NF4710

Wish this DIY was around when I did mine with the same battery. Great job. Battery has been working well for me. Took car to dealer and they said they didn't need to program anything. So far so good but I will note my car is in the mid to high 14V when driving (granted I have been doing many short drives recently).

Cheers,
NF

neil.schneider

I did mine a few months ago. My car was a 2012.5. It was still starting fine, but there was a slight delay. I did it just to be safe and I used a Bosch.

CSK 911 C4S

Great write up.

My 5 year old battery is pushing it's luck with these single digit temps.

Just remember with using an aux power source like a tender when changing batteries, the battery cables are "hot" so be aware not to ground out the positive cable to any metal.

RDCR

I'm running a Braille I48ce in the GTS. Works great but a lithium based battery minder is recommended if the car has to sit for any period of time. I'm using the Ctek for lithium batteries.

drcollie

This battery, because of its weight (10 lb) , would be like adding appx 4.7 HP to the car mathematically vs that 58 lb battery. it does come at a price however:

​​​​​​https://www.braillebattery.com/index...atteries/i48ce

I've been running Lithium batteries in my motorcycles for several years now - they do last far longer and perform better than the OEM type batteries. I personally can't see installing a 58 lb battery at steering wheel height in a performance car, this will be my next upgrade when my original battery kicks.

daberlin

FYI folks, it's a DIY for ANY battery you install :-) Lots of other threads debate WHICH battery to buy. That said, I own a C4S. I was fine with an extra 10lbs over the front wheels; figured it actually might help with traction. I don't track the car, so I wasn't gonna lose sleep over the weight differential of the new battery vs. stock, but I took the weight measurements because like you, I was surprised at the size difference between the two. Took the car out tonight to Beverly Hills and it still felt (butt dyno) as wonderful as it always has blasting onto and off of freeways, and I'm sure it'll be fine in my occasional canyon carving exploits. I'm happy with my choice of battery. Cost + 90 additional CCA's over OEM + 4 year free replacement warranty were the best out there. I'm good.

Wishing you all a happy and healthy new year.

Porsche_nuts

Over $1600 for a battery? Plus you need a special lithium charger? That's nuts. Happy New Year.

subshooter

Thanks for the write up. Very well done. I assume the process and configuration is identical for my 981 Boxster? I will be doing that in the Spring.

Needsdecaf

LexVan

Very nice write-up. Thank you.

Does the tire pump and kit always need to be removed, or only when upsizing the battery?

How many CCA in the factory OE battery? How many CCA in the new upsize battery?

daberlin

Hi Lex. Happy New Year. Removing the tire pump box is not related to battery size. I suppose with a thin face or flex ratchet and some patience you could remove the two 13mm nuts that secure the bracket over the battery without removing the tire pump kit/box. There is a 'channel' (see in Photo #4) that could accommodate skipping this step. However, when I was assessing that option, I was concerned with dropping one or both 13mm nuts after loosening them and would have ended up having to remove that tire pump kit/box if that had happened. Far easier just removing it as part of the process. Two additional T20 screws and it lifts right out. Much easier access to that bracket once the tire pump box is removed.

My OEM battery is stamped 760A (CCAs). The new one I purchased has 850 CCAs.

daberlin

Exactly the same.

StormRune

Nicely done write-up! I went with the same battery just a couple of weeks ago based upon prior suggestions by R-Rated and others.

The instructions you provided match right up with how I did it (and yes I disconnected negative first). I assume you'll respond to LexVan, but while I'm here I'll just call out that I couldn't see a way to get to the front bracket bolt without removing the tire kit. That was simple to do though.

Note that Batteries Plus offered a 10% discount for ordering online before going to the store for pickup... so assuming that is always in effect it's a quick $20 back in your pocket.

One thing you didn't mention that I ran into was I had to work a bit to wrestle the negative cable over to reach the new hookup position since the battery takes up the full tray the cable was apparently made just to be able to reach that position... at least mine was. When wrestling it over be careful not to make a connection with your hand between the negative battery terminal and the cable. Or wait to hook the positive until you have the negative poised in the right spot (but not hooked up). I'd recommend some good gloves just to be safe.

The capacity rating increases from 70 amps for the one I removed to 92 amps. I figured that was a plus since I've wired my Thinkware dashcam run in parking mode when I'm out away from home. I'll usually unplug it at home to reduce drain on the battery. The Thinkware has a built-in shutoff if the battery drops below a voltage you specify in its app and/or after parking mode has been active a certain amount of time. I set it for a 12.3 volt shutoff and 6 hours max but haven't found out how long that will let the camera run yet. The CCA number for the OEM was 740 and this Duracell is 850.

One last note is that posts have been saying that you are supposed to have the dealer do some sort of battery "reset" when you install a new battery. Apparently the car changes its charging behavior as the battery gets older so it will be healthier for the new battery if you do this.

daberlin

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Hothonda

THX...Well written & easy to follow.