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Did u use the mirror tap? Because routing only consist of putting the wire through the little slit whick takes like 2 seconds. Hate to hear of broken parts
Yes, I used the mirror tap wire, and as advertised it took about 10!seconds to get them both connected.
The problem was was after it was connected I started routing the wire where I wanted it to come out of the back of the mirror bracket, and apparently I tugged on it too hard because the molex piece split in 2.
And I really didn’t tug on it because I know how loosely the mirror tap is connected.
Hoping the the part I ordered is the right one, and that I can get the wires connected to it easily. The good news is I can’t figure out what I’ve managed to disconnect in the process. I’m thinking it’s the HomeLink, which isn’t the end of the world if I can’t fix it.
You guys use any extended battery or capacitor for the radar or cameras? Was recommended over at the BMW forums for the cameras at least
Not needed for radar because it won't draw power when car is switched off.
For cameras it is a good idea. You can use one of the following ones to reduce strain on battery. Critical if you are running a Lithium battery or not driving car often.
The Celllink Neo works with both Blackvue and Thinkware. You need to wire it to a powered fuse or circuit in the car. So this way the battery only charges when the car is running. Then it will continue to power the dashcam when parked until the battery runs out of power. It is Lithium Iron Phosphate battery which is the safest for a car. Unlikely to catch fire or blow-up relative to other Lithium batteries. Also comes with an App so you know how much power is left.
Not needed for radar because it won't draw power when car is switched off.
For cameras it is a good idea. You can use one of the following ones to reduce strain on battery. Critical if you are running a Lithium battery or not driving car often.
The Celllink Neo works with both Blackvue and Thinkware. You need to wire it to a powered fuse or circuit in the car. So this way the battery only charges when the car is running. Then it will continue to power the dashcam when parked until the battery runs out of power. It is Lithium Iron Phosphate battery which is the safest for a car. Unlikely to catch fire or blow-up relative to other Lithium batteries. Also comes with an App so you know how much power is left.
Just a heads up, there are two separate wiring harnesses in there. One powers the mirror and windshield rain sensor and the other powers the dome lights, garage opener, and passenger side air bag sensor.
Learned this after they had to replace my headliner and damaged one while doing it.
How do you remove the overhead lighting panel? Are there latches that I need to depress? So far I'm trying to crank it open but worry any harder the plastic will snap. Thanks.
Yes two "latches"....in about an inch from each end rear of panel....press up past edge of frame with flat tool at each location...you can see them in post #1
Yes two "latches"....in about an inch from each end rear of panel....press up past edge of frame with flat tool at each location...you can see them in post #1
Use a credit card to bend the plastic clips. They are hearty. Will not break. Simultaneously placed the credit card an inch from either side and gently pull with your finger nail the underside of the panel. You can do one side at a time.It will come out quite easily.
Thank you for the post; very helpful. 2016 GT3, yellow/blue connector on right, BLUE (+) to RED & BROWN (-) to BLACK, used the smallest of the pins to tap (see link below, impressed with the quality for the price, you get 3 independent wires with S/M/L pins) and a "cheap" mount that had good reviews (link also below). I have a blendmount in another car and yes there is a difference, but IMO not enough to warrant the ($150+ price difference).
04-24-2019, 10:30 PM
