Back in a Porsche - 991S X51 Aero
#16
Race Director
Originally Posted by Needsdecaf
Criminey, $18k for the Powerkit. What is that, $1k per HP? I forgot it cost that much.
The GTS bundled package is a great deal.
#17
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
THIS car is a SCREAMING deal.
#19
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#22
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#23
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I officially kicked off this project. I am going to keep things relatively simple. I plan on addressing the suspension, wheels, exhaust, and a few things in the interior.
My plan for wheels is BBS E88s in 19x11.5 and 19x9.5.
And my plan for the suspension is the Elephant Racing coilover conversion kit
I started on the suspension yesterday and I wanted to show off my technique for getting the 991 on traditional jack stands. I take no responsibility if you want to give this a shot but this is what works for me.
I used the standard rear jack points to lift one side and insert a ramp under the wheel.
Once the car is resting on the single, or I guess you could do both sides, ramp, I moved to the jack to the rear of the car and lifted from where the cross member and lower control arm meet. The cross member should have no problem supporting the weight of the car and this portion of the cross member is particularly beefy.
I use traditional height adjustable jack stands and add a hockey puck at the top. The hockey puck will form around the jack point and, in my experience, will not damage the underside of the car.
This puck has cracked a little from repeated use on my other cars.
Ready to go. I used the Elephant Racing "tech topics" about their C2/S program and coilover conversion as instructions. They are the best instructions I have seen so there is no need for me to go through the whole process here. That being said, I did notice a few things that could be clarified.
https://www.elephantracing.com/tech-...mance-program/
I have a little bit of OCD when it comes to cars and cleanliness and things like rusty hubs bother me. I used a standard rust eating gel and brush to get all this rust off.
Rear shock removed. I have the whole rear interior of the car out of the car. I am in the process of removing the tint as well as removing/deleting the rear seats. Taking out the whole rear carpet area makes it much easier to access the rear shock towers.
I don't have a picture of it but I also unbolted and loosened the whole rear sway bar. Doing so allowed me to twist it out of the way and give me a little more room to wiggle the shock assembly out of the car and get it back in. Otherwise, its a much more painful process, in my opinion.
I rebuilt the shock per Elephant Racings directions. Very easy to do. No cutting is required even though their instructions call for it on the front shocks. Of note, the lower spring perch, upper spring pad, and dust boot are not re-used on the rears. I will provide any notes on the front conversion when I get to it. Getting the Hypercoil spring over the metal shock mount took some motivation with a rubber mallet.
Re-installed in the car. Getting the shock assembly in the car is much easier with the smaller diameter spring and lack of a spring perch. A pry bar or large screwdriver will help you "pry"/motivate the lower shock assembly back over the wheel carrier.
Notice the cleaned up hub. I felt this was important since I am going with a wheel that doesn't normally have center caps. I sealed the hub with a product called B8 that should prevent corrosion.
Quick shot with the rear complete. Between cleaning the hubs and doing the suspension work, I spent about 6 hours doing the rear. The fronts should be much faster. Right now the car is sitting 1/2 inch lower than the OE SPASM ride height... which is low.
My plan for wheels is BBS E88s in 19x11.5 and 19x9.5.
And my plan for the suspension is the Elephant Racing coilover conversion kit
I started on the suspension yesterday and I wanted to show off my technique for getting the 991 on traditional jack stands. I take no responsibility if you want to give this a shot but this is what works for me.
I used the standard rear jack points to lift one side and insert a ramp under the wheel.
Once the car is resting on the single, or I guess you could do both sides, ramp, I moved to the jack to the rear of the car and lifted from where the cross member and lower control arm meet. The cross member should have no problem supporting the weight of the car and this portion of the cross member is particularly beefy.
I use traditional height adjustable jack stands and add a hockey puck at the top. The hockey puck will form around the jack point and, in my experience, will not damage the underside of the car.
This puck has cracked a little from repeated use on my other cars.
Ready to go. I used the Elephant Racing "tech topics" about their C2/S program and coilover conversion as instructions. They are the best instructions I have seen so there is no need for me to go through the whole process here. That being said, I did notice a few things that could be clarified.
https://www.elephantracing.com/tech-...mance-program/
I have a little bit of OCD when it comes to cars and cleanliness and things like rusty hubs bother me. I used a standard rust eating gel and brush to get all this rust off.
Rear shock removed. I have the whole rear interior of the car out of the car. I am in the process of removing the tint as well as removing/deleting the rear seats. Taking out the whole rear carpet area makes it much easier to access the rear shock towers.
I don't have a picture of it but I also unbolted and loosened the whole rear sway bar. Doing so allowed me to twist it out of the way and give me a little more room to wiggle the shock assembly out of the car and get it back in. Otherwise, its a much more painful process, in my opinion.
I rebuilt the shock per Elephant Racings directions. Very easy to do. No cutting is required even though their instructions call for it on the front shocks. Of note, the lower spring perch, upper spring pad, and dust boot are not re-used on the rears. I will provide any notes on the front conversion when I get to it. Getting the Hypercoil spring over the metal shock mount took some motivation with a rubber mallet.
Re-installed in the car. Getting the shock assembly in the car is much easier with the smaller diameter spring and lack of a spring perch. A pry bar or large screwdriver will help you "pry"/motivate the lower shock assembly back over the wheel carrier.
Notice the cleaned up hub. I felt this was important since I am going with a wheel that doesn't normally have center caps. I sealed the hub with a product called B8 that should prevent corrosion.
Quick shot with the rear complete. Between cleaning the hubs and doing the suspension work, I spent about 6 hours doing the rear. The fronts should be much faster. Right now the car is sitting 1/2 inch lower than the OE SPASM ride height... which is low.
#24
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Damn, is that an 8 series and an E9x with a supercharger? Nice lineup!
Oh, nice job on the car too! IMO, the 19's with chunky sidewalks will look fantastic with those wheels!
Oh, nice job on the car too! IMO, the 19's with chunky sidewalks will look fantastic with those wheels!
#25
Nice work JEllis. A bit of an off-topic question: could that rust remover gel be used at the inner edge and outer edge of the brake rotors? Mine have looked pretty bad since the car was new. I would love to clean them up a bit in the spring when I do my swap back to my summer wheels...
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Nice work JEllis. A bit of an off-topic question: could that rust remover gel be used at the inner edge and outer edge of the brake rotors? Mine have looked pretty bad since the car was new. I would love to clean them up a bit in the spring when I do my swap back to my summer wheels...
Thanks... yes I have an E31 840 Supercharged beater.... and I also have an E92 M3, I used to have an SC on it but its back to NA now.