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Tracking the Turbo

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Old 03-23-2018, 05:00 PM
  #226  
nolimits
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Default Tires

Will be curious how the larger C2s do vs stickier OEM sized Trofeos Rs. Any input appreciated when time comes.
Old 03-26-2018, 02:21 PM
  #227  
M3S3R
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Originally Posted by Randyc151
I'm about to find out how well this works. I have them in my garage now, waiting for mounting and installation.
I you have any issues at all running this tire size? Thinking about going to this same set up on stock centerlock wheels.
Old 03-27-2018, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by M3S3R
I you have any issues at all running this tire size? Thinking about going to this same set up on stock centerlock wheels.
Still have meat on the current set of Cup2 in OEM size, so have not made the switch yet. Stay tuned!
Old 03-27-2018, 10:32 AM
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Nordic Flyer
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Originally Posted by M3S3R
I you have any issues at all running this tire size? Thinking about going to this same set up on stock centerlock wheels.
I have had slight rubbing inside front when mounted on my Forgeline 20x9,0 (+52) rims.
No idea how it will work with stock wheels.
Old 03-27-2018, 11:07 AM
  #230  
Randyc151
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Originally Posted by Nordic Flyer
I have had slight rubbing inside front when mounted on my Forgeline 20x9,0 (+52) rims.
No idea how it will work with stock wheels.
What's the rest of your set up? Have you lowered your car, and what springs, if so.
Old 03-28-2018, 06:37 AM
  #231  
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Originally Posted by Randyc151
What's the rest of your set up? Have you lowered your car, and what springs, if so.
20x12 (+47) rear, this sticks a little too much out (5-8mm) from wheel arc for my liking.
The rubbing is inside wheel well at full turn only.
No lowering, I need stock height to access my house.
Old 05-29-2018, 12:08 AM
  #232  
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To the top, season is here !
Old 05-29-2018, 12:17 AM
  #233  
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Spent the weekend at VIR, crushed everybody. The TTS is the predator on track. To beat it, you'd better have a full-on race car.
Old 05-29-2018, 10:30 PM
  #234  
erko1905
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Originally Posted by nolimits
991 TTS, goal is to maintain street ride but improve track ride without harshness. Firmer cornering, less brake dive and acceleration squat, better transient response, flexibility to tune and change configuration. Starting camber will be around 2.4 & 2.8. Widen front end and improve stick all around with the R's too. Also if you lower your car you will need to keep tie rod geometry correct. Equal or improved braking, but with less ceramic rotor wear. Should show rear views to new RS’s with ease given same driver skill set. Will provide impressions and results once we get some dry weather up here, and any sorting completed. Results will vary depending on configuration and how much deflection you leave. Check with your local shop for more on various approaches. I spoke with a lot of mod shops and race teams to come up with this. Kudos to them coming after results.


-Rennline mesh grille guards
-Pagid RSC1 pads
-AWE mirror wind deflectors
-Tarett : front camber plates, front lower control arms, axel spacer kit, shims, lower control arm spacers, rear long & medium upper control arms, boot ends.
-DSC V2 controller
-Sharkworks catback exhaust
-OEM wheels, powder coated, Trofeo Rs
So I have the front lower control arms, including thrust arm bushing that allows adjusting the caster, I'm getting the front camber plates, but what is the axle spacer kit? Is this the part you're referring to:

http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...-10-detail.htm

It was the only front axle spacer I found on Tarett's website, and it seems to be for 996/997TT only?

Is an axle spacer definitely needed given the LCA+camber plate, even when not going crazy high to -3.5,-4 type numbers? I think all I need to run is 2.6-2.7 upfront without popping axles off the diff.
Old 05-30-2018, 02:48 PM
  #235  
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Default Spacers etc

Yes spacers are for reason you state. Check with Tarett re specifics on what you want to accomplish. Great folks, or suggest your mod shop. With R compounds you want lots of camber. Lesser varients don't need as much suspension etc.
Old 05-30-2018, 06:43 PM
  #236  
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What is the consensus on alignment settings with stock suspension? I see that the factory sets camber at -1.0 F and -2.0 R. Is the thought to run max neg camber? Or is something like -1.8 F -1.7 R better? Also any other changes to the factory alignment settings helpful?

I may try the DSC box but otherwise I will keep the suspension stock. I got N1 Cup2's for my GT3 and since the N0's that were being replaced were in good shape, I slapped them on the Turbo S. Much better than the stock N0 PZeros of course.
Old 05-30-2018, 10:37 PM
  #237  
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Originally Posted by longboarder
What is the consensus on alignment settings with stock suspension? I see that the factory sets camber at -1.0 F and -2.0 R. Is the thought to run max neg camber? Or is something like -1.8 F -1.7 R better? Also any other changes to the factory alignment settings helpful?

I may try the DSC box but otherwise I will keep the suspension stock. I got N1 Cup2's for my GT3 and since the N0's that were being replaced were in good shape, I slapped them on the Turbo S. Much better than the stock N0 PZeros of course.
I have only lowering springs, and about the max front camber I can get is -1.8 front, -2.0 rear, and I am very happy with that setup on Cup2 tires.
Old 05-31-2018, 12:54 AM
  #238  
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Ok good to know. My GT3 runs similar camber settings as your Turbo with no adverse tire wear on the outside edges. Other cars with more front weight bias and lack of rear wheel steering need a bit more neg camber up front to rotate and help tire wear.
Old 05-31-2018, 04:26 AM
  #239  
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Originally Posted by longboarder
Ok good to know. My GT3 runs similar camber settings as your Turbo with no adverse tire wear on the outside edges. Other cars with more front weight bias and lack of rear wheel steering need a bit more neg camber up front to rotate and help tire wear.
A few comments:

1- Yes camber is about tire wear, but primarily for cornering its for optimizing contact patch and tire temperatures, AWD or 2WD.
2- Affective camber is also significantly impacted by the type of suspension bushings one runs, OEM rubber deflects, monoball or spherical don't and thus hold camber better, needing less of it. With OEM bushings you are setting camber as a mid point or average of the range of deflection the suspension experiences. A less deflective suspension holds truer to the actual static camber setting #.
3- Rotation is mostly about F & R toe settings, and how fore/aft weight shift of the car is managed during a turn, using the brakes and throttle to facilitate, and actually doing most of the turning.
4- All wheel steering helps rotation at speeds under 60mph or so when the rears turn the opposite direction of the fronts. Above those speeds the rears turn the same direction as the fronts, helps hold a line but not a rotation enhancer.

With C2s and OEM camber ranges you'll be fine for most driving. For track addicts more camber is useful. Others will chime in I'm sure, just my two bits, hope it helps.
Old 05-31-2018, 05:12 AM
  #240  
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Originally Posted by Randyc151
I have only lowering springs, and about the max front camber I can get is -1.8 front, -2.0 rear, and I am very happy with that setup on Cup2 tires.
What about toe in?
At moment I have this alligement, can't get anymore camber front out of stock 991.2TT suspension -


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