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Wheel / tire TRACK SETUP

Old 10-19-2017, 11:02 AM
  #16  
RODOLFO04
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Very informative

do must of you order the heat cycle Service?
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Old 10-19-2017, 11:24 AM
  #17  
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I do. It costs more to lose a track day doing it yourself not to mention the PIA of having to take temps while doing it. These tires, even when properly heat cycled do not last very long under aggressive driving conditions. I have not driven them without heat cycling first, perhaps others can chime in who do not heat cycle.
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Old 10-21-2017, 03:28 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by jwr9152 View Post
This is not a true statement. I have a 4S and run 19" wheels at the track and 20's around town with 255 fronts. Even in the display I have an option for 19's or 20's. You just have to keep the difference from front to rear less then 5% I believe. Can't remember the exact number off the top of my head, but you can search on here for it.
Absolutely ture and a fact. You can run 19" or 20" as long as you keep the front to rear overall diameter same as stock. Outside of stock overall diameter front to rear you will end up ruining the transfer case.
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Old 10-21-2017, 03:29 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RODOLFO04 View Post
Very informative

do must of you order the heat cycle Service?
NO...not for track events....I tired the heat cycle thing back on my 997GTS when I was running Too R888's because a lot of us were having butter tread separation at the seem. The heat cycle made no difference at all to this issue or tire wear. Eventually I and many other stopped using the R888 and moved to the Nitto NT01 which was a much much better tire. Never heat cycled other than heating the tires up bedding in the brake and driving the car 100 miles to the track.
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Old 01-06-2018, 05:07 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jwr9152 View Post
I went with OZ Leggera HLT in 19's. I like 255 in the front, for better front end grip. Cup 2's are great, and have also tried Bridgestone RE71R and feel like they have better change of direction then the Sport cup 2s.

Great thing about those two tires are you can drive to events on them.
I’m thinking of a similar setup for my 991tt (5 lug). OZ Leggera HLT wheels and OEM size SC2 tires. How are you liking your OZ wheels? They’re surprisingly light for cast wheels. Will Porsche crest caps fit?
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Old 01-06-2018, 04:31 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by mdrums View Post
Absolutely ture and a fact. You can run 19" or 20" as long as you keep the front to rear overall diameter same as stock. Outside of stock overall diameter front to rear you will end up ruining the transfer case.
Sorry, I misunderstood what you were saying, you are correct. Though you meant you couldn't run 19's.
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Old 01-06-2018, 04:35 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Need4S View Post
I’m thinking of a similar setup for my 991tt (5 lug). OZ Leggera HLT wheels and OEM size SC2 tires. How are you liking your OZ wheels? They’re surprisingly light for cast wheels. Will Porsche crest caps fit?
I've been very happy with them and they are lighter then the oem wheels. Not sure about the cap, they look like they would be close. I'll be swapping wheels next weekend and will see if they fit or not.
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Old 01-06-2018, 04:41 PM
  #23  
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While I'm thinking about it. Sport Cup 2's are not designed for temperatures below 55 degrees. I had one delaminate on me at an autocross with the air temperature at 50 degrees. Spoke with Michelin's performance group and it is a known limitation of the tire. He recommended running tire pressures in the 40's if you were in cold temperatures, but overall did not recommend it. Just thought you should know.
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Old 01-07-2018, 09:49 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jwr9152 View Post
While I'm thinking about it. Sport Cup 2's are not designed for temperatures below 55 degrees. I had one delaminate on me at an autocross with the air temperature at 50 degrees. Spoke with Michelin's performance group and it is a known limitation of the tire. He recommended running tire pressures in the 40's if you were in cold temperatures, but overall did not recommend it. Just thought you should know.
Thanks for the feedback on your wheels and tires. Plenty of people around here run SC2s year round, but I only plan to run them when temps improve in the spring, summer and fall, and then swap back to the OEM wheels and MPSS in the winter. I’ll be interested to hear whether the Porsche caps fit.
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Old 01-07-2018, 10:14 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by jwr9152 View Post
While I'm thinking about it. Sport Cup 2's are not designed for temperatures below 55 degrees. I had one delaminate on me at an autocross with the air temperature at 50 degrees. Spoke with Michelin's performance group and it is a known limitation of the tire. He recommended running tire pressures in the 40's if you were in cold temperatures, but overall did not recommend it. Just thought you should know.
I can confirm this - BTDT - even spoke with an engineer at Michelin about it.

As someone else mentioned, do NOT go to slick, or even aggressive R-Comp tires until you have advanced enough to feel the car slide at high speeds (slip angle). As also mentioned, the SC2 is a lot of tire and more than enough for anyone with less than 20 track days under their belt.

I can also confirm that as you go to a more aggressive tire you need to dial in more camber, and stiffen the suspension (which can be improved with the DSC module). On a positive note, oil starvation has yet to rear its ugly head with my 9A1 engine - thank goodness. I run data and have been amazed at the consistency of my oil pressure on both high speed tracks like WGI and tight technical tracks.

I purchased my car used at the end of 2015, ran a little over 40 track days in 2016 and again in 2017 (with at least 40 scheduled for 2018) and can say that with proper maintenance (oil change at least every 5 track days) that the engine has been rock solid - the transmission is another story...
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Old 01-08-2018, 11:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by R_Rated View Post
Michelin cup 2 tire are more than sufficient. The new P4S would even be more than fine... For wheels - make sure you get something reputable and forged for the track - not flow forged or rotary forged as those are made up things for marketing. Just. Forged.

OZ is good as someone mentioned. CCW is another tried and true that I highly recommend. Of course there is HRE and the like but you want something strong and light > pretty.
Aren't the OZ HLT line flow formed or HLT in their marketing speak? Nothing wrong with flow formed wheels. They are not as strong as fully forged wheels but as strong or stronger than cast wheels for a given price point. Many of us have been using flow formed wheels on track for years with no issues.

https://rennlist.com/forums/wheel-an...or-2013-a.html

Even BBS makes flow formed wheels.

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Old 01-09-2018, 03:58 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 991carreradriver View Post
You run the risk of blowing up your engine on the track running slicks on your car. PAG will not warranty it, if they find out or suspect you are running slicks. It's not to difficult to determine oil starvation from using slicks.
Can someone please elaborate on this?
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Old 01-09-2018, 02:39 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Nino View Post
Can someone please elaborate on this?
Porsche will not warranty any failure, even if the car is under warranty, if it occurs on track.

Oil starvation is not an issue with the 987.2/997.2 and 981/991 engines, so no worry there.

We do however recommend using a race oil if you are tracking the car due to the excessive oil temperatures these engines run >300F on track.
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Old 01-09-2018, 03:15 PM
  #29  
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Slicks can generate lateral cornering forces high enough to slosh oil so far to the side it isn't picked up by oil scavengers, which instead get air, so that instead of a nice constant stream of lubrication the engine gets big gaps of no lubrication at all. Not good.

Another problem with slicks, they are nowhere near as forgiving. Street tires have tread blocks that squirm and transition from grip to slide rather gradually. The more and the bigger the tread blocks the more gradual the transition. Also the total tread depth is a lot greater. With slicks there are no tread blocks, and the total tread depth is very shallow. This is great for response. With the type of car they are made for (mono-ball suspension, no rubber play anywhere) slicks allow you to transition very fast from accelerating to braking. But brake or corner a little too hard, they transition into breaking loose and sliding a lot faster too.

This is just like the suspension setup discussed in another thread, where the stiffest suspension is not always the best. Slicks are way too specialized for a generalized car like a Carrera. Heck they are too specialized for a GT3! Even a GT3 needs mods to run slicks properly.

But this is all sort of beside the point. Which is track driving. The goal of which is (or should be) developing driving skills. As opposed to racing. The goal of which is to win. Different goals. Different tools.
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Old 01-09-2018, 05:36 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Charles Navarro View Post
Porsche will not warranty any failure, even if the car is under warranty, if it occurs on track.
This isn't true. I came straight off the track to the dealership with a malfunctioning gearbox, still had my helmet and track stuff in the car as well as my stickers. No problems, transmission replaced courtesy of PCNA. Plus I got a lot of positive comments from the staff at the dealership.
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