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I think you've chosen the best colour for the T and the best gearbox both incidentally free..PCCBs would be the first extra cost option i would pick and a close second would be RAS..I drove both RAS and non RAS 991S's at Silverstone last February as i was undecided on speccing it for my April build 991.2 GTS..I thought RAS was transformative at all speeds and while the non RAS understeered the RAS car turned in like a GT4 and was much more agile and neutral at all speeds.
RAS is unavailable on the basic 991 and by adding it to the T will give it the USP it deserves and give it a handling advantage over the basic 991.It also reduces its turning circle at low speeds making parking easier.
I fully realise its very easy to spend other peoples money however on the T the combination of manual,PCCBs and RAS will make it a cracking car..I also think its a wise decision not to spec the glass roof to keep the lightweight T ethos intact..
What kind of discount are people getting on the T builds so far? I am toying with trying to get one. Although it would mean selling my 964 which is a tough decision to say the least.
What kind of discount are people getting on the T builds so far? I am toying with trying to get one. Although it would mean selling my 964 which is a tough decision to say the least.
I got 2% off MSRP.
Just got my build date for April, so hoping car arrives May.
My build goes a bit against the spirit of the T, but because it will be my daily and not a track car I took the plunge when optioning out the car.
PDK
Glass black sunroof
Black front LEDs
Black tail lights
Color: standard White
Interior in white/silver
White instrument cluster + analogue
RAS
Entry+Drive keyless
I think my options totaled around $20,000+ from the base price in my country.
I can't wait until I win mine in the PCA raffle. I have a 50/50 chance. I'm either going to win or I am not. Right? Plus! I have a REALLY good feeling about his one. :-)
@...I asked if it was also possible to also drive a PCCB-equipped car but they said 'no' - it was just 1 person / 1 car.
There is a cost per car. If the test day is being funded by your OPC (rather than the free day that you get for purchasing a car), then say to your OPC that you also want to try a car with PCCB. Depending on your relationship with the OPC and the extent to which they want to make a sale they will make the call to the PEC and authorise a second car. I can't imagine the cost is great as the overall car time isn't extended.
I did just this. Main car for the test was a C2 manual with RAS and steels - closest I could get to my T spec - and then a C2S manual with PCCB.
PCCBs on the street? Hell I cant make an argument for them on the track.
I just think the T is more performance oriented in my mind and in my head it screams for PCCBs. Yes the T I would spec would be a weekend toy. Were I to get a DD Id go with the base PDK, 14 ways and a few other options.
Originally Posted by Ceepe
Other than the fact that PCCB's don't have a ton of stop when cold, they are better for a majority street driven car no doubt. Compared to a 380mm brake you can feel the difference in unsprung weight, granted we're comparing to a 330mm setup in this case, but how does one not want 410mm lightweight rotors on a somewhat lightweight themed car?. I have a base car and I will say the 330mm brakes seem a little underbraked compared to the 380's and PCCB 410's. I think the pedal firmness on the PCCB setup is a step up. And no brake dust. For a car seeing heavy track duties the PCCB option would in fact not be desirable based on the costs and wear and delicacy. Heavily tracked cars always run standard brakes.
Ceepe is right on. You can actually feel a big difference on the street with PCCB's due to the reduction in unsprung weight and rotational mass. The car feels more brisk under acceleration and the biggest difference is the way the car responds on bumpy roads. That reduction in unsprung weight allows the suspension to react and respond much faster, resulting in both better ride quality as well as better grip/handling. PCCB's offer far more than braking ability. Also, if you don't track the car it's unlikely that you'll ever have to replace the PCCB rotors. But you'll definitely be replacing steel rotors, which means you'll pay approx $2,000-2,500 for a complete set of steel brakes instead of $900-1,000 for just PCCB pads. If PCCB rotors aren't overheated, they wear very slowly on both a physical and molecular density level. That's the mistake people make when tracking a car with PCCB's. If they are driving with some level of traction control on and are a good enough driver to push the car, they'll cook the rear rotors in no time. Especially on the cars with torque vectoring. On the flip side, if they're not running with any traction control on they're likely an experienced driver that's confident in their abilities to push the car. The problem with that is the PCCB's are so damn good they really don't give you any feedback as to how much brake input is too much. Throw in a set of sticky tires like the PS Cup's and those folks are seeing some very high rotor temps. Which leads me back to my comment about molecular density. Most people are not aware that there are two service life measurements involved with PCCB rotors. One is material thickness, just like a regular rotor. The other is molecular density. Overheating the rotors at the track will result in rapid loss of molecular density and you have zero warning when this occurs. The only way to monitor it would be via uber expensive motorsports style brake temp sensors that read and record rotor temps real time, checking the rotors with a infrared thermometer immediately after a session although that won't give you anywhere close to peak temps after a cool down lap, or buy a $6,000 tool that will measure the molecular density and take the time to check them often. This is why the hardcore track rats prefer good old steel brakes vs PCCB's. No one like the idea of spending $30k for a complete set of PCCB pads and rotors. Especially if you track the car enough to require that expense 2-3 times a year. $60-90k for brakes alone over one year of track events, LOOK OUT! Last time I checked MSRP on rear PCCB rotors was approx. $6,400 a piece. Just looked at a 991 C2S/C4S and including labor and PA tax it was $30,795! That's over $2,000 in tax alone!!! A GT3 was just shy of $33,000. Granted, those are retail MSRP prices. As far as brake noise goes, PCCB's are prone to make noise. But, as the manager of a Porsche service department, I can also tell you that the steel brakes tend to be just as noisy and people complain about them all the time. Usually a result of pad glazing from too much light stop and go braking without enough heavy braking. Usually the people complaining about steel brake noise are the ones who never drive the car the way it's intended to be driven, then threaten to file lemon law because the car they chose to purchase doesn't meet their specific expectation. Well it's a Porsche, what did you expect?
PCCB's are never practical, but man, I just love them... we're trying to spec out a Macan GTS for the wifey, and I keep saying we need PCCBs on it...especially since I'll be doing a lot of driving myself
Blueflame,
It is a fairly easy job for your dealer's parts team to order up just the yellow door pulls and then have them swapped over before you take delivery. That's what I did in my Cayman GT4 as I wanted red door pulls to match the red belts I spec'ed but the factory said no. The dealer did the swap over and it made a huge difference to the interior. Here are a before and after shot.
01-14-2018, 07:12 PM
