Orthojoe's track build journal
04-09-2015, 07:31 PM
#736
Three Wheelin'
From my development manager at HAWK- don't change drilled rotors unless they are below minimum thickness OR the cracks are so bad you actually feel them while braking. Everything else is a waste of a rotor. So I asked what if the cracks meet between holes- "Don't worry, use up the rotor. If you feel it then change." FYI, YMMV, but HAWK is in the racing and brake business and I assume that they know what they are doing. Of course this is for track day users, not competitors as I know a lot of Cup racers change rotors as a matter of schedule rather than actual wear.
04-09-2015, 07:43 PM
#737
From my development manager at HAWK- don't change drilled rotors unless they are below minimum thickness OR the cracks are so bad you actually feel them while braking. Everything else is a waste of a rotor. So I asked what if the cracks meet between holes- "Don't worry, use up the rotor. If you feel it then change." FYI, YMMV, but HAWK is in the racing and brake business and I assume that they know what they are doing. Of course this is for track day users, not competitors as I know a lot of Cup racers change rotors as a matter of schedule rather than actual wear.
First Porsche so I am learning
04-09-2015, 08:30 PM
#738
Rennlist Member
04-10-2015, 03:39 AM
#739
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
From my development manager at HAWK- don't change drilled rotors unless they are below minimum thickness OR the cracks are so bad you actually feel them while braking. Everything else is a waste of a rotor. So I asked what if the cracks meet between holes- "Don't worry, use up the rotor. If you feel it then change." FYI, YMMV, but HAWK is in the racing and brake business and I assume that they know what they are doing. Of course this is for track day users, not competitors as I know a lot of Cup racers change rotors as a matter of schedule rather than actual wear.
04-10-2015, 09:24 PM
#741
Three Wheelin'
04-11-2015, 12:54 AM
#742
Rennlist Member
I replace rotors when it cracks all the way through.
You don't always feel that. And you can only see that by taking the wheel off.
If they are cracked hole to hole and hole to edge (but not all the way through where you see the crack go all the way t the inside of the rotor) i replacement them still for a weekend because i dont want the hassle of swapping rotors.
The trick is cooling them down for a lap or longer. My cool down lap i try to not touch the brake and if the track is located to allow it, i drive straight off the track to refuel, getting a little extra cool down time.
Red flags are rotor killers
You don't always feel that. And you can only see that by taking the wheel off.
If they are cracked hole to hole and hole to edge (but not all the way through where you see the crack go all the way t the inside of the rotor) i replacement them still for a weekend because i dont want the hassle of swapping rotors.
The trick is cooling them down for a lap or longer. My cool down lap i try to not touch the brake and if the track is located to allow it, i drive straight off the track to refuel, getting a little extra cool down time.
Red flags are rotor killers
04-11-2015, 02:37 AM
#743
Rennlist Member
I replace rotors when it cracks all the way through.
You don't always feel that. And you can only see that by taking the wheel off.
If they are cracked hole to hole and hole to edge (but not all the way through where you see the crack go all the way t the inside of the rotor) i replacement them still for a weekend because i dont want the hassle of swapping rotors.
The trick is cooling them down for a lap or longer. My cool down lap i try to not touch the brake and if the track is located to allow it, i drive straight off the track to refuel, getting a little extra cool down time.
Red flags are rotor killers
You don't always feel that. And you can only see that by taking the wheel off.
If they are cracked hole to hole and hole to edge (but not all the way through where you see the crack go all the way t the inside of the rotor) i replacement them still for a weekend because i dont want the hassle of swapping rotors.
The trick is cooling them down for a lap or longer. My cool down lap i try to not touch the brake and if the track is located to allow it, i drive straight off the track to refuel, getting a little extra cool down time.
Red flags are rotor killers
04-11-2015, 12:12 PM
#744
Three Wheelin'
I replace rotors when it cracks all the way through.
You don't always feel that. And you can only see that by taking the wheel off.
If they are cracked hole to hole and hole to edge (but not all the way through where you see the crack go all the way t the inside of the rotor) i replacement them still for a weekend because i dont want the hassle of swapping rotors.
The trick is cooling them down for a lap or longer. My cool down lap i try to not touch the brake and if the track is located to allow it, i drive straight off the track to refuel, getting a little extra cool down time.
Red flags are rotor killers
You don't always feel that. And you can only see that by taking the wheel off.
If they are cracked hole to hole and hole to edge (but not all the way through where you see the crack go all the way t the inside of the rotor) i replacement them still for a weekend because i dont want the hassle of swapping rotors.
The trick is cooling them down for a lap or longer. My cool down lap i try to not touch the brake and if the track is located to allow it, i drive straight off the track to refuel, getting a little extra cool down time.
Red flags are rotor killers
04-12-2015, 01:04 AM
#746
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: West Vancouver and San Francisco
Posts: 4,178
Received 1,139 Likes
on
560 Posts
Uneven cooldown when parked causes long cracks across the entire rotor, which is a write-off - it's usually either a red flag or a passenger throwing up in the car ;-). Another side effect of that is that heat from rotors goes into calipers and causes boiled fluid, blistered lines, etc. Better to do cool-down lap or at least a half.
04-12-2015, 01:29 AM
#747
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
I'm happy to finally say that the clubsport setup on my 991 GT3 is FINALLY DONE. It's taken some time because of inevitable issues with being one of the first few to use a new product. However, I'm happy to say that both Cantrell and GMG really stood behind their products and helped as much as they possibly could to make sure that the project was completed and completed perfectly. I'm very happy with the final result!
The setup:
1) Cantrell motorsports rear 1/2 cage. Points to note:
- Bolt-on
- plastic trim and carpet need to be trimmed
-mounting points are in the exact same location as OEM mounting points
2) GMG anti-sub strap mounting plate. Points to note:
-drilling into the floor is required to mount the plate
-the plate is mounted using rivnuts
3) Schroth GT3 specific profi-II6 harnesses. The GT3 specific belts have eyelets that match to the OEM lap belt mounting points perfectly.
4) Modified passenger LWB seat to accept anti sub strap. Opened up seat cushion and hole cut in shell to match the driver seat.
The cage:
weight of the cage WITHOUT mounting plates (forgot to weight those, but I'm guessing another 5 pounds): 46.5lb
The seats and rear shelving removed:
Seats removed and floor shown:
Everything disassembled and out:
Precut holes in carpet from the factory to show factory mounting point
Tool used to trip plastic
Hole trimmed:
Mounting plate installed:
Trim installed:
Cage going in:
Cage installed:
Next up is the installation of the GMG antisub plate:
Opened up the carpeting to expose the hardware/electronics under the seats:
Holes drilled:
Rivnut tool:
Rivnuts installed:
Plate installed:
Antisubstraps bolted down:
Pic showing the straps passing through the passenger side seat with the hole cut in the seat:
Pic showing how the GT3 specific lap belt eyelets fit perfectly into the OEM mounting points:
The setup:
1) Cantrell motorsports rear 1/2 cage. Points to note:
- Bolt-on
- plastic trim and carpet need to be trimmed
-mounting points are in the exact same location as OEM mounting points
2) GMG anti-sub strap mounting plate. Points to note:
-drilling into the floor is required to mount the plate
-the plate is mounted using rivnuts
3) Schroth GT3 specific profi-II6 harnesses. The GT3 specific belts have eyelets that match to the OEM lap belt mounting points perfectly.
4) Modified passenger LWB seat to accept anti sub strap. Opened up seat cushion and hole cut in shell to match the driver seat.
The cage:
weight of the cage WITHOUT mounting plates (forgot to weight those, but I'm guessing another 5 pounds): 46.5lb
The seats and rear shelving removed:
Seats removed and floor shown:
Everything disassembled and out:
Precut holes in carpet from the factory to show factory mounting point
Tool used to trip plastic
Hole trimmed:
Mounting plate installed:
Trim installed:
Cage going in:
Cage installed:
Next up is the installation of the GMG antisub plate:
Opened up the carpeting to expose the hardware/electronics under the seats:
Holes drilled:
Rivnut tool:
Rivnuts installed:
Plate installed:
Antisubstraps bolted down:
Pic showing the straps passing through the passenger side seat with the hole cut in the seat:
Pic showing how the GT3 specific lap belt eyelets fit perfectly into the OEM mounting points:
Last edited by orthojoe; 04-12-2015 at 01:50 AM.
