factory flywheels which could cause non-warranty engine damage.

Since your car is still under warranty, I would just go with an OEM clutch.

I paid about $2500 for parts and labor at the dealer for my 991.1 C2S, which should be mechanically identical to your car.

neurotic

that's what I figured. got the same quote also. I prefer to keep the car as stock as possible. just a weekend fun toy. thanks!

spiderv6

4 years? Is that the expected lifetime of a clutch? How many miles have you done?

neurotic

i can probably get another 20K miles and 3 odd years on it but slippage was bothering me lol

neurotic

I suspect these clutches last 50K with normal day-to-day use. my BMWs all lasted about 50-70k miles before needed a new clutch.

chuck911

I have never had a clutch not last at least 100k. Including in my 911 that in addition to being a daily did a ton of track and autocross over a 5 year stretch. If the clutch in your other cars all lasted less than half what they should, and now you're seeing the same thing here, maybe its not the car.

neurotic

I agree. it's always the end-user's fault. not denying it

911-TOUR

By slipping...what do you mean? Can you not launch from 2nd or 3rd because the engine is spinning and you're not getting engagement from the friction plate? Have you also tested the master/slave cylinder? These are more common at lower mileage.

sean

neurotic

I'll ask about the master/slave cylinder

does utilizing the auto-rev feature wear the clutch prematurely? I tend to believe this will only help preserve the clutch.

BlueNorther

I was going to ask if :
a) you mostly used auto rev matching
b) you mostly did your own heal toe/throttle blip
c) your response is "what is heal toe?"

I would think that auto rev matching would be kindest to your clutch unless you are as good as the computer at always perfectly rev matching on heal toe and throttle blips.

neurotic

I always use auto-rev. my show size (13s) hinders my ability for a competent heal-toe shift

911-TOUR

Do ask. It may be as simple as properly bleeding air from the hydraulic system. I'd be really surprised if your clutch is toast at 40K miles unless you really abused it - which is totally possible - but you'd really have to work at it in normal day-to-day use :-)

sean

Papa Fittig

You should've never needed a new clutch in what- 30K miles?
Should be no "slippage" yet.

worf928

A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, my wife and I went to Bragg-Smith Advanced Driving School (now Spring Mountain Advanced Driving School.)

One of the first things they instructed us on was what they called the "Huffman" or "Holman" start. (I forget which, or even if that's close, but the name doesn't really matter.)

This involves slowly releasing the clutch pedal and allowing the torque of the engine to start the car rolling without ever touching the gas pedal. Obviously, this only works with engines that produce some torque at idle.

They credited this technique with enabling them to forego replacing clutches every 15-20k miles of 'student use.'

Basically, using the 'go pedal' to increase RPM as you de-clutch is what kills clutch discs.