991.1 Battery Replacement DIY
03-20-2019, 11:37 PM
#256
Instructor
PS - sometimes acronyms just aren't a great idea 😜
03-21-2019, 10:28 PM
#257
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I had an unsettling experience and wonder if this is normal or what? I have a CTEK 7002 plugged into to my garaged 991.2 with the eyelet pigtails (+ to the positive on the battery and - to the ground point on the car) I got in the car, turned on the ignition (without starting it) with the CTEK still hooked up and turned on. The electronics of the car went crazy: dash lights and headlights flashing on and off, sports chrono and stereo going on and off etc. I turned the key off right away got out of car, disconnected the charger got back in the car turned on the ignition and everything seems ok with the exception of having to reset the driver's side window position setting. In checking out the charger to reconnect it I found that the inline 15A fuse had blown so I replaced that and hooked it back up. I thought I could get in the car and use the electronics while the charger was still connected but evidently not. The battery was fully charged. Wondering why the electronics were trying to draw +15A from the charger resulting in a blown fuse? The CTEK manual doesn't mention anything against doing this. Is this a no no? Anyone else have this happen? I know I'll be avoiding doing this again in the future.
03-21-2019, 11:16 PM
#258
Rennlist Member
They also sell a Bosch AGM as well in the same size. Originally $195 with the same 25% and BOTH the Bosch and Champion have $40 mail in rebates. I bought the Bosch today and net cost will be $115. Must be purchased before 3/31/19 for the rebate though so hurry!
03-21-2019, 11:46 PM
#259
I had an unsettling experience and wonder if this is normal or what? I have a CTEK 7002 plugged into to my garaged 991.2 with the eyelet pigtails (+ to the positive on the battery and - to the ground point on the car) I got in the car, turned on the ignition (without starting it) with the CTEK still hooked up and turned on. The electronics of the car went crazy: dash lights and headlights flashing on and off, sports chrono and stereo going on and off etc. I turned the key off right away got out of car, disconnected the charger got back in the car turned on the ignition and everything seems ok with the exception of having to reset the driver's side window position setting. In checking out the charger to reconnect it I found that the inline 15A fuse had blown so I replaced that and hooked it back up. I thought I could get in the car and use the electronics while the charger was still connected but evidently not. The battery was fully charged. Wondering why the electronics were trying to draw +15A from the charger resulting in a blown fuse? The CTEK manual doesn't mention anything against doing this. Is this a no no? Anyone else have this happen? I know I'll be avoiding doing this again in the future.
03-22-2019, 08:51 AM
#260
Any particular size or type to get, other than what’s specified in their materials at the store?
If I keep the charger plugged in while changing the battery will I need to program anything afterwards, or not, or does it vary by individual vehicle?
Thanks
03-22-2019, 12:21 PM
#261
Rennlist Member
Going to stop at Pep Boys to pick one up today. Is there a consensus on whether it’s best to get the Bosch or Champion, if both are available?
Any particular size or type to get, other than what’s specified in their materials at the store?
If I keep the charger plugged in while changing the battery will I need to program anything afterwards, or not, or does it vary by individual vehicle?
Thanks
03-22-2019, 02:26 PM
#262
Intermediate
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I also have a CTEK 7002 and I have never experienced what you did. Both your battery and charger are connected in parallel and since the 15 amp inline fuse blew it leads me to believe you may have a loose or dirty connection on one or both of your battery terminals which could have caused a temporary open condition causing a current surge on your battery tender resulting in a blown 15 amp fuse. The flashing lights and horn in my opinion were also an effect caused by a temporary open condition.
03-22-2019, 02:51 PM
#263
Rennlist Member
I had an unsettling experience and wonder if this is normal or what? I have a CTEK 7002 plugged into to my garaged 991.2 with the eyelet pigtails (+ to the positive on the battery and - to the ground point on the car) I got in the car, turned on the ignition (without starting it) with the CTEK still hooked up and turned on. The electronics of the car went crazy: dash lights and headlights flashing on and off, sports chrono and stereo going on and off etc. I turned the key off right away got out of car, disconnected the charger got back in the car turned on the ignition and everything seems ok with the exception of having to reset the driver's side window position setting. In checking out the charger to reconnect it I found that the inline 15A fuse had blown so I replaced that and hooked it back up. I thought I could get in the car and use the electronics while the charger was still connected but evidently not. The battery was fully charged. Wondering why the electronics were trying to draw +15A from the charger resulting in a blown fuse? The CTEK manual doesn't mention anything against doing this. Is this a no no? Anyone else have this happen? I know I'll be avoiding doing this again in the future.
03-23-2019, 10:47 AM
#264
As a follow-up, I haven't gotten a fix from icarsoft yet; i emailed them a log file.
In the meantime, I found my new mechanic for all things porsche in houston. Einar's garage in Seabrook. I took my car over there just to say hi and check out the shop. The tech connected the PIWIS II and asked me what I want to put in the battery change section. I put 95 ah, AMG, old porsche battery serial and 99961109510 as the part number. Old battery had 070 in the bolded part.
my other mechanic in houston said oh don't worry about! we change batteries and we don't do anything in the car. Einar's tech said it doesn't affect the car but it affects the life of the new battery. I highly doubt porsche would add this extra step to indicate battery capacity and type for no damn reason.
I noticed my voltage came dowe to 13.3V in normal mode after cars been running for a while and up to 14.5V in sport on the highway.
I might return the icarsoft since I have no use for it for a year, and it didn't do the battery thing like how i hoped it would.
In the meantime, I found my new mechanic for all things porsche in houston. Einar's garage in Seabrook. I took my car over there just to say hi and check out the shop. The tech connected the PIWIS II and asked me what I want to put in the battery change section. I put 95 ah, AMG, old porsche battery serial and 99961109510 as the part number. Old battery had 070 in the bolded part.
my other mechanic in houston said oh don't worry about! we change batteries and we don't do anything in the car. Einar's tech said it doesn't affect the car but it affects the life of the new battery. I highly doubt porsche would add this extra step to indicate battery capacity and type for no damn reason.
I noticed my voltage came dowe to 13.3V in normal mode after cars been running for a while and up to 14.5V in sport on the highway.
I might return the icarsoft since I have no use for it for a year, and it didn't do the battery thing like how i hoped it would.
03-23-2019, 01:53 PM
#265
I relented. I was holding out the wide availability of antigravity coinciding with my annual service in June for PIWIS battery info entering. However, the deal at Pep Boys was too good to pass up. As a bonus, they are even taking care of the installation. While my battery tested out ok, it is 6+ years old and I consider this preventive maintenance.
Immediately after the change, the charging voltage dropped to low-to-mid 13 volts with *** (
) working again (just one time to see if it was working). With Sport on, 14.2-14.4 Volts. Everything seems to be working fine. The only thing was that I had to reset the driver side window with the 3-sec holds in the fully up/down positions despite having a power source connected through the fuse panel during the battery swap.
Immediately after the change, the charging voltage dropped to low-to-mid 13 volts with *** (
) working again (just one time to see if it was working). With Sport on, 14.2-14.4 Volts. Everything seems to be working fine. The only thing was that I had to reset the driver side window with the 3-sec holds in the fully up/down positions despite having a power source connected through the fuse panel during the battery swap.
Last edited by kilster; 03-23-2019 at 04:08 PM.
