DMoore

This past weekend I attended the Porsche Festival of Speed in Fontana, CA at the Auto Club Raceway. A few months ago I had stainless steel braided brake lines (unsure of brand but think they were Spiegler) installed along with new Brembo rotors. Just a couple of weeks ago, I had some suspension work done. Front camber is now -3 degrees, with -2.8 in back.

Between installation and the Festival, I did a single day DE at Streets of Willow Springs - a fairly slow and benign track. Starting this past Friday, I was running the "roval" (road course + 1/2 of NASCAR oval) at Fontana. Friday was uneventful - 3 1/2 hr sessions. On the NASCAR portion of the track, I enter turn 1 at approx. 150 mph, drop to a slowest speed around 130, accelerate out to about 140, and then brake as hard as possible for turn 3, a left hand 90 degree turn into the infield. I think that's about 30-35 mph in the turn.

So. Saturday am, first session, 3rd lap - 1st lap of the day at full speed after warm up. As I'm braking for turn 3, brakes immediately feel wrong. Fortunately there's nobody in my way, and I go sailing past the turn and down the back straight (which we don't use) of the oval. Back in the pits, the inside of my right rear wheel is soaking wet. After some inspection, it becomes clear that the tire has rubbed on the brake line. A leak turned into a geyser under full pressure braking. Don't know how long it was rubbing before the line gave way.

Turn 3 is where cars exiting the pits blend into the track, and cars on track are braking heavily for the tight turn. There was nobody in front of me, but if there had been -- and cars are sometimes 3 abreast at that point - there could have been a collision with a closing speed in the vicinity of 100 mph. I have a roll bar, 6 pt Schroth harness, HANS device, and LWB seats, but I sure don't want to put them to this kind of a test.

The race shop that installed the brakes and lines in December happened to be there. That afternoon they towed my car to their shop, worked into the evening, fixed it, and sent me back to the track for Sunday. They ended up using zip ties as a keeper to prevent the line from getting close to the tire.

Yesterday - I received a bill from the shop for over $1000. I've had a discussion with their business manager and he's going to speak to the owner. We'll see how this develops.

At this stage my point is this: If you're driving a GT3 on a high-banked turn at high speed, where the combination of g-forces, suspension compression, and rear wheel steering all come into play, be aware. Do the mods to my car add to the problem? Quite possibly.

It was my bad luck that this happened, but my very good luck there were no other cars in front of me when it did. It seems apparent from posts in the GT4 forum that this is a known problem for them but I haven't found any references to that issue in this forum.

Folks - be careful out there!

DMoore
'15 GT3

GrantG

Sorry to hear. Had your stainless line been worn through or another soft line? Scary!

orthojoe

Why change your brake lines?
The only reason to run flexible braided lines is if you do brake work on your own and are looking for an easier way to get the calipers on and off. These cars are engineered VERY well. The more aftermarket parts you add, to more potential problems you add.
Thank goodness you and the car are ok!
Always look for a shop that is **** retentive and check for everything when they install parts. Rubbing should have been noted. Zip ties are not a legit solution

ipse dixit

If the shop recommended the braided brake lines, then it's on them to cover for any losses/damage to your car.

Very sorry to hear about what happened, but glad you are ok.

C.J. Ichiban

+1 to Joe.


This is not a civic. Shops shouldn't be trying to upsell you on braided lines it's a damn porsche

CobaltCr

The stock lines have a spiral wire protector that covers but is not fixed to the soft brake line. I used to wonder why the porsche engineers added something that appeared so useless. Now I know.

GT345

When you track your car... **** happens.

Every big track event I have ever been to, at least one thing happens to me that could of been really bad like hard breaking before a turn and there is coolant on the track, or someone spins out in front of me.

Hard to blame a shop for doing something to your car when you turn around and track it because those conditions are pretty harsh, and it is smart to talk to other GT3 owners before you let someone start wrenching on your car to see what they have done to their car.

As Joe said there really was no reason to change out the brake lines, just the fluid is all that is needed for higher temps.

Also sounds to me they went out of their way working through the evening to get your car back on the track so you can not expect them to work for free, but I hope you work something out with them that makes sense to both party's.

I was also at the event over the weekend, what color is your GT3?

Spyerx

911 desgn?

1000 for what?
Replacing s brake line a bleeding brakes and a tow?

GT345

On a GT3 replacing brake fluid alone can cost $300

Spyerx

If your shop is fisting you.
It's an hour of labor plus fluid.

GT345

That is the rates in Cali on a 991 GT3... The dealer will charge even more.

A dam oil change is $350 at the dealer, $300 at other shops, at least shops I trust working on my car.

Spyerx

I live in Cali
I drive a GT3rs on track 30+ days a year
I know what service costs on these cars, probably better than most
300+ for a brake flush is a fisting.
Btw my oil changes are near 300. But I run motul 300v at 20 something a liter.

mooty

i have found almost none aftermkt part to be better than Oem
Guards yes.
brk pads
but that's about it.

braided lines fail at much higher rate thanrubber.
race car that run those replace them often.

GT345

I also drive a RS, please tell me what you pay for a full brake fluid swap?

What year is your RS?

Also do they use a pwiz?

consolidated