Wheel / tire TRACK SETUP
10-19-2017, 11:24 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
I do. It costs more to lose a track day doing it yourself not to mention the PIA of having to take temps while doing it. These tires, even when properly heat cycled do not last very long under aggressive driving conditions. I have not driven them without heat cycling first, perhaps others can chime in who do not heat cycle.
10-21-2017, 03:28 PM
#18
Race Director
This is not a true statement. I have a 4S and run 19" wheels at the track and 20's around town with 255 fronts. Even in the display I have an option for 19's or 20's. You just have to keep the difference from front to rear less then 5% I believe. Can't remember the exact number off the top of my head, but you can search on here for it.
10-21-2017, 03:29 PM
#19
Race Director
NO...not for track events....I tired the heat cycle thing back on my 997GTS when I was running Too R888's because a lot of us were having butter tread separation at the seem. The heat cycle made no difference at all to this issue or tire wear. Eventually I and many other stopped using the R888 and moved to the Nitto NT01 which was a much much better tire. Never heat cycled other than heating the tires up bedding in the brake and driving the car 100 miles to the track.
01-06-2018, 05:07 AM
#20
Burning Brakes
I went with OZ Leggera HLT in 19's. I like 255 in the front, for better front end grip. Cup 2's are great, and have also tried Bridgestone RE71R and feel like they have better change of direction then the Sport cup 2s.
Great thing about those two tires are you can drive to events on them.
Great thing about those two tires are you can drive to events on them.
01-06-2018, 04:31 PM
#21
Sorry, I misunderstood what you were saying, you are correct. Though you meant you couldn't run 19's.
01-06-2018, 04:35 PM
#22
I've been very happy with them and they are lighter then the oem wheels. Not sure about the cap, they look like they would be close. I'll be swapping wheels next weekend and will see if they fit or not.
01-06-2018, 04:41 PM
#23
While I'm thinking about it. Sport Cup 2's are not designed for temperatures below 55 degrees. I had one delaminate on me at an autocross with the air temperature at 50 degrees. Spoke with Michelin's performance group and it is a known limitation of the tire. He recommended running tire pressures in the 40's if you were in cold temperatures, but overall did not recommend it. Just thought you should know.
01-07-2018, 09:49 AM
#24
Burning Brakes
While I'm thinking about it. Sport Cup 2's are not designed for temperatures below 55 degrees. I had one delaminate on me at an autocross with the air temperature at 50 degrees. Spoke with Michelin's performance group and it is a known limitation of the tire. He recommended running tire pressures in the 40's if you were in cold temperatures, but overall did not recommend it. Just thought you should know.
01-07-2018, 10:14 AM
#25
Rennlist Member
While I'm thinking about it. Sport Cup 2's are not designed for temperatures below 55 degrees. I had one delaminate on me at an autocross with the air temperature at 50 degrees. Spoke with Michelin's performance group and it is a known limitation of the tire. He recommended running tire pressures in the 40's if you were in cold temperatures, but overall did not recommend it. Just thought you should know.
As someone else mentioned, do NOT go to slick, or even aggressive R-Comp tires until you have advanced enough to feel the car slide at high speeds (slip angle). As also mentioned, the SC2 is a lot of tire and more than enough for anyone with less than 20 track days under their belt.
I can also confirm that as you go to a more aggressive tire you need to dial in more camber, and stiffen the suspension (which can be improved with the DSC module). On a positive note, oil starvation has yet to rear its ugly head with my 9A1 engine - thank goodness. I run data and have been amazed at the consistency of my oil pressure on both high speed tracks like WGI and tight technical tracks.
I purchased my car used at the end of 2015, ran a little over 40 track days in 2016 and again in 2017 (with at least 40 scheduled for 2018) and can say that with proper maintenance (oil change at least every 5 track days) that the engine has been rock solid - the transmission is another story...
01-08-2018, 11:25 PM
#26
Racer
Join Date: Dec 2017
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Michelin cup 2 tire are more than sufficient. The new P4S would even be more than fine... For wheels - make sure you get something reputable and forged for the track - not flow forged or rotary forged as those are made up things for marketing. Just. Forged.
OZ is good as someone mentioned. CCW is another tried and true that I highly recommend. Of course there is HRE and the like but you want something strong and light > pretty.
OZ is good as someone mentioned. CCW is another tried and true that I highly recommend. Of course there is HRE and the like but you want something strong and light > pretty.
https://rennlist.com/forums/wheel-an...or-2013-a.html
Even BBS makes flow formed wheels.
01-09-2018, 03:58 AM
#27
Can someone please elaborate on this?
01-09-2018, 02:39 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
Porsche will not warranty any failure, even if the car is under warranty, if it occurs on track.
Oil starvation is not an issue with the 987.2/997.2 and 981/991 engines, so no worry there.
We do however recommend using a race oil if you are tracking the car due to the excessive oil temperatures these engines run >300F on track.
Oil starvation is not an issue with the 987.2/997.2 and 981/991 engines, so no worry there.
We do however recommend using a race oil if you are tracking the car due to the excessive oil temperatures these engines run >300F on track.
01-09-2018, 03:15 PM
#29
Slicks can generate lateral cornering forces high enough to slosh oil so far to the side it isn't picked up by oil scavengers, which instead get air, so that instead of a nice constant stream of lubrication the engine gets big gaps of no lubrication at all. Not good.
Another problem with slicks, they are nowhere near as forgiving. Street tires have tread blocks that squirm and transition from grip to slide rather gradually. The more and the bigger the tread blocks the more gradual the transition. Also the total tread depth is a lot greater. With slicks there are no tread blocks, and the total tread depth is very shallow. This is great for response. With the type of car they are made for (mono-ball suspension, no rubber play anywhere) slicks allow you to transition very fast from accelerating to braking. But brake or corner a little too hard, they transition into breaking loose and sliding a lot faster too.
This is just like the suspension setup discussed in another thread, where the stiffest suspension is not always the best. Slicks are way too specialized for a generalized car like a Carrera. Heck they are too specialized for a GT3! Even a GT3 needs mods to run slicks properly.
But this is all sort of beside the point. Which is track driving. The goal of which is (or should be) developing driving skills. As opposed to racing. The goal of which is to win. Different goals. Different tools.
Another problem with slicks, they are nowhere near as forgiving. Street tires have tread blocks that squirm and transition from grip to slide rather gradually. The more and the bigger the tread blocks the more gradual the transition. Also the total tread depth is a lot greater. With slicks there are no tread blocks, and the total tread depth is very shallow. This is great for response. With the type of car they are made for (mono-ball suspension, no rubber play anywhere) slicks allow you to transition very fast from accelerating to braking. But brake or corner a little too hard, they transition into breaking loose and sliding a lot faster too.
This is just like the suspension setup discussed in another thread, where the stiffest suspension is not always the best. Slicks are way too specialized for a generalized car like a Carrera. Heck they are too specialized for a GT3! Even a GT3 needs mods to run slicks properly.
But this is all sort of beside the point. Which is track driving. The goal of which is (or should be) developing driving skills. As opposed to racing. The goal of which is to win. Different goals. Different tools.
01-09-2018, 05:36 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
This isn't true. I came straight off the track to the dealership with a malfunctioning gearbox, still had my helmet and track stuff in the car as well as my stickers. No problems, transmission replaced courtesy of PCNA. Plus I got a lot of positive comments from the staff at the dealership.