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CL Wheel Question

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Old 10-27-2014, 11:14 PM
  #31  
speed21
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That'd be where the torque wrench and being versed in changing one comes into play for sure. I've seen a live demo and it doesn't appear too tough for me personally. There is a relatively strict procedure involved that's all. I think the removal and refit of a CL all comes down to familiarity, and herein lays the problem for many who take one look at the detailed instruction sheet and then **** themselves when the actual practical exercise really isn't all that hard...if you've got the tools on hand that is.
There is nothing quite like having previous practice and of course to get that confidence you will need to take one off yourself once or twice under supervision before getting stuck somewhere on the side of the road imo. In a way it's a bit like changing your very first flat with a 5 stud. There is always a learning curve of sorts involving a bit of trial and error. Much less than a CL for sure but nothing that can't be learned. Where there is a will there is a way I say lol.
Old 10-28-2014, 06:29 AM
  #32  
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If the car carried a spare wheel the argument for studs over CLs would be significantly greater. But it doesn't so there are only limited scenarios where having studs would be advantageous.
Old 10-28-2014, 07:00 AM
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...delete.
Old 10-28-2014, 07:04 AM
  #34  
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Yep no jack = same pain regardless wheel type. It's only in the most fortunate of situations where the pressure is realeasing at a rate where you can actually deal with the leak on the side of the road with the wheel on the car before the critical air mass is lost under the weight of the car, and the tire bead breaks. No portable compressor is going to help there until you can get the wheel off the car. And, In such a lucky situation it is way easier to just drive to a dealer or tire shop and let them fix it....top air up along the way there.
Old 10-28-2014, 02:27 PM
  #35  
AndrewP
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Speed makes excellent points about the bead and familiarity.

My first choice is to call for a flatbed if near a dealer who is open. If bead is not broken next the stock flat fix, next a plug kit. Obviously one must have a scissor jack (mine is 3 ton and fits easily in frunk). I also have the correct torque wrench (in a case about 36 inches long that fits diagonally in the frunk), a -36 breaker bar, the correct aluminum grease from dealer ($40) and a wheel dismount/mount alignment tool to avoid contact with the PCCB's. If a sidewall puncture directly to dealer. Cost of jack, wrench, breaker bar and wheel guide around $700.
PM me for details on tools.

I understand the obvious aversion to the correct process for mounting CL's. To each his/her own. I like the Turbo S wheels and the CL system. A very cool Porsche device. And be certain to inform your tire shop to point the bottom of the center cap Porsche crest directly the value stem, as the factory does.
Old 11-05-2014, 10:27 PM
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I don't see how changing a CL is any more difficult or time consuming than cleaning the threads and applying anti-seize to five lug bolts per wheel and torquing to spec in two stages. That's how I do it, anyway.

- Patrick
Old 11-08-2014, 11:18 AM
  #37  
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Point of clarification needed....I have been told that the Porsche warranty covers the cost to trailer the car to the nearest Porsche dealership to repaire a flat. However, cost of the tire is not covered (unless you have tire insurance), and personal travel cost to get to the dealership is paid by the car owner.

Is this consistent with your understanding.....has anyone on this thread experienced such a situation?
Old 11-16-2014, 05:01 PM
  #38  
AndrewP
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Default Mounted my winter CL TTS wheels today

I had to get a 6' steel pipe extension for my 40" breaker bar to loosen the hubs. The added leverage of the 6' bar was significant so I only had to apply moderate force to break the factory torque, which was all of 443 ft lbs. I used the wheel guide to dismount and mount the wheels, but it is not essential with a bit of practice. The toughest part of the job was cleaning the aluminum grease from my hands.

I have changed many five lug wheels and believe that the CL's are easier once one has the right tools. The best part of the process was getting a much closer look at Porsche engineering.
Old 11-16-2014, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by sscofield
Point of clarification needed....I have been told that the Porsche warranty covers the cost to trailer the car to the nearest Porsche dealership to repaire a flat. However, cost of the tire is not covered (unless you have tire insurance), and personal travel cost to get to the dealership is paid by the car owner.

Is this consistent with your understanding.....has anyone on this thread experienced such a situation?
I've been told the same thing by a UK dealer. I have NOT actually experienced this as yet tho.!



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