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My dealer basically says that you will die instantly if you don't pay them to reprogram your car for every service....
Batter Change - wanted 3 hours of labor plus cost to reprogram.
Clear corners - 1 hour of labor plus cost to reprogram the car.
SPASM lip - 2 hours of labor plus cost to reprogram the car.
That's about 1300 in quotes I have for these 3 things added up. Completed them all in my driveway in under 30 minutes collectively. Oh - no reprogramming. It's ridiculous and unethical I feel.
I have a bunch of items with batteries and some are in difficult locations to disconnect and take them to a auto parts store to test.
I've tested 2 so far. My 88 Scirocco battery passed , the 13 Porsche C4S so far failed because the tested said needed a charge..... but it's been driven and on a tender so I have a feeling it's on its way out.
Perhaps Durametric could be used for a reset -- if a reset is necessary.
Pulled my Durametic cable and software out today and had a poke through all the different menus and submenus. I found no tests that could check the status of the battery or any details of the previous battery installed. I suspect this could be PIWIS only.
PS - I called Durametric customer service and they confirmed they have no Car Battery related functionality.
My dealer basically says that you will die instantly if you don't pay them to reprogram your car for every service....
Batter Change - wanted 3 hours of labor plus cost to reprogram.
Clear corners - 1 hour of labor plus cost to reprogram the car.
SPASM lip - 2 hours of labor plus cost to reprogram the car.
That's about 1300 in quotes I have for these 3 things added up. Completed them all in my driveway in under 30 minutes collectively. Oh - no reprogramming. It's ridiculous and unethical I feel.
Next up: dealer refueling with Porsche-branded "energy fluid". Only $18.95 per liter and 2 hours of labor, including reprograming the fuel gauge.
Sadly I would take what dealers tell you with a grain of salt in my experience. They usually aren't deep product experts (amazingly) and should check their manuals when they don't know something, but they generally dont and instead ask the mechanic who's been there the longest what to do. They also love dealing with Rennlist people, especially when you have access to TSBs and question them on why they do/don't do things
So are there any AGM batteries that are lighter than OEM and still have decent performance. I have to say $1600 for a Lithium one is a bit hard to swallow...I'd be willing to pay a few hundred for better performance/weight though!
Sadly I would take what dealers tell you with a grain of salt in my experience. They usually aren't deep product experts (amazingly) and should check their manuals when they don't know something, but they generally dont and instead ask the mechanic who's been there the longest what to do. They also love dealing with Rennlist people, especially when you have access to TSBs and question them on why they do/don't do things
FYI, I installed pigtails on all my outdoor cars today, so I could easily plug them in when they need a charge... The 991 connectors are a PITA, the nuts don't want to come completely off the bolt and if you insist, the square end eventually spins free after chewing through the clamp... All this to say I disconnected my battery for 15 minutes, and before that accidentally 5-6 times in a row, in order to replace all the nuts/bolts/pigtails/washers... The car needed *only* a window reset (even then only the driver's!) , that it all.. It even remembered what song I played last...
Last time I put a charger on while working on it, not next time. It's fine...
Follow up.... You can barely see the connector, looks like I can leave it here no problem, it's weather proof and no cutting nor drilling the cover. It'll rain all day tomorrow, I'll check it out in the evening to see if I should push it back completely under the cover...
The main reason it did this is to take out the guess work: seems that on modern cars, the moment you open a hood, the entire car fires up: ECU, CPU, dash, and therefore the battery reading is artificially low... Aside from a quick connect, the pigtail will allow me to check the real "unmolested/asleep" voltage, and also to recharge it without waking it up at all...
I'm curious about this because I've noticed my wife's Range rover does the same crap as my 991, reads 12.3V when you open the lid, but with the battery out of the car, it reads a normal 12.6+. Seems to me you cannot check *actual* battery voltage anymore on a modern car without something like pigtails sticking out... Progress ?!
Just replaced the battery in my 2013 C4 with the DIY Duracell. A piece of cake as long as you're quick lifting the 58 lb. battery into position while standing bent over in the frunk.
Just replaced the battery in my 2013 C4 with the DIY Duracell. A piece of cake as long as you're quick lifting the 58 lb. battery into position while standing bent over in the frunk.
how did you know it was time to replace your battery other than car not starting?
01-04-2018, 03:09 PM
, the 13 Porsche C4S so far failed because the tested said needed a charge..... but it's been driven and on a tender so I have a feeling it's on its way out. 
