High Downforce mode on new GT3 like GT4?
08-04-2018, 12:46 PM
#16
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If you want max downforce-
Drop the entire car to lowest ride height
Raise wing to highest
Take front grilles out of fenders (RS)
Block off corner radiators as much as possible
Least amount of air under the car = max downforce
If too much understeer in slow corners, raise rear 5mm
Max downforce achievable, then dial in some slow speed rotation with sway bars.
Drop the entire car to lowest ride height
Raise wing to highest
Take front grilles out of fenders (RS)
Block off corner radiators as much as possible
Least amount of air under the car = max downforce
If too much understeer in slow corners, raise rear 5mm
Max downforce achievable, then dial in some slow speed rotation with sway bars.
08-05-2018, 10:14 AM
#18
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If you want max downforce-
Drop the entire car to lowest ride height
Raise wing to highest
Take front grilles out of fenders (RS)
Block off corner radiators as much as possible
Least amount of air under the car = max downforce
If too much understeer in slow corners, raise rear 5mm
Max downforce achievable, then dial in some slow speed rotation with sway bars.
Drop the entire car to lowest ride height
Raise wing to highest
Take front grilles out of fenders (RS)
Block off corner radiators as much as possible
Least amount of air under the car = max downforce
If too much understeer in slow corners, raise rear 5mm
Max downforce achievable, then dial in some slow speed rotation with sway bars.
Always max wing. Unless Daytona.
Also added diffuser to RS and Gurney.
i went to Daytona with new MPSC2 and Daytona camber settings but forgot to flatten the wing.
At full throttle and redline shifting the car just sat at 170 LOL. Oops, never broke 2:00.
Anyway, even with DSC box and a ton of rake and bar settings to dial out corner exit throttle understeer, it never really went away completely.
Then I went to 19” 295F and 345R.. and if you make 1 change to an RS do THAT.
With all the max downforce rear, I dropped the front 15mm and the rear 5mm but the big gain in speed also comes from the gigantic drop in center of gravity because the whole car goes down more then an inch I bet.
So fat front tires, lip on the asphalt under braking (I shaved off a few mm now) and the car is a dream to drive.
I can hang on the brakes all the way to the Apex where needed and stand on the throttle on the way out, all the while only keeping the rear under the car.
After that I changed the spring rates to the .2RS rates, I tested an entire day at sebring and I did have to go full soft on the sway bars front and rear.
I suspect the car is a little faster but need a cool day to verify.
But I’m 100% sure this is the setup that’s much faster on all normal tracks.
08-05-2018, 10:21 AM
#19
Rennlist Member
Hummm. Just adjusted the attack ankle on my 2016 RS rear wing. Maybe I should just put it back the way it was? I don't think that I have the ***** to find out if that aero trickery is really there working it's magic or not. I guess it must be but I don't think I'm ever gonna find out in this lifetime 
buy the Gurney flap and diffuser.
Unless Daytona LOL.
Aero to me is like camber on the track. I don’t see it, I don’t feel it.
I just feel more grip or less grip. It’s like driving new Tires VS old Tires.
It’s not so much that you take grip away from the front as it is that the front can’t keep up with the rear.
As CJ said, you can dial a lot out with bars, tire pressure and maybe he DSC box.
08-05-2018, 11:42 AM
#20
Intermediate
I promise max wing all the time is better.
buy the Gurney flap and diffuser.
Unless Daytona LOL.
Aero to me is like camber on the track. I don’t see it, I don’t feel it.
I just feel more grip or less grip. It’s like driving new Tires VS old Tires.
It’s not so much that you take grip away from the front as it is that the front can’t keep up with the rear.
As CJ said, you can dial a lot out with bars, tire pressure and maybe he DSC box.
08-06-2018, 11:51 AM
#22
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08-10-2018, 03:24 AM
#23
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That’s what I have.
Always max wing. Unless Daytona.
Also added diffuser to RS and Gurney.
i went to Daytona with new MPSC2 and Daytona camber settings but forgot to flatten the wing.
At full throttle and redline shifting the car just sat at 170 LOL. Oops, never broke 2:00.
Anyway, even with DSC box and a ton of rake and bar settings to dial out corner exit throttle understeer, it never really went away completely.
Then I went to 19” 295F and 345R.. and if you make 1 change to an RS do THAT.
With all the max downforce rear, I dropped the front 15mm and the rear 5mm but the big gain in speed also comes from the gigantic drop in center of gravity because the whole car goes down more then an inch I bet.
So fat front tires, lip on the asphalt under braking (I shaved off a few mm now) and the car is a dream to drive.
I can hang on the brakes all the way to the Apex where needed and stand on the throttle on the way out, all the while only keeping the rear under the car.
After that I changed the spring rates to the .2RS rates, I tested an entire day at sebring and I did have to go full soft on the sway bars front and rear.
I suspect the car is a little faster but need a cool day to verify.
But I’m 100% sure this is the setup that’s much faster on all normal tracks.
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Dundon Motorsports
Gig Harbor, WA
253-200-4454
jamie@dundonmotorsports.com
www.dundonmotorsports.com
Facebook.com/dundonmotorsports
Instagram @dundon_motorsports
08-10-2018, 08:54 AM
#24
Rennlist Member
No rubbing.
i do have CUP arms and Castor pucks.
cant find the numbers now, maybe I can find later, but I haven’t kept track well enough.
I would say if you take the Porsche document on ride height, then drop the rear 5mm and front 15mm it has to be close.
But it’s easy to find because the correct ride height is as low as it will go.
In the front I’ve shaved off about 5mm of the splitter, ducts and whatever else is low.
i do have CUP arms and Castor pucks.
cant find the numbers now, maybe I can find later, but I haven’t kept track well enough.
I would say if you take the Porsche document on ride height, then drop the rear 5mm and front 15mm it has to be close.
But it’s easy to find because the correct ride height is as low as it will go.
In the front I’ve shaved off about 5mm of the splitter, ducts and whatever else is low.