19” wheels and PCCB
#16
Not sure why you think the barrels are weaker nor why you would expect them to deflect more than the tire itself. First I’m hearing of that. Typically a smaller rim is actually stronger simply from a moment of inertia perspective. Reason for going to it is weight and tire choices.
#18
Burning Brakes
For hoosiers, I tried 235, 265, 295. 295 works best but require such a wide wheel (10” minimum) and such offset (at least 15mm from the stock offset) that tire sticks out of the front fender too much. Between 265 and 235 (they are almost identical in true width) the 235 works better.
At the back I tried 315 and 345. 345 works the best, 315 get chewed up so quickly that the tire bills looks more like a weekly payment plan.
At the back I tried 315 and 345. 345 works the best, 315 get chewed up so quickly that the tire bills looks more like a weekly payment plan.
#20
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HRE R101 Lightweights will clear 19" PCCB's. These are the most lightweight aluminum wheels in the world offered for the 991 chassis.
Below is a customer of mine who used 20" sizing with Toyo's (replacing with Hoosier's this week) that ran sub 10's.
Below is a customer of mine who used 20" sizing with Toyo's (replacing with Hoosier's this week) that ran sub 10's.
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Follow us on YouTube: www.youtube.com/user/WheelsBoutique
Largest Dealer In The World for HRE Wheels, ANRKY Wheels, Vorsteiner Wheels & Aero, Akrapovic Exhaust, & iPE Exhaust
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Brembo / Rotiform / KW / H&R / Novitec / Brabus / Mansory and tons more...
#21
Racer
For hoosiers, I tried 235, 265, 295. 295 works best but require such a wide wheel (10” minimum) and such offset (at least 15mm from the stock offset) that tire sticks out of the front fender too much. Between 265 and 235 (they are almost identical in true width) the 235 works better.
At the back I tried 315 and 345. 345 works the best, 315 get chewed up so quickly that the tire bills looks more like a weekly payment plan.
At the back I tried 315 and 345. 345 works the best, 315 get chewed up so quickly that the tire bills looks more like a weekly payment plan.
I just checked and it seems like the 295's are 26.1" in diameter and the 265's are 26.2" in diameter. Both 325 and 345's are 26.8". I guess the 0.1" in difference did not yield any issues with the PCM. I'm going to be running cup fenders so maybe this is an option. Good to know!
What kind of offsets did you run? are you running coil overs or the stock shocks with springs? I noticed these made a difference on my setup whereby the stock wheels will rub the front coil overs on the front and needed a small spacer.
#22
Burning Brakes
A/S
I just checked and it seems like the 295's are 26.1" in diameter and the 265's are 26.2" in diameter. Both 325 and 345's are 26.8". I guess the 0.1" in difference did not yield any issues with the PCM. I'm going to be running cup fenders so maybe this is an option. Good to know!
What kind of offsets did you run? are you running coil overs or the stock shocks with springs? I noticed these made a difference on my setup whereby the stock wheels will rub the front coil overs on the front and needed a small spacer.
I just checked and it seems like the 295's are 26.1" in diameter and the 265's are 26.2" in diameter. Both 325 and 345's are 26.8". I guess the 0.1" in difference did not yield any issues with the PCM. I'm going to be running cup fenders so maybe this is an option. Good to know!
What kind of offsets did you run? are you running coil overs or the stock shocks with springs? I noticed these made a difference on my setup whereby the stock wheels will rub the front coil overs on the front and needed a small spacer.
I ran these setups on the stock springs, later to H&R, currently on KW springs with corner adjustment and stock shocks. I added a DSC Sport to this setup, it does magical things.
#24
Originally Posted by A/S
If you're moving the Cup front fenders, you'll be able to run a 19x10 ET35 and the 295 Hoosier. The 19x9.5 ET45 is fine for 235 and 265 Hoosiers, but the 235 works better, nicer steering feedback, more precise steering inputs. At the back stick to 19x12 ET51 and 345 Hoosiers. All the Hoosier combinations I tried (235, 265, 295 front and 315, 345 rear) did not cause any errors or issues with the ABS, PSM, TC, ESC, etc. The car drives just fine.
I ran these setups on the stock springs, later to H&R, currently on KW springs with corner adjustment and stock shocks. I added a DSC Sport to this setup, it does magical things.
I ran these setups on the stock springs, later to H&R, currently on KW springs with corner adjustment and stock shocks. I added a DSC Sport to this setup, it does magical things.
#25
Burning Brakes
KW are a little stiffer than the 991.1 GT3 RS front springs, a little softer than the RS rear springs. They also allow individual corner weight adjustments, something not available in any Porsche 991 except the GT cars. The corner weights in all the 991TT/TTS are compromised from the factory, as these cars were not intended for the track-day users. If you want a more composed and easier car to drive at the limits on a track day, you need the car corner balanced to your fuel load and driver's weight, this accounts for a significant lap time difference.
But I'm not happy with the KW because the springs are bulkier than the stock or H&R, limiting the tire sizes that can be used in the front. Also, despite of the stiffer spring rates, there are still too soft for a 991 TTS. I have a custom made spring package designed after the KW, with the calculated ideal spring rates for a 991 Turbo on Hoosiers or slicks, height adjustable, while re-using the stock shocks + DSC (DSC is needed when changing spring rates), but I haven't installed this system as I've been shopping to replace the 991.1 TTS with a 991.2 TTS (or something from a different brand).
The bushings are too soft in the 991TT, so they need to be replaced, the dynamic toe/camber changes are too big when using sticky tires.
Avoid H&R unless you just street drive the 991TT, in which case you won't get anything by switching from Eibach to H&R.
#26
Thanks! I was also considering a set of custom Intrax springs, they are really really good for so many platforms, my 996tt included. But have to find a way to figure out some specs for 991 springs
I have 991.2tts with the new FAL system and serms KWs arent compatible with the new system, maybe they will release an update soon.
I will do some Tarret upgrades, frint LCAs, some uniballs, rear drop toe links, etc to fix a bit the dynamic camber, toe etc.
Dont want to go all out and still want to keep PDCC
I have 991.2tts with the new FAL system and serms KWs arent compatible with the new system, maybe they will release an update soon.
I will do some Tarret upgrades, frint LCAs, some uniballs, rear drop toe links, etc to fix a bit the dynamic camber, toe etc.
Dont want to go all out and still want to keep PDCC
#27
Racer
Thanks! I was also considering a set of custom Intrax springs, they are really really good for so many platforms, my 996tt included. But have to find a way to figure out some specs for 991 springs
I have 991.2tts with the new FAL system and serms KWs arent compatible with the new system, maybe they will release an update soon.
I will do some Tarret upgrades, frint LCAs, some uniballs, rear drop toe links, etc to fix a bit the dynamic camber, toe etc.
Dont want to go all out and still want to keep PDCC
I have 991.2tts with the new FAL system and serms KWs arent compatible with the new system, maybe they will release an update soon.
I will do some Tarret upgrades, frint LCAs, some uniballs, rear drop toe links, etc to fix a bit the dynamic camber, toe etc.
Dont want to go all out and still want to keep PDCC
if you are looking for some Tarret parts let me know. I have several Tarret parts that I'm parting with with less than 500 miles. pretty much brand new. Just heading in a different direction. Great parts thought. this is what i have
- Front Pro Series Control Arms
- Rear Upper Control Arm Link - Long
- Rear Upper Control Arm Link - Medium
- Front Tie Rod
PM me if you are interested