Dragy 1/4 mile test today with the 2019 TTS
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#63
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I'm mostly road course track days guy, dozens over the years. I've only on a 1/4 mile drag strip once about five years ago, sp a novice.
I planning on going to a test and tune event tonight.
Vehicle:
2014 Turbo S
No tune.
Cat bypass pipes, no other mods.
Fairly worn P-zero tires.
I know much of it will be a 'try it and see what happens' learning curve, but I don't know how many runs I'll get. Any suggestions on starting points appreciated.
In particular, advice on:
Mode: Sport or Sport Plus
PSM (traction control): On or Off
Launch Control: Yes or No (and launch technique if No)
Burnout: Wet or Dry or None
Tire Pressure: Target Hot and Cold
Other stuff to think about?
Track altitude is 5,814 and current density altitude is 9,232, though It should cool off a bit by the time I'm there.
Any thoughts on what my goal time slip results should be?
What 'correction factor' should I use to compare to sea level times and mph?
I planning on going to a test and tune event tonight.
Vehicle:
2014 Turbo S
No tune.
Cat bypass pipes, no other mods.
Fairly worn P-zero tires.
I know much of it will be a 'try it and see what happens' learning curve, but I don't know how many runs I'll get. Any suggestions on starting points appreciated.
In particular, advice on:
Mode: Sport or Sport Plus
PSM (traction control): On or Off
Launch Control: Yes or No (and launch technique if No)
Burnout: Wet or Dry or None
Tire Pressure: Target Hot and Cold
Other stuff to think about?
Track altitude is 5,814 and current density altitude is 9,232, though It should cool off a bit by the time I'm there.
Any thoughts on what my goal time slip results should be?
What 'correction factor' should I use to compare to sea level times and mph?
#64
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I'm mostly road course track days guy, dozens over the years. I've only on a 1/4 mile drag strip once about five years ago, sp a novice.
I planning on going to a test and tune event tonight.
Vehicle:
2014 Turbo S
No tune.
Cat bypass pipes, no other mods.
Fairly worn P-zero tires.
I know much of it will be a 'try it and see what happens' learning curve, but I don't know how many runs I'll get. Any suggestions on starting points appreciated.
In particular, advice on:
Mode: Sport or Sport Plus
PSM (traction control): On or Off
Launch Control: Yes or No (and launch technique if No)
Burnout: Wet or Dry or None
Tire Pressure: Target Hot and Cold
Other stuff to think about?
Track altitude is 5,814 and current density altitude is 9,232, though It should cool off a bit by the time I'm there.
Any thoughts on what my goal time slip results should be?
What 'correction factor' should I use to compare to sea level times and mph?
I planning on going to a test and tune event tonight.
Vehicle:
2014 Turbo S
No tune.
Cat bypass pipes, no other mods.
Fairly worn P-zero tires.
I know much of it will be a 'try it and see what happens' learning curve, but I don't know how many runs I'll get. Any suggestions on starting points appreciated.
In particular, advice on:
Mode: Sport or Sport Plus
PSM (traction control): On or Off
Launch Control: Yes or No (and launch technique if No)
Burnout: Wet or Dry or None
Tire Pressure: Target Hot and Cold
Other stuff to think about?
Track altitude is 5,814 and current density altitude is 9,232, though It should cool off a bit by the time I'm there.
Any thoughts on what my goal time slip results should be?
What 'correction factor' should I use to compare to sea level times and mph?
-Sport Plus for LC
-TC off IMO, but get your tires hot as possible before going to the line. Also, Do a practice launch and immediately hit the brakes to clean the tires off. Meaning, roll around the water box. Back up to just before the water (DRY). Sport Plus, foot on brake, gas to floor, and LAUNCH, but then immediately stop. THEN roll up to the beams to pre stage. This way tires are free from debris at you launch for the ET.
-PASM OFF so you'll get more "SQUAT"... IF / WHEN you get a TPC DSC, spring for the "Launch Control" option too. It allows up to 2000 milliseconds of SQUAT before stiffening up the suspension after Launch.
-Tiires at NO MORE than about 30-35 PSI hot in the rears.
-At those altitudes, I wouldn't look for much over a 10.9 - 11.2 for your stock car. Anything in the 10's would be great for a .1 in stock form at that DA. I imagine your traps will be in the 122-124 MPH range also. If you get 124-125 at that DA, you have a strong Stock car.
Track etiquette:
When you roll forward after your tire cleaning practice launch, WAIT for your competitor to be done with their burnout or whatever and start rolling forward too.
Pre-stage the TOP bulbs ONLY..Then wait on your competitor to light his / hers too. THEN, and only then do you Stage into the Bottom Bulbs.
DOUBLE BULBING someone is bad etiquette. It starts the 7 second timer and if you other person isn't ready and doesn't "Get in" in time (top and bottom bulbs), they get a red light and n time, even if they run.
OH!! GO ON THE LAST YELLOW!!!!
If you wait on the green you'll be "Sleeping" on the tree.
A "Sportsmans" tree if probably what you'll get vs. a "PRO TREE"
SPORTSMAN tree goes - Yellow , Yellow , Yellow, Green!!
Pro Tree goes - ALL Yellows (3 at same time) and then GREEN!!
On both trees, you'd still leave as soon as you see the LAST YELLOW BULB LIGHT!!!!!
That brings up "Shallow" vs. "Deep" Staging.
-Shallow means you roll into the last beam to turn on the second top staging bulb. Stop there. That gives you approximatley the ONE FOOT ROLL OUT prior to the timer starting.
-Deep Staging means you light the bottom bulb and roll SO FAR forward you actually turn OFF the top staging bulb. This is legal and gets you closer to the finish line by about a FOOT, BUT it also means you have WAY LESS margin of error on the RED LIGHT. You'd have to leave closer to the green light coming on or you'd face a RED LIGHT for that run.
Last edited by Big Swole; 06-24-2020 at 06:22 PM.
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#65
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I added some more stuff to my post above Paul. Check it out also.
#66
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Thanks @Big Swole , I was hoping you'd chime in!
So as a starting point, for the actual launch:
Retract Aero or leave it deployed?
I ordered a DSC Sport V3, won't get here for another couple of weeks...
So as a starting point, for the actual launch:
- Sport Plus
- PASM Soft (off)
- PSM Off
- PDK Auto
- Foot-on-brake-hard, foot-on-gas-hard,
- launch (release brake..)
Retract Aero or leave it deployed?
I ordered a DSC Sport V3, won't get here for another couple of weeks...
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Big Swole (06-24-2020)
#67
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This is an example of me on a PRO TREE... .All 3 yellows go at the same time.
(Me on the brakes to try to keep from breaking out of the 11 sec. Index class...Hence only the 119-120 trap speed vs. my 127-128 norm that night. Still kicked that ZR1's A$$)
(Me on the brakes to try to keep from breaking out of the 11 sec. Index class...Hence only the 119-120 trap speed vs. my 127-128 norm that night. Still kicked that ZR1's A$$)
#68
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Thanks @Big Swole , I was hoping you'd chime in!
So as a starting point, for the actual launch:
Retract Aero or leave it deployed?
I ordered a DSC Sport V3, won't get here for another couple of weeks...
So as a starting point, for the actual launch:
- Sport Plus
- PASM Soft (off)
- PSM Off
- PDK Auto
- Foot-on-brake-hard, foot-on-gas-hard,
- launch (release brake..)
Retract Aero or leave it deployed?
I ordered a DSC Sport V3, won't get here for another couple of weeks...
KEEP IN MIND... I learned this the hard way.
If you Start LC sequence, and for some reason you let off the throttle, you'll have to start the WHOLE thing over to get it to respond.
This is why you wait on your competitor to roll in on the prestige and Stage bulbs FIRST, THEN start the LC sequence. Watch my vid above. It'll give you an idea of the "Timing" of things and how it will go.
On a Sportsman Tree ( the yellow, yellow , yellow, then green lighting), you'll feel like you're holding the REV's up there a long time before launching, but don't worry. The car will let you do it and it's quicker than you think. Just wait on that LAST Yellow bulb to start to glow and then RELEASE the brake and keep it Floored!!!
PDK auto is easiest. I've never been able to shift manually and get a better ET than the computer gets.
#69
Drifting
Thread Starter
Thanks @Big Swole , I was hoping you'd chime in!
So as a starting point, for the actual launch:
Retract Aero or leave it deployed?
I ordered a DSC Sport V3, won't get here for another couple of weeks...
So as a starting point, for the actual launch:
- Sport Plus
- PASM Soft (off)
- PSM Off
- PDK Auto
- Foot-on-brake-hard, foot-on-gas-hard,
- launch (release brake..)
Retract Aero or leave it deployed?
I ordered a DSC Sport V3, won't get here for another couple of weeks...
I would LC on the practice launch to build heat in the rears. As Big stated, stay out of the water. Go around.
Aero off.
Man, My DA is generally horrible at 3800-4200 feet. I could not breathe at your elevation . You will have a GREAT time, but the ET's will suffer hard. "For me" and a .1 , I would be ecstatic with a low 11
Enjoy the ride !
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Big Swole (06-24-2020)
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I forgot about the 991.1 TTS's Areo up front.
I assume having it deployed would help aerodynamics at speed but cause more "drag".
In a 1/4 pass, I doubt highly if it'll ever register in the ET (all things being equal) per pass.
I just let my wing go up at the normal speed vs. keeping it up. Not sure it really helps much anyway.
I assume having it deployed would help aerodynamics at speed but cause more "drag".
In a 1/4 pass, I doubt highly if it'll ever register in the ET (all things being equal) per pass.
I just let my wing go up at the normal speed vs. keeping it up. Not sure it really helps much anyway.
#71
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First run.... left lane of course
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Big Swole (06-24-2020)
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60 Foot looks great!! 1.5X is about where I am with traction is good.
1/8 mile ET is about right also. 1/4 is too.
Now, that DA is Killing your MPH, but hey, mph doesn't win races. Reaction time and a quick car does. You have that.
Down here at 800-1000 ft. Your car would be in the High 10's and 123-124 mph.
I under estimate how bad your MPH would suffer at that altitude.
OH, and for a beginner (isn), that .18 Reaction time is AWESOME!! Congrats!!
You paid attention well, Daniel-Son!! lol
1/8 mile ET is about right also. 1/4 is too.
Now, that DA is Killing your MPH, but hey, mph doesn't win races. Reaction time and a quick car does. You have that.
Down here at 800-1000 ft. Your car would be in the High 10's and 123-124 mph.
I under estimate how bad your MPH would suffer at that altitude.
OH, and for a beginner (isn), that .18 Reaction time is AWESOME!! Congrats!!
You paid attention well, Daniel-Son!! lol
Last edited by Big Swole; 06-24-2020 at 09:27 PM.
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pfbz (06-24-2020)
#73
Drifting
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#74
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Thanks for the great tips, guys!
My best run was actually my first run shown above... Just after i rolled through tech inspection, hadn't even unloaded the car or lowered the pressure yet...
Weighed in at 3,875 on that first run, full of crap, almost 7/8's fuel... She ain't skinny, that's for sure! (and neither is the driver...)
My best run was actually my first run shown above... Just after i rolled through tech inspection, hadn't even unloaded the car or lowered the pressure yet...
Weighed in at 3,875 on that first run, full of crap, almost 7/8's fuel... She ain't skinny, that's for sure! (and neither is the driver...)
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Big Swole (06-24-2020)
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That's about right.
My car weighed 3825 with me in it and not much else except my helmet.
3540 without me in it.
My car weighed 3825 with me in it and not much else except my helmet.
3540 without me in it.